Pulling The Fuse To Make Rwd

[AlexCim]

Just wondering, the relay in the bonnet for the "4wd" is that the one that essentially controls the transfer of the power to the front wheels?

I dont want to pull the fuse to dyno/burnouts or anything, i just prefer a car with more bias to the rear. I dont always want to be 2wd, 4wd is handy. I understand that there will always be residual pressure in the front wheels, but, if i am just using the car normal street driving with the relay pulled, would that damage my central diff?

Another question, and i know this might sound stupid, but what is involved in permenently making my stagea 2wd? Meaning, is it difficult to totally remove the front drive line/central diff?

If i do cut power to the front, via the relay, will have help remove understeer under power when going around corners?

Thanks for any help.

[mcnamg]

it has been mentioned previously on here before i believe that the stagea like the r33 and r34 gtr have a slightly different awd system to the r32 gtr which does allow you to go into rwd but the others do not do this.

feel free to correct me if i am wrong

if you want more bias to the rear there is something that you can buy i dont know the name of it but sk or others will know its name that allows you to vary the torque from front to rear allowing you to have more power to the rears.

hope this helps

[AlexCim]

I know exactly what your talking about.

What i know of is that people pull the fuse for a few reasons. Burnouts, dyno runs etc. Things where the front wheels dont move at all.

I dont want to do things like that, i still want to drive around normally with the front wheels spinning, just no/miniumal power to them. The way i see it, there should be no wear on the central diff.

As for the controller, i know of it. TS Dancer its called, but it still doesnt transfer 0:100.

I was thinking that pulling the relay would be a cheaper way to get close to 5:95, but i just want to know if anyone KNOWS it will damage the car in any way?

[Al]

Not sure if Stagea is the same as a 33GTR, but a member in Vic pulled the fuse and didn't disconnect the front shaft, resulting in a stuffed transfer case. Still worked but he stated that it felt worn/sluggish afterwards, he obviously wasn't a happy man. This was done about 18 (if not more) months ago, it never was the same, so he just got it reco'ed recently.

[Sydneykid]

Let's atart off with some facts. Stageas don't understeer because they are 4wd. They understeer because Nissan designed the suspension system so that they would understeer, it's good for the Wallys.

The first job is to add some caster to the front, they don't have anywhere near enough. That fixes around 50% of the understeer. Then add some more rear anti roll, the rear stabiliser bar is too small by a lot. I added ~50% more anti roll to the front (24mm solid adjustable front stabiliser bar) and ~300% to the rear (24mm solid adjustable rear stabiliser bar).

Bingo, no more understeer.

Moving on to 4wd, all ATTESSA systems since 1994 have held residual hydraulic pressure on the clutch pack (there is no centre differential). Pulling the fuse or the relay simply stops the hydraulic pump from working. As long as you are not doing burnouts, dyno runs or drifting, this is not a problem for short periods of time. But the hydrailic fluid is not circulating (no pump remember) so the oil in the transfer case gets hotter and finally overheats. All of the components (clutch plates and intermediate plates) are still turning, they are still connected to the wheels and to the gearbox output shaft. So there is accelerated wear due to the extreme temperature.

You can buy an ATTESA controller (Duncan has them), which (even on 100% rear drive setting) still lets the hydraulic pump run and hence circulates the oil. But don't expect it to cure the understeer.

cheers

[muck]

i was just going thru the service manual for something else but i came across this it states there are 2 methods to change the drive mode to 2wd.

1. remove air evacuation connector, and depress teh brake pedal 5times within 10 seconds after placing the ignition switch to ON position. At the same time the 4WD warning lamp will flash in the meter panel (twice in a second) to indicate it is in 2WD mode. To return the vehicle drive mode to 4WD, place the ignition switch to OFF position and connect air evacuation connector.

2. remove front propellar shaft.

page 20 of the manual...

Edited August 23, 2005 by muck

[AlexCim]

Interesting, do you think this was a factory way to do it, or do you think that this is a bypass worked out by someone. By that i also mean, could it damage the driveline in a way?

Also, where is this air evacuation connector?

[Jay95R33]

The first methoud works well cause I tested it when I had my Stagea up on a hoist. I've posted pics and a how too somewhere, it was a while ago now though..

But when I had the car on the dyno I got them to pull the front shaft out just to be on the safe side. The last thing you want is a $3000 bill to replace the clutch packs

[muck]

Also, where is this air evacuation connector?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

it shows it on the lower right side of the instrument panel, i actually havent hunted for this.. do a search for the service manual....its hosted by some nice ppl on here

[Ska]

Yeah I had that thread bookmarked but with this new change to invision it doesnt work, but Jay has a great howto for doing this, which also explains that it should not be done for long periods of time.

I personally would love to be able to do this when I take my beast out on some skidpans, but is not worth the potential damage it might do.