Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Alright this is really driving me crazy.....

I dont know how to explain this in words but ill try my best and hopefully at least one of you can understand what im trying to say.

On straight line acceleration the car seems to "shift" or move/steer to the right then come back on line when I take my foot off the accelerator. It is a similar sensation to when you scrabbling for traction in 1st and 2nd....except im not losing traction and it happens at the higher end of 3rd gear.

I have had a wheel alignment done already so I dont think its an issue with alignment.

The only possible explanations I can think of are these.

The rear end is too light ? and not enough downforce in the rear.

I took the jack and spare tyre and wing off almost at the same time. and it shaved almost 30kg from the rear of the car. Put the spare tyre back and it is noticably better. Would a wing make THAT much difference ?

Or I think maybe my diff has had it.....is it possible to open wheel in a straight line ? cause at time it DOES feel like one wheel is spinning faster to cause this shift to the right...

Or my tyre sizing is wrong

I have 235/40/18s up front and 275/35/18 rear.

Previously I had 265 at the rears..but on my last tyre change decided to go for the 275 for the extra fattness :D

Finally, can the hicas system play up during straight line acceleration ?

and would it have similar effects to what I am experiencing ?

Thing is it doesnt happen ALL the time...only on certain roads, however I have never experienced this in the past 2 years that I have owned the car and I have pretty much been using the same roads....

very confused and need of help................ :D

EDIT

Forgot to mention that at first I thought it was my back left wheel as it kept on deflating to 19psi over a few days. This was due to a pretty bad spin out at wakefield and the dirt got between the rubber and wheel. On this note, could anything have been affected that might not have been fixed during the wheel alignment ? ie wheel bearing ?

Edited by shonen
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/85242-okwhat-is-wrong-with-my-car/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • See my post here If you put the Haltech in, you won't have to worry about any of that. And, in case you're worrying about my lack of credentials in doing your exact swap, I put a Neo in an R32. There has never been a stock boost solenoid near my car and the Neo's ECU has never cared. Nor should it, because it is electronically impossible for it to care.
    • That's 100% wrong. Did you wire in the boost sensor? If you did not, then that is 101% your answer. Neo ECUs do suck a bit.
    • Hello, I'm trying to make this thread basically the thread with all the answers to common questions regarding specifically the RB20 DE NEO + T engine, that comes in the R34. Answers will and only should be provided by those who have done this conversion or actually have some relevant real life experience please. Please feel free to ask questions in the comments if you have any so other members can answer. I feel like this thread is really needed, especially with more Americans buying (unknowingly going to regret it too) rb20 neo r34s. My first question being - What do you guys use for tuning? I have purchased a haltech elite 2500 Plug and play kit for the rb25det NEO because the ecu plug is the same, but I am unsure if any of the pins would need to be repined to match. Second question that I see asked very often - After this conversion, did you install the boost solenoid/ actuator? I see many people doing a + T setup on their rb20 NEOs while running stock RB25DET NEO ECUs with no tune. I am wondering how they are going about doing that and consistently abusing the car because many of these people have had these untuned setups running for a very long time. That was my original plan, but my engine cuts out at 5 psi of boost using the stock ecu with no tune and no boost solenoid/actuator.
    • interesting. ive read and heard otherwise over the past year. ive been doing this +t conversion on a rb20 neo using all oem rb25det neo parts including the ECU, and im having engine cut out issues when I hit around 5 psi of boost. Everywhere/everyone ive asked has told me its because I never wired in a boost solenoid/actuator to the ecu, so the ecu isn't getting the right signal once it hits 5 psi of boost, causing the engine to get shut off.
×
×
  • Create New...