Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Mike, I replaced my front splits last weekend, and the wiring for the tweeters doesn't seem to come from the drivers in the doors. There are only two wires heading to the drivers in the door on each side, and no wires leading away from them. When I looked at the tweeters and replaced them, they had a separate set of wires leading to them, but not sure where they came from, maybe it was directly from the head unit. They seemed to have tiny crossovers attached to them directly.

Tracing the wires would have been a hugely time-consuming process - taking the A-pillar cover off is a task and a half, because it's all one piece going to the B- and C-pillars too, so I just didn't bother.

  • 2 weeks later...

excellent guide - thanks Alex.

only problem Ive found is the headunit doesnt remember the settings which means the ignition wire isnt the right one.

I wired it up to the light blue with yellow stripe wire as recommended.

Any suggestions?

Also, cos I live in the country, I cannot access the areial plug adaptor.

Anyone know how to get one of these online?

Or, is some kind City dweller willing to get me one and post it to me (at my expense of course) :mad:

The memory is stored via the 12v constant supply, the ignition just turns it on ...so the ignition wire isnt your problem. double check your main positive connection, Also those wires are based on the S1 ( just in case you have an S2)

Cheers

Lee

Edited by STAGE-A
  • 2 months later...

Hey guys,

I just picked up my new head unit today and i have spent the whole afternoon completely ripping out the old system which had a japanese GPS and stacker and tv wires which all needed to be removed under the carpet it was a massive pain in the arse it took about 3 hrs to get it all completely removed and all the trims put back together.

Anyway i was looking at my new headunit wires and the only one im confused with is the auto arial wire do i connect this to the wire that alex was talking about? Black and Yellow one?

Cheers Simon

Hey guys,

I just picked up my new head unit today and i have spent the whole afternoon completely ripping out the old system which had a japanese GPS and stacker and tv wires which all needed to be removed under the carpet it was a massive pain in the arse it took about 3 hrs to get it all completely removed and all the trims put back together.

Anyway i was looking at my new headunit wires and the only one im confused with is the auto arial wire do i connect this to the wire that alex was talking about? Black and Yellow one?

Cheers Simon

the yellow wire alex mentioned is the power wire to the glass antenna if u dont put power to it the reception is crap i just used the ign wire so its only live when ign is on. i just finished mine a while ago if the auto arial wire is the one on the headunit it is there to operate an electric arial when unit is on. i didnt use it on mine i just put it into the new plug i got from dick smith and didnt have anything in the other half of plug so it was just terminated .if i decide to put an elekky arial in later i just solder a wire onto the pin and put it in. the plug i got was a 15 pin job from dick smith it cost about 5 bucks you just solder the pins to the wires then push them into the plug base where u want them i put the female onto the original car wires and then the male on the radio wires so it all looks reasonably factory etc and was a neat job without tape also headunit just unplugs now like the original did ............ i hope that helps a little regards mike
Cheers Mike,

Yeah that helps heaps, just one other question on the head unit what wire do i connect to the lights wire from the factory wiring loom?

picked mine up from the ciggy lighter light

Hey alex,

Yeah for sure id like to catch up soon anyway i wanna see how good your car looks when its done.

But fortunately i sorted it all out today thank god it was pretty simple if only i had a multi metre from the start lol.

The end result came up really well im extremely pleased with it.

I will post pics tomorrow night when i get a chance to take some pics.

All i can say is to who ever the person is who hooked up the boost gauge before me and wired up the old stereo and other crap had absolutely no idea on what he/she was doing it was an absolute butchering of a job.

  • 1 month later...

Has any one worked out how to get decent reception with aftermarket head units and the aerials in the rear windows? The only wire I have that isn't connected to anything is blue with a white stripe but when I give that 12v it doesn’t make any difference to the reception but sucks up a heap of power as if it's earthed.

The black with yellow stripe wire that Alexcim claims is the power for the antenna is connected at both ends. One end joins into the wires going to the antennas and the other links into the main body loom.

I guess my next step will me to snip the black with yellow stripe wire and give the end going to the antennas 12v and see what happens.

I had to remove all 4 screws holding the console before removing the rectangle plastic faceplate...thats coz i found 2 screws at the bottom which attached the stereo surround to the metal center console just below the clips...if u tried to pop the surround off before removing the screws...might end up with a broken bracket.

Has any one worked out how to get decent reception with aftermarket head units and the aerials in the rear windows? The only wire I have that isn't connected to anything is blue with a white stripe but when I give that 12v it doesn’t make any difference to the reception but sucks up a heap of power as if it's earthed.

The black with yellow stripe wire that Alexcim claims is the power for the antenna is connected at both ends. One end joins into the wires going to the antennas and the other links into the main body loom.

I guess my next step will me to snip the black with yellow stripe wire and give the end going to the antennas 12v and see what happens.

Are you sure it doesn't come back out somewhere behind the head unit? As the power to the antena is normally switched on/off by the head unit (no point having it powered if it is off!) - so I'd try what you sugested above...

Ian

Hi Guys/Gals

Quick question ( i hope), hubby recently installed one of those 10Mhz FM Radio Convertors into my Stag... found a problem with it this morning.. the FM convertor works all the time when the car is in "park"... the problem is when you put the car in drive it still works until you put your foot on the accelerator then it turns off... although in park/reverse its fine.... I dont think its a short otherwise it shouldnt work at all... Its strange but its like there isnt enough power under load????

Suggestions??? has hubby connected something incorrectly or forgotten something??? any ideas would be helpful before we pull it apart again to find the fault :confused:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...