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+2mm = toe in and -2mm = toe out doesent it???

Not in my race team.

The numbers refer to the toe (ie; front of the tyre)

Not the heel (ie; rear of the tyre)

-2 mm toe means the toes are closer together (ie; the distance is 2 mm less between the toes than it is between the heels)

+2mm toe means the toes are further appart (ie; the distance is 2 mm more between the toes than it is between the heels)

:) cheers :)

PS; no, I don't have a foot fettish

Edited by Sydneykid

Cheers Sydneykid got it all sorted

If anyone is after the subframe alignment part number - KCA349 for their r33-gst-t let me know as I ordered the part without realising I already had a different make installed on the car. I will sell it for $100 with delivery, rrp is $124 + delivery. It is still brand new and hasent been used or packet opened.

Hi SK,

Very interested in purchasing the kit...

I also thought I'd mention that I think it's great that you've gone to the trouble of using your expertise for the benefit of the group :)

Just wanted to ask...

My suspension set up is currently stock and my car is predominantly a street car, although it does see action at WSID every now and then.

Would you still recommend that this kit is suitable for my needs, or would you recommend something different that may benefit me at the drags whilst still giving me good handling on the street?

Interested to hear your feedback.

Brenden.

Hi SK,

Very interested in purchasing the kit...

I also thought I'd mention that I think it's great that you've gone to the trouble of using your expertise for the benefit of the group :P

Just wanted to ask...

My suspension set up is currently stock and my car is predominantly a street car, although it does see action at WSID every now and then.

Would you still recommend that this kit is suitable for my needs, or would you recommend something different that may benefit me at the drags whilst still giving me good handling on the street?

Interested to hear your feedback.

Brenden.

Hi Brenden, I get a lot out of the forum and this is one way I can put some back. Plus I might get some more engineering work as the Group Buy is selling quite a few kits. Showing the potential for a properly engineered kit.

I have designed this kit for primerily road use, it does quite well on the track (circuit and drag) and is much better than the standard stuff. The rear spring rate is not very stiff, doesn't need to be, so it works OK for launches (road and track). If you only go to the drags once or twice a year then this is best compromise, including the recommended settings. If you go a little more often (say 3 or 4 times a year) then there are a few alignment changes that will help.

1. Set the rear subframe alignment bushes for maximum squat. That's the small split bushes above the front mounts of the sub frame and the small (non split) bushes below the rear mounts of the sub frame.

2. Set the rear camber at posititive 0.25 degrees, the recommended setting is 0.5 degrees negative. This gives less dynamic negative camber when the rear squats on launch and thus increases the tyre contact patch.

3. Set the adjustable rear stabiliser bar on minimum stiffness, this limits any transfer of vertical forces from one rear wheel to the other.

If you intend to go to the drags more than 10 times a year, or are serious about setting a time and don't mind compromising the road handling, then hang out a couple of weeks for the drag kit that I am currently working on.

:) cheers :)

Edited by Sydneykid

I got my full kit delivered today thanks Gary (SydneyKid) & Jamex Australia.

Everyone who's worried about putting money down first, I'll put it clearly:

DONT WORRY -- PERFECT TRANSACTION, PERFECT COMMUNICATION, VERY FAST SHIPMENT TO VICTORIA &

REMEMBER - GARY WILL LOOK AFTER YOU!

I am more than happy with the kit & it is going on the car Friday at 8AM. I will let everyone know how it goes.

Please everyone help yourselves & other members

- SUPPORT & USE GROUP BUYS

Once again,

THANKS

SYDNEYKID! TOP WORK :(:):)

Thanks for the advice SK :)

I'll definately consider buying and installing the kit (with the settings you mentioned above) in the next month once I've finished my turbo upgrade.

Appreciate the help :)

I know it sounds like I am pushing, but there are only a limited number of Bilsteins available. When they run out I wil have to close the Group Buy. Bilstein (Germany) won't make Skyline shocks just for Australia, we don't order enough to make it worthwhile them doing a production run. So we have to wait until Japan orders. Nobody knows how long that will take, could be months, might be tomorrow. Plus Bilstein production scheduling is currently 3 to 5 months ahead. So that's the minimum anyway.

If the Bilstein distributor gets enough shocks delivered out of the production run. then I might be able to convince them to do it again. But if they only get a handfull, then they won't want to offer them at a cheap price. It's a kit deal, so I don't think I will be able to get Whiteline on board without Bilstein.

The bottom line, if you want a set, then order them now, I would much rather SAU guys get them than outsiders. Jamex will hold them on deposit ($100 a shock).

:) cheers :)

Hi,

The PM system doesn't seem to be working now so I'll have to post here.

I've paid for my order for shocks and springs and the receipt no. is 537791. I'll send you my full PM when the system is working again.

Regards,

Ben

Hi,

The PM system doesn't seem to be working now so I'll have to post here.

I've paid for my order for shocks and springs and the receipt no. is 537791.  I'll send you my full PM when the system is working again.

Regards,

Ben

PM has been received and the order processed. Thanks for supporting the Group Buy.

:O cheers :)

Hi Sydney Kid, I was looking at getting the "works kit" for my R33, I was just trying to figure out what i need from you list for it to be the same as or similar to the standard works pack, Is it two sets of shocks two sets of springs, 2 stabilizer bars and one of everything else?? Sorry if this is a dumb question but I really dont know waht I am looking at once I get past the springs and shocks!

Hi Sydney Kid, I was looking at getting the "works kit" for my R33, I was just trying to figure out what i need from you list for it to be the same as or similar to the standard works pack, Is it two sets of shocks two sets of springs, 2 stabilizer bars and one of everything else?? Sorry if this is a dumb question but I really dont know waht I am looking at once I get past the springs and shocks!

PM Sent

:P cheers :D

Update: I was advised of shipment Tuesday and Delivery occured Wednesday. No sweat on the delay as I already knew some items needed to be manufactured. A couple of items still to come but I now have the important items to smooth out my ride.

How am I feeling? Ecstatic!! What a great shock/spring setup. Massive increase in front grip on bumpy corners.

hay SK,

how much neg camber can you tune out of the rear tyres with the offset bushes?

if you have a car that is diving in to the corners too hard with a fare bit of understeer which swaybar will help tune some of this out Frount or Rear?

cheers,

Boz

hay SK,

how much neg camber can you tune out of the rear tyres with the offset bushes?

if you have a car that is diving in to the corners too hard with a fare bit of understeer which swaybar will help tune some of this out Frount or Rear?

cheers,

Boz

The standard adjuster is 0.3 degrees, the outer upper adjuster is almost 1.0 degree, the inner upper adjuster is 0.75 degrees. The recommended settings are 0.5 to 1.0 degrees. So if you have 3.5 degrees now you should be able to get it withing the recommended range. If you need more adjustment than that, then I STRONGLY suggest you raise it up to a more sensible height. It must be below 320 mm centre of wheel to guard, which is far too low for good handling or power.

As well as the adjustment, there is also the lower compliance of the polyurethane bushes to consider. This means less dynamic camber change (under load) which can add another 1.5 to 2.5 degrees to the static readings with the old/well used standard bushes. Most of this (dynamic camber change) is eliminated with the new polyurethane bushes.

Hope that answered your question.

:P cheers :D

The standard adjuster is 0.3 degrees, the outer upper adjuster is almost 1.0 degree, the inner upper adjuster is 0.75 degrees.  The recommended settings are 0.5 to 1.0 degrees.  So if you have 3.5 degrees now you should be able to get it withing the recommended range.  If you need more adjustment than that, then I STRONGLY suggest you raise it up to a more sensible height.  It must be below 320 mm centre of wheel to guard, which is far too low for good handling or power.

As well as the adjustment, there is also the lower compliance of the polyurethane bushes to consider.  This means less dynamic camber change (under load) which can add another 1.5 to 2.5 degrees to the static readings with the old/well used standard bushes.  Most of this (dynamic camber change) is eliminated with the new polyurethane bushes.

Hope that answered your question.

:) cheers :)

Garry

are the KCA347 bushes the ones that i need?

did you have a think about my previous question about the swaybars? it is for my brothers GT4.

Cheers,

Boz

Garry

are the KCA347 bushes the ones that i need?

did you have a think about my previous question about the swaybars? it is for my brothers GT4.

Cheers,

Boz

HiBoz, yep the KCA347 fits all R32, R33 and R34 models. If you do actually need both inner and outer adjusters to get the camber right, then make sure you order 2 X kits.

Sorry, I missed the swaybar question before. Usually increasing the rear anti roll reduces the understeer, so that is where I would start. Increasing the caster also helps a lot.

:D cheers :)

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