Jump to content
SAU Community

Problems With Hks Ssqv

thanglongz

By thanglongz,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

thanglongz Rising Star

thanglongz

Posted
Posted

Hey all,

need help. Tried installing a HKS SSQV to the rb20 in an AUTO where the mount for the stock BOV is located. Blocked off the return hose and connected all lthe necessary hoses. But when it came to driving (read:crusing) it jsut stalled when ever the revs were changed below 3,000rpm. You could jsut hear the BOV releasing then the engine jsut shuts off.

The seller off SAU tried resetting the ECU via Disconneting the battery and all but the stalling continued. ALl means were considered but need more info and help.

Any tips be great cheers all!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/85272-problems-with-hks-ssqv/
Share on other sites
Andi Experienced

Andi

Posted
Posted

Err I'm not sure how a BOV is suppose to work on an auto but with a manaul it lets off when you let off the gas, i.e when throttle body is closing.

So hows it suppose to let off if you just keep your foot on the accelerator? Maybe that has something to do with it.

Malecki Rising Star

Malecki

Posted
Posted

You might want to try and adjust the spring tension on the valve so it opens easier under low rpm, BOV's on autos can regularly cause stalling if not adjusted properly

Just keep adjusting it and rev it to 3000rpm and if it goes back to idle without stalling or struggling it should be fine

What boost you running?

Josh Grand Master

Josh

Posted
Posted

Sorry to hijack thread but.. when you switch from a plumb back to atmo blow off valve, does it not play havoc with the air flow meter taking into account having the plumb back, with the a/f mixtures? Like mine, when i disconnect the plumb back hose the idle is really rough... stalling occasionally..

Josh Grand Master

Josh

Posted
Posted

Makes sense..

What I meant was the afm has inbuilt compensations for the air coming back through the plumback, when you take the plumback away the mixtures aren't right because of those compensations..

So yeh - the electronic means to fix that would probably have something to do with that... right?

thanglongz Rising Star

thanglongz

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Tnanks for the helpful advice, reckon gettin the HKS EIDS is teh way. But my mate is running an atmo BOV on his auto, retaining the stock BOV, and using the cooling pipe near the Air Box. Is this a simple soluyion or will it have a future effect?!?!

cheers all

andy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • uchoa
      Howdy from the states.

      By uchoa 路 Posted

      To be determined, Luke, to be determined. 馃榿 Definitely the car
    • Duncan
      S1 headlights?

      By Duncan 路 Posted

      It might be worth having a good look at the chassis behind the bumper then; most people prefer the series 2 look so it might have been changed to cheaper parts as part of an earlier repair
    • Celticsfan03
      S1 headlights?

      By Celticsfan03 路 Posted

      The car itself a series 2. I was just curious about the headlights and just wanted to confirm that they were series 1. Good to know the rest of the front end is series 1. It鈥檒l be easier for me to find parts on the aftermarket side of things lol
    • WMDC35
      R34 engine swap Rb25de neo to s1 Rb25det

      By WMDC35 路 Posted

      If you've wired up the coils & injectors properly, & have the neo CAS loom for the trigger, it should all work. The VCT works the same way so just different plugs between s1 & neo. Assuming DBW if no IAC. Don't bother with the stock boost solenoid with g4x.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 engine swap Rb25de neo to s1 Rb25det

      By GTSBoy 路 Posted

      THERE IS NO IAT SENSOR ON ANY SINGLE TURBO RB. And the one on an RB26 is not for "engine control" - it's really too big and too slow and is only used for over-temp alarming (as far as I can tell). Anyway, you don't have one. You want/need one for the Link, then you need to buy one, find a spot for it, and wire it in. You do know that the stock boost solenoid is not capable of "control", right? It is merely on or off, for the low boost (5 psi) and high boost (7psi), which the ECU enforces mostly based on gear. The stock solenoid is not for PWM control and is not plumbed up in a way to provide it. If you want to control boost properly, then you need a proper MAC valve. And yes, you can wire either of them direct to the ECU. Well, I assume you can - I don't know what the boost solenoid pins on the plug and play Link are capable of. They really should be as capable as any normal Link - but seeing as it is plg and play, it might be limited to stock functionality. Read the doco.   You really do just want to plug stuff together without understanding how it works, right? I can't help you there. I don't know the plug types or pinning on half the stuff you're asking about. If I had to do it I would sit down with the wiring diagrams, the car/looms and a multimeter and work out what is what.
脳
脳
  • Create New...