Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Importing from NZ is exactly the same as importing from Japan.

You have 3 options:

1/ SEVS....there was a small gap in dates before Nissan released the 200sx in Aus, so if it was built in those dates and someone has compliance you can bring it in. It will need to be returned to standard for compliance. About $5k ish.

2/ Personal import. If you have owned it overseas for 12 months and can prove it you can bring it in as is. Just pay rego under $1k

3/ Race/Rally import. You can bring it in as is but can only drive it to and from events, practice and workshops. Just pay rego under $1k

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/85094-need-help/#findComment-1540807
Share on other sites

Importing from NZ is exactly the same as importing from Japan.

You have 3 options:

1/ SEVS....there was a small gap in dates before Nissan released the 200sx in Aus, so if it was built in those dates and someone has compliance you can bring it in.  It will need to be returned to standard for compliance.  About $5k ish.

2/ Personal import.  If you have owned it overseas for 12 months and can prove it you can bring it in as is. Just pay rego under $1k

3/ Race/Rally import. You can bring it in as is but can only drive it to and from events, practice and workshops. Just pay rego under $1k

thnx for ur reply

what do u mean by standrad as in i even have to change the body kit and the hood and all engine moods? because i know people who have imoprted and have it registered with bodykits and some mods on there cars

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/85094-need-help/#findComment-1540872
Share on other sites

According to the DOTARS website, the S15 was sold locally to the Australian market from September 2000. This means that the only ways you can bring in a 2001 S15 are Personal Import, and Race / Rally..SEVS is not an option for you.

Just remember for Personal Import the car has still to meet the registration requirements of the state you are in. Things like the bonnet pins, the height of the car and carbon bonnet (from what I can see) may be a problem for you.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/85094-need-help/#findComment-1542206
Share on other sites

According to the DOTARS website, the S15 was sold locally to the Australian market from September 2000. This means that the only ways you can bring in a 2001 S15 are Personal Import, and Race / Rally..SEVS is not an option for you.

Just remember for Personal Import the car has still to meet the registration requirements of the state you are in. Things like the bonnet pins, the height of the car and carbon bonnet (from what I can see) may be a problem for you.

can u import a WRX STI under sevs?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/85094-need-help/#findComment-1545288
Share on other sites

No, only as race/rally or personal import.

S15 you can if it was made before/after? Sept 2000, as Duncan said there is a small window. They were available in Japan before or after they were started/discountinued here. I forget which way around it is, we either got S15's a little later than Japan started selling them, or when Nissan Oz stopped selling them here, they were still available in Japan. One of the two :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/85094-need-help/#findComment-1545345
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I agree that delayed payment probably isn't the most suitable solution. It seems a solid complete transaction would be best. As I wouldn't be using this sale as a line of credit that would typically earn interest, we can probably arrange a much cleaner single transaction deal. I can do $92.52 today. Would you prefer EFT, or Cash on Pickup?  😛
    • Oh man what a deal.... Funny enough (well not really) I sold a car to some old dude (buying for his Daughter) on a Saturday, He asked if she could take the car now and pay me the money on Monday as the bank wasn't open. Needless to say I told them to come back with the cash or get f**ked! Luckily the money seemed to magically appear in his pocket a few minutes later, so it all ended well (for me).
    • Gucci bags tend to hold their value well, so someone’s definitely going to get a nice find here.
    • @Ozdavroz Not going to get a better deal than that. Cash up front and ongoing payments. 🤑
    • I wouldn't even move it like gTSBoy is saying. I'd seriously do what Duncan is saying. Unplug the injectors, and unplug the fuel pump.  Pull the spark plugs out. Have a look in quickly with a bore scope if you want. At most, you can't spray a bit of oil into the bores so there is lubricant in there while you crank it. (Don't fill it, as it's only going to enter the exhaust, or spit at you out the spark plugs holes. Before cranking the engine on the starter, after a 5 year sit I'd probably prime the oil system manually. Easiest way to do so is to look at buying an oil filter relocation block, fit it to the engine. The pressure line going into the engine on this block you can then shove into some sort of oil pump, or put it into a bottle, with that hose going to the bottom. Fill bottle up with oil. Now seal the bottle and add a compressed air line to the top of the bottle. Feed compressed air in, about 20psi will be PLENTY. This will pump oil through the motor. Be aware, it also means it will drain back to the sump, so make sure you don't end up over filling the motor Now bolt the old oil setup back on (or fully install the remote filter system).   This way you've at least pushed fresh oil everywhere, then you're letting the motor crank to then do its own oiling. Then I'd tap the key to make sure it can start to crank, if the motor free bumps, then I'd just hit the key and let it crank. After letting it crank and seeing you can get real engine oil pressure, put new spark plugs in, reconnect the fuel system electrics, and send it.   Additionally, you can look to remove the fuel feed line to the rail, and divert it to a tank so you can get the bottom of the tank shit out, and just incase there's some crud sitting anywhere that gets passed the fuel filter (or is already ahead of it).   If fuel injection at the injectors ends up appearing to be a problem, you can dump the injectors into an ultrasonic cleaner for a quick flush clean out. Note this isn't as good as new injectors, or getting them pro cleaned and flowed    
×
×
  • Create New...