Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well?????????????????????????????????????????? was it hubby lol

hahaha i wasnt suppose to say anything but................:( the wire he connected it to was labelled "speed wire"..i pointed the label out to him and i couldnt stop laughing :happy:

oh well i couldnt have done it my self so im greatful that i have a radio, it works when i plant my foot down and that he did it for me :mad: we all make mistakes and were not perfect but it sure was funny seeing the wire labelled :laugh:

:laugh: ya brett :huh:

*Shrugs shoulders* Meh it had 12V on it when turned to accesories so I used it... Have to admit though I am not sure what the purpose of a wire coming from the radio that varies its voltage as the accelerator is pushed for.... never the less... I redid it and used another wire... problem solved :D

*Shrugs shoulders* Meh it had 12V on it when turned to accesories so I used it... Have to admit though I am not sure what the purpose of a wire coming from the radio that varies its voltage as the accelerator is pushed for.... never the less... I redid it and used another wire... problem solved :P

Your right - that is weird....

Maybe it is one of those things like Honda and BMW fitted to their bikes a while back - the big tourers that had stereos fitted as standard (I kid you not!) had a natty little feature that raised the volume as the road speed increased so you could hear your choons over the wind noise.

Yet another trap for young players in the wonderful world of japanese imports :D

Well what it appears to me is that when the throttle is pushed (only in drive, not park) the voltage appears to drop across that wire... thus the Fm Converter doesnt have the power to work...

Its the strangest thing I have seen in all my years of backyard auto electrics :D

  • 1 month later...

Bought a head unit today, and some rear co-axials to match my front Boston splits. Hopefully, I will fit these next week some time.

My front speaker mounts had to be chopped up heaps too for the magnets to fit, and some of the mounting holes didn't line up properly. I might have to borrow a jigsaw and get some MDF to make some decent pods for them, and maybe the back too depending on the quality of the fit.

Has any one worked out how to get decent reception with aftermarket head units and the aerials in the rear windows? The only wire I have that isn't connected to anything is blue with a white stripe but when I give that 12v it doesn’t make any difference to the reception but sucks up a heap of power as if it's earthed.

The black with yellow stripe wire that Alexcim claims is the power for the antenna is connected at both ends. One end joins into the wires going to the antennas and the other links into the main body loom.

I guess my next step will me to snip the black with yellow stripe wire and give the end going to the antennas 12v and see what happens.

Hi, did you get around to trying this? Did it work?

:P cheers :P

Your right - that is weird....

Maybe it is one of those things like Honda and BMW fitted to their bikes a while back - the big tourers that had stereos fitted as standard (I kid you not!) had a natty little feature that raised the volume as the road speed increased so you could hear your choons over the wind noise.

Yet another trap for young players in the wonderful world of japanese imports :(

The 350Z also has a similar feature. You can have the radio get louder as your revs increase. Not sure if that would work in practice but it would be interesting to find out.

I found that you have to hard wire both connections coming from both diversity antennas together and into a standard plug to get the best reception. If you just use an adaptor plug, you will be only using one antenna.

Heres some pics of the adaptor I made, just make sure you insulate the centre cores from the screens when your done soldering them together, or you'll end up with no reception.

Might stick some heatshrink on it, to tidy it up, and make it more secure.post-17348-1172144501.jpgpost-17348-1172144863.jpg

That is what I did too as I couldn't buy an adapter at the time, that was a stroke of luck. Powered up the yellow and black wire and I am happy with the reception I get, Just as good as our other car with a standard external (maybe a little better).

Cheers

Luke

That is what I did too as I couldn't buy an adapter at the time, that was a stroke of luck. Powered up the yellow and black wire and I am happy with the reception I get, Just as good as our other car with a standard external (maybe a little better).

Cheers

Luke

That was lucky, it's the only way to get decent reception. I've found it's not quite as good as a normal antenna, eg: if you go in an underground carpark etc, you completely lose reception, and won't pick up quite as far over distance, But it's damn close.

That is what I did too as I couldn't buy an adapter at the time, that was a stroke of luck. Powered up the yellow and black wire and I am happy with the reception I get, Just as good as our other car with a standard external (maybe a little better).

Cheers

Luke

Hi Luke, what do you mean by "powered up the yellow and black wire"?

In mine the yellow and black wire is connected at both ends, one end heads off down the back and the other end goes into the dashboard wiring harness.

So did you cut the yellow and black wire and supply +12v to one end?

If so, which end?

Or did you supply 12 volts to both ends?

:P cheers :D

Hey SK, it's been a while since I did mine, but I think the yellow and black wire went to the deck.

I definately know that it's part of the antenna harness that comes to the deck.

Hey SK, it's been a while since I did mine, but I think the yellow and black wire went to the deck.

I definately know that it's part of the antenna harness that comes to the deck.

Yep mine ran to the deck, there was no confusion, I didn't need to cut it. Did you have the stock head unit in there when you got it SK? If not, someone may have already fiddled with it...

Cheers

Luke

P.S. does one end of that wire run into a plug like this?

280420063sr.jpg

(Photo credit - Alex)

And I don't think (can't be sure) that it was a thick wire from memory...

Edited by munchdesign
Yep mine ran to the deck, there was no confusion, I didn't need to cut it. Did you have the stock head unit in there when you got it SK? If not, someone may have already fiddled with it...

Cheers

Luke

It had the standard deck in it. The yellow and black wire definitely did not go to the deck. Mine and Burns are exactly the same, check back a couple of pages and you will see his post.

:P cheers :D

It had the standard deck in it. The yellow and black wire definitely did not go to the deck. Mine and Burns are exactly the same, check back a couple of pages and you will see his post.

:P cheers :D

OK, yep, see that now, bloody strange... Mine has the AV/Navi unit in it but all that meant was that there was an extra short loom added in after the standard plug that split the wires up as required (CD player and radio/audio controls were two separate units) once I worked that out, all the wires lined up with the "How to".

Sorry I can't help any more...

Cheers

Luke

  • 2 months later...

Hey All.

Just a tip if you want a quick and easy stereo install (at least on a S1 Stag but seems like the wires are the same for S2 as well).

Buy an Aerpro loom adaptor kit from JB HiFi or similar for $14 and all the wires match straight up. Just cut off the small brown/black connectors, solder the aftermarket stereo loom in to the aerpro one by matching the colours, then plug the factory plugs into the white aerpro sockets and its all done ... couldn't be easier !! Don't forget to get the Antenna adaptor too :wave:

The one to get is for NISSAN 200SX, 240SX and Maxima, Part Number APP0120. The only lead that doesn't match is the black earth, but you can earth the aftermarket radio straight on to metal anyway. I double checked all the wires were the right ones, so its all good >_<

http://www.aerpro.com.au/list.php?pcode=AP...amp;cat_sno=160

post-35897-1179551790_thumb.jpg

Also, to get a 1 DIN plastic pocket to fill the hole left by the double DIN factory system. the genuine NISSAN Patrol pocket fits perfect. Part #NI-68475-35F00. $30 and looks just like a bought one :laughing-smiley-014:

Edited by exitSTAGEAright
Hey All.

Just a tip if you want a quick and easy stereo install (at least on a S1 Stag but seems like the wires are the same for S2 as well).

Buy the Aeropro loom adaptor kit from JB HiFi or similar for $14 and all the wires match straight up. Just solder the aftermarket stereo loom in to the aeropro one by matching the colours, then plug the factory plugs into the aeropro one's sockets and its all done ... couldn't be easier !! Don't forget to get the Antenna adaptor too :(

The one to get is for NISSAN 200SX, 240SX and Maxima. I meant to keep the packet for the part number but forgot, sorry! The only lead that doesn't match is the black earth, but you can earth the aftermarket radio straight on to metal anyway. I double checked all the wires were the right ones, so its all good :O

Also, to get a 1 DIN plastic pocket to fill the hole left by the double DIN factory system. the genuine NISSAN Patrol pocket fits perfect. Part #NI-68475-35F00. $30 and looks just like a bought one :laughing-smiley-014:

Jeez, that would make it heaps easier! I bought the Aeropro antenna adaptor from JB, but if I'd known the loom adaptor was a straight fit too, I would have gotten one of those too. Oh well...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For sure the later RB26 variants had a different setup (6 cam voltage sender?), but the RB25DE/DET share the same ECU pinout/PCB footprint, and at the ECU plug it ends up being 'throttle sensor in' & 'throttle sensor out' (to A/T TCU) ...you stick a multimeter on these pins and you'll find them directly connected (0 ohms) ; I had an pair of Nissan ECUs on the bench long ago, and I noticed this throttle sensor in/out link, actually linked to an op-amp ...which was unpopulated on the NA board, but present on the T board and I went 'ah-ha!' in some moment of clarity... ...it wouldn't surprise me if they changed strategy here though (in the software and actual monitoring of this signal), because they did with other stuff (A/T signals).. and 0.45v as a trigger point makes sense, as that's what the external TCU units expect at idle ; kudos, thanks for that insight...I suppose it boils down to whether or not Consult can display real time data of that signal's voltage... ...in any event, it presents the same target...ie; rotate TPS unit to achieve 0.45v to suit both ECU&TCU, and where do you goto from there? Just disconnect TPSwitch connector and/or that plus TPSensor connector....or do you go for the throat and disconnect IACV solenoid and see if it still stalls? (probably throws a recoverable fault code and goes for default idle strategy?)...
    • I’m also conscious that e85 is slowly being phased out. Not all United’s have them anymore. Can’t take the risk of being low on petrol and assuming the servo will have it. 
    • MR HAMMER has said his piece. Painted up to avoid Rusty Rusty. Actually lines up well. (i.e it lines up the same as the unmolested GTR guard). Turns out the GTR Strut brace does foul on the bonnet vents ever so slightly. May need a little bendy bendy if intended to keep using with a strut brace. So spacing it out to clear the FAST102 is not an option. Annoyingly, the bonnet vents also foul on the heater lines running over the engine. Given this engine does not EVER require a heater, a delete loop is going to be used. Don't worry, the defogger uses the AC. The heater is basically "Do not use the aircon and turn the fan on". It will still be effective, I promise.... once I get the system regassed... Will have to revisit with unvented bonnet I suppose, and suitable strut brace. There's plans to do this and other things tonight and bleed brakes (there was a weep) and put the bumper back on, and take Good Friday morning - Because troubleshooting on the side of the road limping it home at midnight tonight is ... not very smart.
    • Thank you all for you assistance. I contacted Nistune regarding the support for the RB20DE along with my ECU Code (23710-10U00). They do have a map for it and added the RB20DE as a purchasable option now as well. They also added Malta as a Billing and Delivery options as this was missing. I was honestly amazed at their quick response and action, it took less than 24 hours. I also looked again at direct fit options for injectors, just in case I were to replace them. DeatschWerks seem to use a Bosch EV14 base and makes ones that fit mine at 440cc lowest, but also have 550cc at the same price. I tried looking for other direct fit options and managed to find one (also Bosch EV14 based) which includes a plug and play adapter on ebay. Did a small test with a Noid Light on the troubled injectors and all seems good, so they are pulsing properly electrically. One weird part is that they are missing on the same two cylinders as before I got the injectors cleaned. Mechanic also found this weird as he did not label the injectors and it is unlikely to have the faulty injectors be installed in the same cylinders.  
×
×
  • Create New...