Jump to content
SAU Community

4th Gear


Recommended Posts

Guest EVL-R33

hey ppl, recently when changin to 4th gear from high revs from either 2nd or 3rd my 4th gear keeps crunching for no reason i know its something wrong but i just wanna see if anyone would know the problem or experience it b4,

At the start it would crunch really hard and not go in, now after 2 weeks it goes in but still crunchs softly, it needs fixing a.s.a.p i just got back from my holiday and its time to get it done...

thank you..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8497-4th-gear/
Share on other sites

Mine does it on 4th as well. I just figured the synchro was on it's way out and am living with it. If you're just cruising then try and match the revs to the gear when you're changing up into 4th. If you don't know what i mean, try pulling the shifter 'against' the gate into 4th when you change up with your foot on the clutch instead of just forcing it in. You'll find that as the revs of the engine match the revs of the flywheel, it will just go in by itself.

I don't know if this makes any sense at all but I hope it helps. It's just like riding a motorbike. I hardly ever use the clutch on up-changes. All I do is put a little bit of pressure on the shifter with my toe and back off the revs slightly so it clicks into gear.

Good Luck

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8497-4th-gear/#findComment-123715
Share on other sites

There was a similar thread a while back on SDU i think and from memory they suggested a good oil change with a stick of Nulon GE70 (i think that's what it was), drive nicely for 500kms then see if it still crunches when giving it a bit of welly.

I haven't tried this so dunno if it makes a difference.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8497-4th-gear/#findComment-124102
Share on other sites

The shockproof oils will definately help, they should lessen any additional strain on the synchros and reduce the crunching noise. It is not however going to fix the problem, therefore I think that saving up to replace the synchro might be a good idea. At the same time get them to check the whole box, if one synchro is going then the box may be on it's way out.

See'ya :burnout:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8497-4th-gear/#findComment-124195
Share on other sites

The problem with the syncro's is sometimes an issue with the oil being too slippery and not slowing the shaft down before changing.

Nissan did an upgrade to the GTR boxes which had the same problem but cost about 2K for parts alone.

I have solved the problem on 3 x Nissan boxes so far for about $100-$120 by using Redline Lightweight Shockproof oil ( blue smurf ).

Is amazing stuff and ask Micko who will vouch how well it is still going.

Ken

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8497-4th-gear/#findComment-124242
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

I got it from CRD in silverwater. Bloody expensive @ about $100, but cheaper than pulling out the gearbox and reconditioning it :;

I don't think its a permanent fix, the gearbox still baulks at a quick change, but the crunching is gone and the motion is smoother. Thumbs up from me.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8497-4th-gear/#findComment-143625
Share on other sites

Originally posted by benm

Dumb question but where and how do u replace gearbox oil ? Anyone got any pics of exactly where it goes ?

On the bottom ot the box there's a plug, undo that to drain then plug back up. On the drivers side of the box, there's another plug. Open and fill up until it starts pouring out a little.

Duncan, you bum!:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8497-4th-gear/#findComment-144976
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know this one’s the BB one. My tuner did make mention about the actuator. I am curious about the VCT as well
    • Might also needs a stronger actuator with the right preloading. With older 2019 built bush G3 units, BB upgrade or 21U housing down size makes a pretty decent gain in response as well. 
    • Hey lads  so im finally putting together my rb30 forged bottom end and ran into an issue. I measured my main bearing clearance with arp main studs torqued to 60 ft-lbs using ACL H series STD size bearings and standard, un-ground crank shaft journals and got an oil clearance reading of about 1.3 thou measuring straight up and down and about 2.8 thou measuring at a 45 degree angle (just above and below the parting line). My machine shop said they measured the main tunnel and it was all within spec (they didnt say the actual measurement) and to go with a standard size bearing, which i have done and the clearance is too tight, I'm guessing because of the extra clamping force from the arp studs distorting the main tunnel. I was wanting to run about 2.5 thou main bearing clearance.  My questions are: 1. could i just use the HX extra 1 thou clearance ACL bearings? that would fix my straight up and down clearance making it about 2.3 thou, but then would the side to side clearance be too big at around 3.8 thou? 2. what actually is the recommended main bearing clearance for measuring near the parting line / side to side. i know its supposed to be bigger as the bearing has some eccentricity built into it but how much more clearance should there be compared to the straight up and down measurement? at the moment there is about 1.5thou difference, is that acceptable or should it be less? 3. If i took the engine block + girdle back to the machine shop and got them to line bore the main tunnel (like i told them to do the first time, but they said it didnt need it) what bearing size would i buy? the STD size bearing shells already slide in fairly easily with no real resistance, some even falling out if i tip the girdle up-side-down. If im taking material out of the main tunnel would i need a bearing with extra material on the back side to make up for it? this is probably confusing af to read so if something doesn't make sense let me know and ill try explaining in a different way. My machine shop doesn't come back from christmas break until mid January, hence why i'm asking these questions here. TIA for any help or info 
    • I bought the model back in Japan in Feb. I realised I could never build it, looked around for people who could build it, turns out there's some very skilled people out there that will make copies of 1:1 cars or near enough. I'm not really a photo guy... but people were dragging me in a group chat for the choice of bumper as someone else saw the car before it was finished as they are also a customer of that shop. I took the photo in the above post because I was pretty confident that the lip would work wonders for it. Here's some more in-progress and almost-done pics. It gives a good enough idea as to what the rear looks like!   I have also booked in a track day at the end of January. Lets all hope that is nothing but pure fun and games. If it's not pure fun and games, well, I've already got half an engine spare in the cupboard 
    • Well, do ya, punk? Seriously though, let's fu<king go! The colour and kit looks amazing on the car. Do you have any shots from the rear? I don't quite follow how the model came around. You bought the white kit and he modified it to match your car? Looks nuts either way!
×
×
  • Create New...