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Skyline Paint Codes

raz0r$harP.UK

By raz0r$harP.UK,
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ylwgtr2 Grand Master

ylwgtr2

Posted
Posted

hi nismo 400....it makes absolutely no diffrence what brand you use as to wether the colour is right as a good painter will adjust the colour anyway....i say this as there would most likely have been old repairs on the car or the paint could be faded aged ect.....therefore the colour would need to be tuned up....and just for the recod...the factory use a hi bake system were as all panel shops use low bake....hi bake paint will not cure unless used in a hi bake set up

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png godzilla Enthusiast

png godzilla

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nismo400,

like ylwgtr2 said it doesen't really matter what brand you use. some manufacturers have alternate chips for some colors where there is a known variance of shading from the factory, some colors actually have up to 6 variatons of the parent color code, but any reputable paint supplier should be able to come up with a "to the naked eye" perfect match.

even if they can't there are clears available that can trick the eye using light refraction to hide repairs that may be a shade or so out.

90% of all repairs & touch ups are using materials that are not what the factory used to paint the car anyway. Factory or OEM products (original Equipment Manufacturers) are different to the aftermarket crash repair coatings anyway. most vehicle manufacturers use baths for primer & Positive/negative charges to get a uniform micron build of primer on a production line. then most these days are using Waterborne technology (yes waterbased) top coats, these unlike our well known 2K, COB's & acrylics require large volumes of airflow to cure, not baked in an oven as we commkonly see. Although i am told that some repair shops in Australia are now set up for this waterborne (Aquabase) technology.

thevilworld, KR4 has a metalic flake, so your options are Acrylic or COB. Acrylic is old technology, needs lots of coats to get coverage & uses a 1K Clear over metalics, it's needs to have the C ra p buffed out of it & will loose shine quickly. if you can afford to, stay away from it!

COB (Clear Over Base) is a modified acrylic, much better coverage & color matchability & uses a 2K (2 Pack) clear over the top. a good painter will get a shine straight off the gun, no need for buffing & the coating will be durable & last for years..................Go COB, for the extra cost it is a far better prospect!

find a reputable repairer & talk to them.

ylwgtr2 Grand Master

ylwgtr2

Posted
Posted
nismo400,

like ylwgtr2 said it doesen't really matter what brand you use. some manufacturers have alternate chips for some colors where there is a known variance of shading from the factory, some colors actually have up to 6 variatons of the parent color code, but any reputable paint supplier should be able to come up with a "to the naked eye" perfect match.

even if they can't there are clears available that can trick the eye using light refraction to hide repairs that may be a shade or so out.

90% of all repairs & touch ups are using materials that are not what the factory used to paint the car anyway. Factory or OEM products (original Equipment Manufacturers) are different to the aftermarket crash repair coatings anyway. most vehicle manufacturers use baths for primer & Positive/negative charges to get a uniform micron build of primer on a production line. then most these days are using Waterborne technology (yes waterbased) top coats, these unlike our well known 2K, COB's & acrylics require large volumes of airflow to cure, not baked in an oven as we commkonly see. Although i am told that some repair shops in Australia are now set up for this waterborne (Aquabase) technology.

thevilworld, KR4 has a metalic flake, so your options are Acrylic or COB. Acrylic is old technology, needs lots of coats to get coverage & uses a 1K Clear over metalics, it's needs to have the C ra p buffed out of it & will loose shine quickly. if you can afford to, stay away from it!

COB (Clear Over Base) is a modified acrylic, much better coverage & color matchability & uses a 2K (2 Pack) clear over the top. a good painter will get a shine straight off the gun, no need for buffing & the coating will be durable & last for years..................Go COB, for the extra cost it is a far better prospect!

find a reputable repairer & talk to them.

do they still make acrylic?:D as far as aquabase goes there is nothing special with it as all it is is the base coat thats waterbase....its been out for quite some time and there was lots of hype when it first came out ...but its really not that great....same booth and equipment/drying times ect...and i think you guys will find that 1lt of COB basecoat wouldnt be that far off the cost of acrylic anyway....its just that with acrylic you put acrylic clear over it and COB basecoat requires 2K and thats where the cost diffrence will be....and just to clarify for those that dont know....all mettalic colours require clear....acrylic or COB Base coat

ylwgtr2 Grand Master

ylwgtr2

Posted
Posted

oh and i would strongly disagree with the coverage comment....COB covers shithouse...i always use colour build primer and put a ground coat down for metallic's...altho my main traffic these days is motorcycle colours which this is mandatory as they are candie's and translucent colours....big headache!

png godzilla Enthusiast

png godzilla

Posted
Posted
oh and i would strongly disagree with the coverage comment....COB covers shithouse...i always use colour build primer and put a ground coat down for metallic's...altho my main traffic these days is motorcycle colours which this is mandatory as they are candie's and translucent colours....big headache!

Totally agree with the ground coats, tinted primers & value shade primers.

but acrylic laquer is Henry Ford technology & there is no reason to use "Old" technology these days.

hi-build, LE (low Emmission) products are the way to go. (2K, COB & PU)

Then of course there are COB's & there are COB's, we have 2 on our system, same brand, different pricing, different qualities & coverage to suit different markets.

try & get a "warranty repairer status" using acrylic................it just won't happen, they won't go near you with acrylic.

I wouldn't let anyone near my pride & joy with Acrylic (my own personal oppinion of course)

If you want acrylic, go & buy a rattle can from the Hardware shop!

ylwgtr2 Grand Master

ylwgtr2

Posted
Posted
Hi guys.

i want to get my rocker covers painted in the same colour as my car.

Will the same paint work under the bonnet because the rocker covers are exposed to a degree of heat or do i have to take it to some professional?

2k or COB 2 k is fine for valve covers

Fastrotor Proficient

Fastrotor

Posted
Posted

I've got KH2 K on my plate

The KH2 is gunmetal grey, (which i figured looking at paint) .. But does the extra "K" two spaces after it on same line mean anything extra ???

Thanks for help

Gary

  • 2 months later...
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png godzilla Enthusiast

png godzilla

Posted
Posted
KL0 - Spark Silver Metallic

hey, is this the stock silver for a 1996 series 2 r33?, does have matallic in it. just about to respray, anyone know? thanx

Sure Does, plenty in fact................go Clear over Base (color & 2K Clear) :)

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