Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Dont know if anybody has done this on an rb25de . I now have most of the parts to make up a 2 x tb and 2 x afm setup . just waiting on a s/h manifold to arrive . Am going to cut off the side off the plenum where the single TB is , then weld on a 12 mm plate and mount the 2 x TBs on it . Then install seperate tubes to each of the AFMs . Electrically hooking up thru the apexi safc 2 which has provision for 2 x AFMs then converts signals back to a single feed signal to the ecu . Will keep you posted on progress .

presently i,m running a 68 mm tb , and its on a rb30de .

Edited by dondesoto
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/84884-2-x-afm-and-2-x-tb/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 72
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

less restriction, rb twin cam heads flow very very standard, what holds them up as with any NA engine is the ability to breath through the exhaust and intake system.

Very interested to see how this goes.. keep us posted

Sounds like a very good idea Don, are you going to do a dyno run before all this (would be keen to see your RB30DE results) as well as the changes the twin throttle bodies would make.

Eug

no wont be doing a dyno before , i use the test and tune nights at the drags to see how its running ( best 14.7 @ 93 mph ) . but i may put it on the dyno to get it fine tuned after i do the mods .

also waiting on an adjustable exhaust cam gear to fit as well , and still got to fit the 4.11 locked diff .

Edited by dondesoto
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
any reason for that Don? safc?

well this is the way i understand it .

with 2 x afm the output signals of the afms would be 1/2 that of just 1 x afm

the safc can accept 2 x input signals , then sends out 1 signal which is just an average of the 2 x inputs not adds them together .. so i still end up with just half the normal signal . the ecu would send the ammount of fuel to suit that signal , not enough .

well this is the way i understand it .

with 2 x afm the output signals of the afms would be 1/2 that of just 1 x afm

the safc can accept 2 x input signals , then sends out 1 signal which is just an average of the 2 x inputs not adds them together .. so i still end up with just half the normal signal . the ecu would send the ammount of fuel to suit that signal , not enough .

sounds logical.

Did you paint the the plenum with something?

well this is the way i understand it .

with 2 x afm the output signals of the afms would be 1/2 that of just 1 x afm

the safc can accept 2 x input signals , then sends out 1 signal which is just an average of the 2 x inputs not adds them together .. so i still end up with just half the normal signal . the ecu would send the ammount of fuel to suit that signal , not enough .

i see... that changes things a bit. are you opting for a larger diametre single pipe before the Y piece? what type of afm are you intending to use?

is this the case for gtr's? can anyone else shed some light on this.

its great to see you doing something different don, keep us posted!

hey. for the SAFC cant you tune it to run +or- 50% less/more fuel? so there for you should be able to tune it to run with more fuel to cater for the increased airflow? just hook it up to one afm and run 50% more fuel?

i can see the logical part of the thinkin that you will end up with half the signal of 1 AFM. there must be away around it either using resistors or somthing similar. otherwise just go for a aftermarket computer.

very nice work tho.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • The second part yes, the first part about easy VE calculation is something I've seen a few people talk about online.
    • You 100% could do that, would save money on a gym membership lol. But yeah, getting a cordless orbital sander will feel priceless coming from doing it manually.  Good luck with it mate
    • I initially was going to do the whole car with a block then realised, it would be a bigger monster of the job 😂 I guess that's all part of the learning process. I appreciate all that advice, I think I got a good idea on how to tackle this whole job.
    • I admire your efforts with the scuff pad.  As a mere mortal, I use this for the baulk of my sanding work- https://sydneytools.com.au/product/milwaukee-m18bos125-0-18v-li-ion-cordless-125mm-5-random-orbital-sander-skin-only Yes you can easily create a low spot while sanding. There are 2 types of filler, 1 part of 2 part. The 2 part filler will get used for large corrections and the 1 part filler will get used for pin holes and areas that only need slight filling.  Depending on how zealous you are with the sander (very easy to do with a power tool) or if you are chasing rust etc, yes those low spots will need to get filled or you will end up with a very obvious defects in the paint.  Using the guide coat and large sanding block, high and low areas will be revealed (watch youtube videos for a good visual on this). Its up to you if you think its worth the effort to make the car completely flat before you spray it (you make it flat by filling the low areas).  At the end of the day, it comes down to time. The end result comes from the level of prep put in to the car. If you want a perfect result, you have to put in the time during the prep stage or else it will be impossible to achieve a perfect result during the spraying process. 
×
×
  • Create New...