Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Contact Details: [email protected] or ring me on 0400-77-99-78

Hi there, im sure most of you know the story. As a resolution a replacement vehicle from J-Land is on the way for me - I'm all smiles and credit the import company for their professionalism and efficiency shown in the matter. As for this beast it is time to split her up and move on..

I have attempted to list everything that I can think of, if there is something that I have failed to mentioned that your chasing please let me know. Photo's are easily provided for those with genuine interest. I do not mind sending via COD providing a small deposit is made into my account. Cheers!

Engine bay and Driveline

RB26DETT motor complete with factory turbochargers, loom, factory ECU and HKS FCON computer $6000

RB26DETT gearbox $1100

R32 GTR rear diff and cradle **SOLD**

HKS Twin air pods (needs new filters) $100

HKS ATTKD Intercooler piping for no AFM setup $150

R32 GTR Radiator $200

R32 GTR Fuse Box $80

R32 GTR Tail shaft $200

100mm Intercooler with decent sized dent **SOLD**

Air Condenser and Compressor $200

R32 GTR Fuel pump $100

R32 GTR Fuel tank $80

Suspension related

R32 GTR 16" wheels (need a clean and some decent rubber) $700

R32 GTR Complete set of calipers and cross drilled rotors (not willing to seperate) $700

R32 GTR Hubs $100 each

R32 GTR Rear Sway bar **SOLD**

Interior parts

R32 GTR Front seats $700 **SOLD**

R32 GTR Rear seats $350

R32 GTR Dash with no bubbles $200

R32 GTR Dash with clock $150 **PENDING SALE**

R32 GTR Centre console surround $100 **PENDING SALE**

R32 GTR Instrument cluster with 73,000km's $100 **SOLD***

R32 GTR Air conditioner console $200

R32 GTR Centre console gauges $100 **SOLD**

R32 GTR Steering wheel $100

R32 GTR Door trims $100 each

R32 GTR Rear trims $80 each

Body parts

R32 GTR Bonnet in white with latch $550

R32 GTR Grill (one clip broken) $100

R32 GTR Driver side fender in white $250

R32 GTR Passenger side fender in white $250

R32 GTR Front Bumper in white with N1 slots and lip $400 **PENDING SALE**

R32 GTR Rear Bumper in white $250 **SOLD**

R32 GTR Driver side door $250

R32 GTR Passenger side door $250

R32 GTR Boot with factory spoiler $250

R32 GTR Driver and Passenger windows $50 each

R32 GTR Front headlights $100 each

R32 GTR Indicators $150

R32 GTR Electronic mirrors in white $70 each

I don't know the story so what's the go with the car, did it get damaged in transit?

Do you have the body shell and full wiring harness as this is what I am interested in???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/85157-sold/#findComment-1543646
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...