Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi ive been thinking a lot lately about different for positions for subs in an r33 2dr. I previously had a Nissan NXR/coupe, which was a hatchback(obviously).

Now i had the sub in the boot and no parcel tray as it didnt come with the car, and it sounded excellent, like it was sitting 30 cm or so behind my head.

I want to get this kind of sound in a skyline, but dont want to have it in my boot due to space, poorer sound quality and boot rattle issues (you look like a tool).

So, has anybody tried or heard of anybody having an install of one or 2 8" subs running in the centre of the back seat? I know it might sound stupid, but i think it would greatly improve sound quality, wont have it damaged in the boot when i use it, and it would be a different install from the norm. I have used my back seats maybe twice in a year and a half so they wont get damaged from people getting in and out, just warn them on the very odd occasion that they get in. It would have more chance of getting damaged in the boot.

The only problem i can see is they will need to be supported somehow, maybe a strip of wood inside the seat? And is there any chance of fire due to the materials the seat is made of and any heat from the subs?

Thanks in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/85439-sub-install-in-rear-seat/
Share on other sites

hey there...

i think it would be very unlikely/impossible for there to be a fire risk from the sub or its housing... the only fire risk possibilty would be if you amp was also on the back seat had wiring issues... as far as how to do it.. umm, pass.. but let us know if you can figure a way... but if you do figure something, make sure it involves haveing any subs/amps/boxes very well secured, theres nothing worse that have a heavy projectile parked right behind you if you need to stop in a hurry.. the other thing to consider is having you gear displayed in the back seat might increase the risk of theft..

hope some of that helps,

damo

No use mounting a sub anywhere if you arent going to box it... If you boxed it, there would be no issue at all with heat or short circuiting wiring etc. Not sure exactly what it is that you are asking either... There is nothing saying that a sub mounted in the boot will have poorer sound quality then one in your back seat. It has nothing to do with location, provided the airspace in which the bass frequency resonates in, is correctly 'tuned' so-to-speak.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
    • I'm almost at a point where I feel like changing the alternator. Need to check the stuff you mentioned first though.
×
×
  • Create New...