Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You can't. It then becomes your word against theres, just like if you hadn't taken notes.

But, if you do have notes, then your word becomes a lot more consistent and you'll have a lot more detail since your memory isn't warped by time's ravages.

And since the legal profession is such an old fashioned institution with a love of paperwork, they still have great respect for people who take notes of everything. The defense lawyer may still try and attack it, but its better to have more evidence than less.

In some cases those notes can be tendered as evidence. If not, then there's no harm in having them. If they don't accept it, then you've lost a couple of skin cells holding a pen, some ink and some paper.

If they do accept it, and the retailer doesn't have notes and his testimony keeps changing (either because he's a lying sack of shyte or because he can't recall exactly what he said 9 months ago) then you're more likely to go home with a car.

Every time I've read up about what to do in an accident (either on official literature, literature provided by an insurance company, or by my novated leasing company) they've said that after exchanging details try and make some notes of what happened as soon as possible (it could be that night or the next day, but while its fresh in your mind). If the other party contests it, then your notes may help you in court.

I doubt they'd all be telling us to make notes if it didn't have some weight.

Thanks heaps for all your help keep it coming. Every time i have had any contact with the car yard in mention i have kept a copy of there response and mine plus i have all the tax invoices and other paper work that i got when i got the car. It would be much better if this could be fixed up out of court but what can i do if it gets that far i so be it.

Edited by nathn_r33

Have you already paid for the car?

Was there any clause in the bill of sale regarding what type of car it was that they were selling you and which VIN. If so than you have a legal standing..

The best outcome is you take them to court and get them to pay for court fees + get your money back.

Have you paid with bank cheque? because you could ring up the bank and try and withdraw the cheque.. You could also contact the police and see if they have any suggestions.. doesn't hurt.

Good luck with it all..

Be careful of lawyers though - they charge a large amount of money - and it doesn't neccessarily resolve everything - be prepared to possibly lose and have to foot the bill..

Have you already paid for the car?

Was there any clause in the bill of sale regarding what type of car it was that they were selling you and which VIN. If so than you have a legal standing..

The best outcome is you take them to court and get them to pay for court fees + get your money back.

Have you paid with bank cheque? because you could ring up the bank and try and withdraw the cheque.. You could also contact the police and see if they have any suggestions.. doesn't hurt.

Good luck with it all..

Be careful of lawyers though - they charge a large amount of money - and it doesn't neccessarily resolve everything - be prepared to possibly lose and have to foot the bill..

Yeah paid for the car

Was there any clause in the bill of sale regarding what type of car it was

Tax invoice for the car has it down as a gts-t so that all i need.

better yet, when you ring them, before anything is said, tell them who you are, why you're calling, and that the call is being recorded. i dont think its illegal as long as the other party knows about it

1. DO NOT RING THEM!!

2. speak to anyone of your friends / family friends who are practising lawyers. Get their advice - not some random people on forums who have opinions - not legal standing.

3. only have correspondence in writing, be it email or snail mail. I'm pretty sure (now check with a law-type) that email is admissable in court.

4. telephone conversations will not be admissable - it is your word against theirs in terms of factual content, and the court will throw it out anyway. Forget about recording conversations - you may (and often likely) say things which you don't want to and guess what - you can't take it back... that's why always in writing. In writing you have time to review your letter, remove anything that is emotionally charged (ie. you won't say anything in the heat of the moment) and will, if submitted before courts seem much more level headed and professional.

5. I have read here on the forums (there is a thread about V-spec NURs), but cannot substantiate, that FAST is NOT always correct. Best get someone who knows the cars to confirm that this was originally a GTS - look for something that is specifically GTS, not performance related, and check if it is the same on your car. That's your best bet.

6. I cannot reiterate enough - no offence to anyone out there - but there are many many misguided people with little more than opinions on this forum who know very little about alot. If you want to be serious and professional and get the best result, consult REAL experts, not a forum. Problem is you don't know who is full of shit and who isn't.

Hope that is of some help.

Regards

1. DO NOT RING THEM!!

2. speak to anyone of your friends / family friends who are practising lawyers.  Get their advice - not some random people on forums who have opinions - not legal standing.

3. only have correspondence in writing, be it email or snail mail.  I'm pretty sure (now check with a law-type) that email is admissable in court.

4. telephone conversations will not be admissable - it is your word against theirs in terms of factual content, and the court will throw it out anyway.  Forget about recording conversations - you may (and often likely) say things which you don't want to and guess what - you can't take it back... that's why always in writing.  In writing you have time to review your letter, remove anything that is emotionally charged (ie. you won't say anything in the heat of the moment) and will, if submitted before courts seem much more level headed and professional.

5. I have read here on the forums (there is a thread about V-spec NURs), but cannot substantiate, that FAST is NOT always correct.  Best get someone who knows the cars to confirm that this was originally a GTS - look for something that is specifically GTS, not performance related, and check if it is the same on your car. That's your best bet.

6. I cannot reiterate enough - no offence to anyone out there - but there are many many misguided people with little more than opinions on this forum who know very little about alot.  If you want to be serious and professional and get the best result, consult REAL experts, not a forum.  Problem is you don't know who is full of shit and who isn't.

Hope that is of some help.

Regards

Thanks for that

I have been to see my lawyer i think some of what he said is on the first page. i just wanted everyone to talk about this sort of stuff as i dont think i have ever see anything like this in SAU. some advice is good some not so but hey it is an open forum for every one to have there say. keep it coming

Of course there are a lot of people full of crap on this forum and advice should not end here. However it's nice to know that there are guys supporting him in this difficult time on the forum. Gives people a bit of peace of mind discussing these things.

A couple of points from someone who controlled over 30 mill in contracts for the defence force.

What Vuster and Ronin 09 say is true. Their advice is good.

Email is a legally binding form of correspondence however you must include response dates and catch notes such as 'if you fail to respond by Xx date it will be accepted that you are liable for the following costs...' and they will respond rapidly.

Listen to your lawyer and make him demand his costs from them

Good luck mate

Geoff

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think the concept is highlighting the various scenarios where thicker oil helps, and thicker oil potentially doesn't help and only generates heat and costs power, in turn for safety which isn't actually any safer (unless you're going real hot). If anything this does highlight why throwing Castrol 10w-60 for your track days is always a solid, safe bet. 
    • Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
    • I don't think there's any way someone is push starting this car.. I honestly can barely move it, and moving it and steering it is just flat out not possible. I'm sure it is, but needs a bigger man than me. I have a refurbished starter now. The starter man was quite clear and consise showing me how nothing inside a starter really should contribute to slow cranking, and turned out that for the most part... my starter was entirely fine. Still, some of the wear items were replaced and luckily it didn't show any signs of getting too hot, being unfit for use, etc. Which is 'good'. I also noticed the starter definitely sounded different, which is a bit odd considering nothing should have really changed there.... Removed and refit, and we'll pretend one of the manifold bolts didn't fully tighten up and is only "pretty" tight. GM only wants 18ft/lb anyway. I also found a way to properly get my analog wideband reading very slightly leaner than the serial wideband. There's Greg related reasons for this. The serial output is the absolute source of truth, but it is a total asshole to actually stay connected and needs a laptop. The analog input does not, and works with standalone datalogging. Previously the analog input read slightly richer, but if I am aiming at 12.7 I do not want one of the widebands to be saying 12.7 when the source of truth is 13.0. Now the source of truth will be 12.65 and the Analog Wideband will read 12.7. So when I tune to 12.7 it'll be ever so slightly safer. While messing with all of this and idling extensively I can confirm my car seems to restart better while hot now. I did add an old Skyline battery cable between the head and the body though, though now I really realise I should have chosen the frame. Maybe that's a future job. The internet would have you believe that this is caused by bad grounds. In finding out where my grounds actually were I found out the engine bay battery post actually goes to the engine, as well as a seperate one (from the post) to the body of the car. So now there's a third one making the Grounding Triangle which is now a thing. I also from extensive idling have this graph. Temperature (°C) Voltage (V) 85 1.59 80 1.74 75 1.94 70 2.1 65 2.33 60 2.56 55 2.78 50 2.98 45 3.23 40 3.51 35 3.75 30 4.00   Plotted it looks like this. Which is actually... pretty linear? I have not actually put the formula into HPTuners. I will have to re-engage brain and/or re-engage the people who wanted more data to magically do it for me. Tune should be good for the 30th!
×
×
  • Create New...