Safc Install In R32 / R33 Gts-t

[STAGE-A]

technically probably yes, but ive just done this bout 2 weeks ago and also an eboost2 today and didnt disconnect the battery ...no probz

[4DoorWhore]

whats the conversion rwkw to rwhp??

[d00dz]

whats the conversion rwkw to rwhp??

1kw = 1.341022... HP

1HP = 0.7456999... kw

[Munkyb0y]

so then what's the guesstimated conversion from flywheel kw to rear wheel kw ?

[4DoorWhore]

1kw = 1.341022... HP

1HP = 0.7456999... kw

thanks

[performance-wise]

technically probably yes, but ive just done this bout 2 weeks ago and also an eboost2 today and didnt disconnect the battery ...no probz

Did you install this in your stagea?

Is the wiring positions and or colours the same as in predators guide?

[mad082]

so then what's the guesstimated conversion from flywheel kw to rear wheel kw ?

if the car is stock then you can generalise that rwhp is about the same as flywheel kw. on a skyline the gearbox takes out about 40-50kw, but its hard to be sure.

[MotoMan]

Just thought id say i used this guide today to install a SAFC2 into my series 2 R33

Wires are completely different colours.. but the locations are all the same..

Fairly easy to do this install

and saved myself $150

cheers

[AKW]

I love this thread BUT I have an issue. My AFM pin is NOT THERE. Yes, I am looking at it the right way as well. I have a 1995 Series 1.5 R33 GTS25T. Any ideas? The pin is f**king missing! But that makes no sense it wouldn't work without a signal! As well, it is the stock ECU!

[Ultimategtr]

hey man, would this work sweet installing a SAFC Neo on my R33 25t? im doing it in a few weeks

[Koshi]

Hey great post,

Just wondering what kinda of power gains did you get from the SAFC when you got it tuned. And also did you notice any gains in fuel economy?

My automatic GTS-T, original base line dyno with breathing mods ran 16:1 and made 195 rwhp.. lol... yeah damn lean.  After we retuned it to 8psi and 13:1, with no low throttle map. It did 272 rwhp and 265 tq, which is a day and night differance.

As for economy, driving hard i do get terrible milage and run extremely rich (due to no lo thrt map) and get about 15 mpg. Passive driving is not a problem though and i average around 20 mpg.

[boostn0199]

SAFC / SAFC2 Install

Tools Required:

1. Wire Cutters / Strippers

2. Crimping tool

3. Bullet connectors (I used 4mm, but if doing again I'd probably use 3mm)

4. Philips head screwdriver

This is on R32 GTS-T, but the wiring process /pins are exactly the same for R33.

I bought 2nd hand a slightly older SAFC bluescreen (not SAFC II). Really the wiring is pretty much identical, except for the addition of the knock sensor wires in the SAFC2 (see SAFC2 install manual diagram N4-c on www.apexi.com site for details). All else goes in same place.

BEGIN

Firstly, locate your ECU. This is just in the passenger footwell, behind a plastic panel. There is about 3 screws on the outside, and then the cover should pull off. You might have to slightly pull up the plastic door rub strip.

To properly access the ECU, you'll have to undo I think 2 extra bolts, one up top left, and one at the bottom, which brackets to the ECU. You should then be able to pull it out, with the loom still attached.. You will probably see a clear plastic cover over most of the wiring, which can be pulled off with a flathead screwdriver to get access to the wiring. See below:

Now you should have access to all the wires that you will need to modify to install the SAFC.

NOTE that i am referring to all pins as it is sitting in that photo (from the top – nissan sticker up).. the SAFC install manual assumes you are looking directly AT the plug from the front. With the loom the way it is, its much easier to work with it facing AWAY from you)

MAIN AIR FLOW (AFM) WIRE

Now you will need to find the airflow meter signal wire. This is the main one that you are feeding into the SAFC, and what allows the SAFC to do its magic.

Basically AFM voltage goes into SAFC, modified values are put out for different RPM & throttle positions.. and modified air flow voltage goes to the ECU.

It should be a BLACK wire, and with the ECU facing up as shown, should be 7 pins to the LEFT of the main centre bolt (looking from top). That doesn't necessarily mean 7 *wires* as not all wires are attached to pins (depending on factory options), so count out on the plug itself. Here you can see it in my fingers.

So carefully chop it through, and strip back about 5mm of the plastic using the wire strippers.

Now its up to you how you want to connect it. I used crimp bullets (shown below), so that I could easily unplug it at anytime and go back to factory quickly (hmm, wonder why). You may choose to solder the wires to the SAFC harness instead, but I liked the bullet idea for ease of removal.

** NOTE: If you have the choice, I'd probably go for a slightly different style of bullet than those crimp ones I had sitting around. The ones that you fold the ends over the wire then squeeze down are better.. as these give a stronger connection **

So what you need to do, is bullet on a male and female version on each end at the factory setup. And on the SAFC to the IN (white) and OUT AFM wires (yellow), a male and female as well. But make sure you get the SAFC IN and OUT correct via male->female.. so IN (engine side) is coming FROM AFM to SAFC (white), and OUT (yellow) is going TO the ecu. Make sure the connections are tight on the wires, and give them a good tug to make sure the connectors are not going to come off easily.

The dirtiest way is to twist wires together and wrap in electrical tape, and I know you can be tempted to save a few dollars. I'd recommend against that at all costs, as its slightly possible for the wires to come apart later. If this happens while the car is under full steam, an AFM cutout could quickly destroy your engine. This wouldn't be pretty.

So connect up the bullets and they should go nicely fit together. We have FROM AFM (loom side), to SAFC Input on SAFC... then SAFC output on SAFC goes direct to ECU.

Thats it for the most important part.. the rest are really splice wires, which means they tap off the existing loom wiring for the SAFC (read only), rather than totally create a new connection.

TACHO/RPM signal

This is what the SAFC reads to show you the nice ricey RPM display. This is 4 pins to the RIGHT of the centre screw (looking from top), and is yellow/red stripey. Now we need to tap the SAFC green wire into this wire.

What you need to do, is get the wire strippers, and pierce the plastic of the wire...And then pull back this insulation, without cutting through the actual wire core itself. Then you need to wrap the SAFC loom wire around the core wire several times to create a connection.

(photo shown except bottom one aren't actual rpm wire)

Effectively you are creating a "T" junction off the wire to read the signal, but not effect its normal operation to the ECU.

There is no easy way to tell if you have made a good connection at this point with everything off, so wait until everything else is hooked up. If the SAFC doesn't seem to be reading/displaying any RPM values when you have finished, you know which connection to check.

THROTTLE signal

Exactly as above, we need to tap into this one.. this is 8 pins to the RIGHT of the connector (from top) on the 2nd row and is WHITE. T in your grey from SAFC into this. This is basically your "foot to the floor" meter.. and shows you how much the throttle butterfly is open as you are accelerating.

IG Power

This powers the SAFC, and gives power when the ignition is on. This is 19pins to the LEFT of the connector, 2nd row down (2nd pin from the end). It is a black and white striped wire.

Bridge in as above, using the red wire of the SAFC.

KNOCK signal 1 & 2

This is for S-AFC2 only, and allows knock readings to be checked, to aid in tuning and monitoring. If you have an S-AFC2, knock#1 is 3 pins to the LEFT, and kock#2 is 4 pins to the LEFT on the top row of ECU.

GROUND

This is 20 pins to the LEFT of the connector, 2nd row down (end pin and next to POWER above), and is mainly black (with white dashes) as well. This one is a bit different, as you have to tap TWICE into this GROUND wire. The manual is adamant that you must tap the BROWN SAFC wire closer to the ECU side, than the BLACK SAFC wire, and at least 1cm apart. So basically like so...

The manual says its for proper unit operation, so make sure you DO connect it up like they say.

Thats it for the wiring part.

CONNECTING SAFC

Connect up the SAFC subloom to the main wiring plug out of the unit, and place the unit where you feel comfortable.. On R32 this isn't too bad a spot if you ask me, although not right in the line of sight (I've removed the ashtray). Up to you.

BASIC SETTINGS

Here are the basic settings you'll need for a GTS-T (r32 or R33).. Please refer to the proper APEXI manual for full details (free download online). Get into the ETC menu, SETTINGS, and then we want:

car type: cyl: 6, RISING (diag right arrow)

sens. type: HOTWIRE and then IN OUT both set to (1 1).

Leave sens-cal to: 1 1 for IN and OUT

FINAL TESTING

Don't put your ecu back into place yet! Time for testing. Firstly I would start the car up, and let it idle for a bit.. pump the accelerator a few times and check all items are displaying correctly (throttle %, AFM voltage, RPM). If you can, do this while jiggling / pulling all the connections around the ECU. If something drops off the display or is intermittent, check that connection again. Its best to have a loose connection be sussed out at idle, rather than when the car is on full pelt and about to melt.

Tape up and isolate the remaining plugs (used for different cars).. and if you like use cable ties or electrical tape to wrap the end. If you are careful, you should be able to slip the original wiring plastic cover back on.

If all is ok, screw the ecu back into place, and the plastic kick panel back over it. Again, start her up and check all values are ok. Softly kick the ecu and make sure nothing drops off easily.. why? your mate or partner is accidentally going to do it one day without you noticing.

Take it for a drive and make sure its all driving as normal.. with no correction values, it should just be behaving exactly as normal. Take it to a workshop and get them to dyno tune it. Probably just saved about $100-200 installation cost by doing it yourself, which can pay for the tuning instead.

DISCONNECTING / RETURNING TO STOCK

May as well throw this in.. Say you want to totally remove the SAFC (to go for say a PFC), or to temporarily remove...

Pull everything apart, disconnect the bullets to SAFC and simply bullet back together the AFM wire as per factory. You can also disconnect all your splicings and for the original wires, simply wrap each one in electrical tape to prevent any voltage jump onto other wiring.

Put it all back together, wrap the whole loom in a wad of electrical tape, and nobody will be the wiser. Afterall, it is back to factory setup

with the basic instructions u hav for setting it up is that all you have to do have the car running before you take it to dyno to get tuned

[snsdrifter]

i dont know how to hook up 2 air flow meters on my r32 GTR there is 2 wires it has coming from the controller.. one is an input one is an output i have one meter hooked up... do i hook up the second one to the same wires as the first or would the short something?

Edited April 10, 2009 by snsdrifter

[bloodsword27]

afm -> input, output -> afm....i think...basically the safc should sit in between the cut

[snsdrifter]

afm -> input, output -> afm....i think...basically the safc should sit in between the cut

so i just run the 2 air flow meters to the same 2 wires on the controller?

[Tomz14]

Hey its the series one and two different

[frowgli]

im in the process of sticking mine in too and just like that other guy said my afm pin is missing too...i "THINK" i own a r33 series 1.5...(series 1 exterior, series 2 interior, passenger side aribag, starter unit on ECU???)

ill ive it a stab in the dark and post back if i get it going or not.

[r33canada]

there should not be a difference, find an r33 wiring diagram and look up the colours. i know wire colors tend to change but the position shouldnt at all.

[PEZESD]

hey guys i have wired up a safc2 to my auto r33 but havent actually run it yet due to knowing that the auto runs a bit different to a manual. I have found a base setting diagram and have done the exact settings as the second box on the bottom show. would this be ok to run on a auto?

if you could help would be much appreciated.

.

[hardsteppa]

just to revive the thread - just fitted an safc2 to my s2 r33, and no go. Trialled it when i had just wired in the power and earth and it fired up fine...did the rest of the wiring and the ecu just kept clicking and safc kept restarting......caused by the squarish solenoid in behind the ecu, you can feel it clicking. Disconnected the afm wire and joined them back to bypass the safc, it fired up fine. Set all the settings in the safc, turned it off, went upstairs for a bit.......came back down and now it won't fire up at all, just keeps clicking/restarting??? cut all wires bar the ground and power, and still clicking. At a loss, cause I soldered all the joins, no way they have come loose?? anyone have any suggestions?