Jump to content
SAU Community

Dump/front Pipes

Baz

By Baz,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Baz Experienced

Baz

Posted
Posted (edited)

Are split dump pipes any sort of advantage over the belmouth style pipes?

The way I see it is that the split pipe system is trying to retain the same effects as an external wastegated turbo in there design. But the way I see it, the only thing they do is cause further restriction by first off having a seperating bracket across the face of the flange which seperates it into its different piping which rejoins later on. In design having an open flowing tube would flow exhaust gases far easier.

So why would I spend another $100 buying a split dump system when a belmouth design seems far better? Prove me wrong.

Cheers,

Edited by Baz
Link to comment
Share on other sites
RANDY Veteran

RANDY

Posted
Posted

I don't have any proof on hand, but I've heard from several sources that the split system is better. The face of the flange already has two holes, so the other two on the dump pipe should line up and not create any additional resistance.

Come to think of it... someone is selling these in the "for sale" section. He put up figures of power output comparing the two systems, and some dyno sheets... have a look around there!

Link to comment
Share on other sites
xRHETTx Mentor

xRHETTx

Posted
Posted

Split is heaps better, provides a smoother path for the exhasust gases and means there isnt a massive amount of turbulence when the wastegate opens.

BATMBL sells them.

Get one, it'll be worth it.

Maybe do a search on this topic, it has been covered a few times, in a fair bit of detail.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

i went from a stock dump and stock front pipe to a batmbl 3" split dump and front pipe combo. i noticed a big difference in turbo spool up and also overall rsponse when on full song. it sounds a bit wooshier and your power brand gets bigger as it doesn't flood itself at the exhaust outlet

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Once the airbag is off, to remove the steering wheel.... Undo the 2 plugs into the clock spring, and the horn connector from it's clip. Hit the 19mm nut with a rattle gun (preferably) or if you don't' have one, you probably want an assistant to hold the wheel in place while you use a breaker bar to undo the nut Then, screw the nut back on 3 turns, and pull the wheel sharply towards you. If that doesn't work hit it medium force with a rubber mallet on either side, or possible behind if you can get there. If that all fails (it shouldn't!) you might need a steering wheel puller
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, to next task....the carbon fibre steering wheel was either an expensive factory option or a chinesium special. Either way, I don't like either the flat bottom or thick ring style, so it had to go So...to remove the steering wheel.... First, disconnect battery negative and stop on the brake pedal for a few seconds. Then, remove the small circular covers on each side of the wheel's rear surround to uncover the airbag clips. You need to push something like a flat bladed screw driver through, you need to push the steel clip inwards and pull the side of the airbag forward. Once you've done the easy side, same on the centre console side. You can see the tab you are shooting for circled in red Then, disconnect the horn spade connector and for the yellow airbag plug you need to get something small under the black locking tab to pop it out, then the connector releases......airbag is off  
    • alexburns
      Interior Light Problems

      By alexburns · Posted

      @99RS4just wondering if you ever took photos of the footwell lighting / how you bypassed the controller, im keen to haver footwell lighting come on when I open the doors too   
    • Duncan
      GReddy Injector Help!

      By Duncan · Posted

      Ultimately, if the tip is not far into the runner and the o-ring seals, then you are in business. Have you applied pressure to it as is? It is not really a problem for the injector to twist once it is bolted down, the oring seals it and you don't want it jambed into the oring too hard The plenum is intended to take multiple size lower injectors with different adapters, but the way you have it is fine if they seal.
    • RB25inside
      Compatible rear drive shafts R34 N/A?

      By RB25inside · Posted

      Are these the Dmax ones you are in reference too? https://justjap.com/collections/driveshafts-bearings/products/d-max-reinforced-replacement-rear-driveshaft-set-fits-nissan-s13-s14-s15-r32-r33-r34-c35#description Not a bad idea to get the uni flange ones. I have sent just jap an email too. Will see what they say lmao. Only thing is the Dmax ones are on a big back order. Low key anything will be better then my OEM ones I got as they are sounding like popcorn when I go under load lmao 😂☠️🪦.
×
×
  • Create New...