How To Tell If Bushes Are Stuffed?

[eXc]

Guys,

How can I tell if my bushes are stuffed?

What bushes are there that I can change myself, and needs to go to a shop? (ie. requires a press or something)

I can't feel any movement in any of the bushes, I can't see any sign of wear. But my rear end is loose while driving.

Below is a thread where I am discussing my problem, however I thought a new thread for the bush checking would be good as I couldn't find a thread elswhere, I am sure others will find it useful too.

Cheers

Chris

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...20#entry1538236

Edited August 23, 2005 by eXc

[Sydneykid]

Guys,

How can I tell if my bushes are stuffed?

What bushes are there that I can change myself, and needs to go to a shop? (ie. requires a press or something)

I can't feel any movement in any of the bushes, I can't see any sign of wear. But my rear end is loose while driving.

Below is a thread where I am discussing my problem, however I thought  a new thread for the bush checking would be good as I couldn't find a thread elswhere, I am sure others will find it useful too.

Cheers

Chris

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...20#entry1538236

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Look at the bushes for signs of wear, frayed edges, ripped sides, crooked crush tubes etc

Check for leaks, some bushes are filled with fluid.

Get large screw driver and lever the bushes, check for smooth, even movement front to rear and side to side. Not floppy or jammed.

Loose rear end could be HICAS, it is not your friend.

cheers

[nsta]

I have hicas, and yes loose rearend (r33 25t coupe), but for the most time it never is an issue, only at the limits the loose rearend is vicious so much that its very hard to get back right, would a hicas lock be something i should look into?

[ferni]

HICAS would be worth looking at - get rid of it and put a lock bar on.... At the limits is when HICAS is most dangerous. Your on the limit around a corner, tyres are struggling for traction and your HICAS suddenly decides 'hey im going to turn the wheels 1 degree' when on the edge thats enough to make you loose it....

[eXc]

Thanks SK. I'll see if I can work it out.

There aren't any leaks. I will check the other things you suggsted. I'm not sure what you meant by levering the bushes. I'll try to get to the car and see what you meant. Will probably make more sense when I am there. I assume you mean to lever the arms etc that the bushes are in?

I just got hit with the flu, so it's made it so I can't work on the car

Cheers

Chris

[Sydneykid]

Thanks SK. I'll see if I can work it out.

There aren't any leaks. I will check the other things you suggsted. I'm not sure what you meant by levering the bushes. I'll try to get to the car and see what you meant. Will probably make more sense when I am there. I assume you mean to lever the arms etc that the bushes are in?

I just got hit with the flu, so it's made it so I can't work on the car

Cheers

Chris

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Yep, stick a big screw driver in between the moveable part (radius rod, control arm etc) and an imoveable bit (chassis, sub frame etc) and work the bush around.

cheers

[eXc]

cool. Thanks. I'll try it when I get better.

In the mean time I am trying to source a HICAS lock bar to throw it on so I can cross it off the list of possibilities

[Duncan]

Assuming your car is 10-15yo, its prety safe to say your bushes are stuffed

[predator]

yup.. they're all shagged by that stage.. every single one, and japs don't replace them.

I have got a few replaced, but its an expensive job to get them all done at once.

Castor rod bushes in mine improved some large steering shake and general steering response.. rear hicas ends improved rear end stability.. front control arm bushes seemed to have improved steering feel through there and general feel.. Still got quite a few to go though.

eXc.. just as an indicator, if you got them ALL replaced at the same time, you'd probably looking at *around* the $2000 mark (including labour). You will save by getting them all done at once in the long run.

But that is a lot of money to spend at one time I agree, but if u want to keep your car for a while, and really wind the power up it will help you out and guy scratching his head thinking "why is this guy's car so fast?".. its the small things often that make a difference. But depends what you're into.. maybe if its just for drift bushes aren't as important as say track work or other events (but i don't know much about drift)

[eXc]

eXc.. just as an indicator, if you got them ALL replaced at the same time, you'd probably looking at *around* the $2000 mark (including labour). You will save by getting them all done at once in the long run.

Yeah, I just don't have that. Plus I am considering selling it at the end of the year and getting a dedicated drifter.

I am still sick and havn't had the chance to check it out.

Thanks for all the help guys

[eXc]

ok, so I got it to a shop.

Front Control Arm inner and outer are gone. On One side,

Front Control Arm inner are gone on the other side.

Sway bar bushes front and back are gone.

Rear left Strut bush gone.

Bowers (local suspension people) Quoted me the following with SuperPro parts.

SPF1659K - Control Arm Kit Upper Inn/OUt Nissan - $413.60

SPF1483K - Bush Kit 200sx F C/Arm - $188.40

SPK2092BK - Bkit 8 Sway Bar Link Square - $25.50

SPF0903K - Kit 8 Univ S/Bar Link Bush (small) - $24.90

They didn't quote the rear shock rubber..I don't know why.

Can anyone tell me what the Whiteline equivilent is, and it it's worth it? SuperPro are also on the Whilteline site, are they one company?

KCA336 - Front Camber Adj Kit - Uppr C/arm - Is this inner or outer or both?

Cheers

Chris

[Duncan]

Check out the Noltec stuff http://www.noltec.com.au/ better prices than the whiteline gear and pretty much comparable. Those Nissan prices you quoted are apalling

[gts4diehard]

hi, a really easy check to do on rear end is to simply jack it up, support on stands and check each wheel for movement. Grab rear wheel at 1/4 to 3 loc (horizontal at hub centre) and try to turn the wheels(as the hicas would).

If you get any movement at all the bushes are worn, most likely the rear rack components, and quite possibly most of the rear hub bushes. I have seen this in my own GTS4 and a friends GTR, the GTR had atleast 5mm of movement - just rocking wheel as above by hand, and now with new hub and rear arms you can feel NO movement at all.

Of course it is not cheap, about $1000, if you remove hubs and get someone else to press bushes.PLus another $250 for hicas lock bar. Most of the 'wiggle' in the back end will be taken care of just replacing the bushes without the hicas lock bar.

[predator]

Those prices would be for the complete replacement control arms I would say, which include the bushes (one unit). I had to replace one on the gtst and it was $200 from nissan..

Rear shock rubber? you mean strut top?

Or do you mean the bottom eyelet? Depends on the shocks, but generally I would have thought you would just replace the shocks themselves..

[eXc]

Predator - Bottom Eyelet I guess...sorry I don't know names of parts

I will check out noltec.

Prices listed above were bushes only. not replacement arms ! I have found on garage 13 $175 for control arms with bushes...

[eXc]

Does anyone have photos of adjustable control arm bushes?

What happens if you put them in at the wrong place the first time. Can you move them? Or are you screwed?

I just pulled out the control arms, and the bushes look almost impossible to replace. I don't see how you could adjust them once you put the new ones in ??

Cheers

Chris

Edited September 2, 2005 by eXc

[eXc]

bump

[Duncan]

The adjustable bushes are eccentric, the bolt does not go through the middle. When you turn the bolt it locks into the bush and turns it at the same time. So, if you have the bolt say nearest to the arm you have maximum camber, and if you turn the bolt 180o you get minimum camber.

no problems adjusting it once it is in

[eXc]

The adjustable bushes are eccentric, the bolt does not go through the middle.  When you turn the bolt it locks into the bush and turns it at the same time.  So, if you have the bolt say nearest to the arm you have maximum camber, and if you turn the bolt 180o you get minimum camber.

no problems adjusting it once it is in

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Interesting, I called noltec and they said once they are in you can't adjust?

Perhaps whiteline are different.

[Cubes]

As a comparison I was quoted $500 to replace and fit L/R front radius rod bushes & L/R front upper control arm bushes.

I am going to to them myself as I have a friend with a press.

Its not difficult to do, just be sure to tighten up the bushes with load on them, i.e not with it jacked up. Obviously tighten them up slightly when jacked up but not completely super tight.

Edited September 7, 2005 by Cubes