Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

what is the maximum amount of neg. camber you can get with the KCA347

Depends on the ride height.

At standard ride height, 375 mm (centre of wheel to guard), they have 0.25 degrees negative standard. Plus 0.25 degrees on the standard adjuster, plus 0.75 degrees with one KCA347 kit = 1.25 degrees negative. With 2 x KCA347 kist that's 2.00 degrees negative.

At the lowest recommended ride height, 340 mm (centre of wheel to guard), they have 1.75 degrees negative. Plus 0.25 degrees on the standard adjuster, plus 0.75 degrees with one KCA347 kit = 2.75 degrees negative. With 2 x KCA347 kist that's 3.25 degrees negative.

As usual, that varies slightly from car to car.

:P cheers :whistling:

  • Replies 714
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

sk, i was just wondering about the price on the front camber adjust bushes, u have listed the rrp at $320, i was just on the whiteline site and the price on there is only $163 for the set(it says it contains two items), is there a mistake there?? dont want to pay too much if i dont have too, cheers

sk, i was just wondering about the price on the front camber adjust bushes, u have listed the rrp at $320, i was just on the whiteline site and the price on there is only $163 for the set(it says it contains two items), is there a mistake there?? dont want to pay too much if i dont have too, cheers

Whiteline lowered the price after I set up the listing, so the new Group Buy price is Whitelines current price -15%. I confirm all prices in the PM's, so you know exactly what each item costs.

Note that Whiteline's online prices exclude GST (so add 10%) plus freight.

:) Cheers :)

I am off to Bathurst tomorrow for the 12 Hour race, the race team is running (not a Skyline) and I have to do my Team Manager thing. I will be back on Tuesday, so please excuse the slow responses to posts and PM's.

:pirate: cheers :ph34r:

  • 2 weeks later...
Hey Gary,

Your inbox is full. Trying to get the replacement part off you.

Cheers,

Shiha'b

Lot's of PM's the last 2 days, took a while to respond to them all, the inbox is now clear.

PM reply sent

:P Cheers :(

Hi Gary,

I got my Bilstein strut setup from you probably a year ago now. Performs well through the Adelaide hills, really need to get the bigger sway bars to tighten it up a bit though.

My car makes a 'crack' noise when reversing on full lock, just a single crack.

My tyre mechanic said it is the suspension, something to do with the spring rotating on the end cap, and then letting go. Do you know if this is true? Does something need to be lubricated in there?

Thanks for your help,Trav.

Gary,

need the full kit, got no money - paranoid that the shocks with the custom valves will run out and I'll be left having to go to Fulcrum for the Teins.

I know you've said you're dependant on other countries making big orders to get more stock.

How is the current availability?

May have to get the shocks then later get springs, bushes, sway bars etc as I assume the shocks are the only customised/hard to get bits?

Mike

Hi Gary,

I got my Bilstein strut setup from you probably a year ago now. Performs well through the Adelaide hills, really need to get the bigger sway bars to tighten it up a bit though.

My car makes a 'crack' noise when reversing on full lock, just a single crack.

My tyre mechanic said it is the suspension, something to do with the spring rotating on the end cap, and then letting go. Do you know if this is true? Does something need to be lubricated in there?

Thanks for your help,Trav.

Mine does the same thing (it's jmac's old 34) on full lock sometimes.
Hi Gary,

I got my Bilstein strut setup from you probably a year ago now. Performs well through the Adelaide hills, really need to get the bigger sway bars to tighten it up a bit though.

My car makes a 'crack' noise when reversing on full lock, just a single crack.

My tyre mechanic said it is the suspension, something to do with the spring rotating on the end cap, and then letting go. Do you know if this is true? Does something need to be lubricated in there?

Thanks for your help,Trav.

The spring doesn't rotate, it's not a MacPherson strut, Skylines (R32/33/34) are double wishbone front and rear. Maybe worn radius rod bushes or upper control arm bushes.

Stabiliser bars are the best value for money handling upgrade you can do, road or track.

:( Cheers :D

Hey there, I sent you a PM a few days ago about a setup for R33 GTSt.

Can you please respond?

Cheers

PM reply sent, sorry for the delay, lots of PM's over the last couple of days, took me a while to catch up.

:( cheers :D

Gary,

need the full kit, got no money - paranoid that the shocks with the custom valves will run out and I'll be left having to go to Fulcrum for the Teins.

I know you've said you're dependant on other countries making big orders to get more stock.

How is the current availability?

May have to get the shocks then later get springs, bushes, sway bars etc as I assume the shocks are the only customised/hard to get bits?

Mike

Plenty of stock of R33GTST Bilsteins at the moment. Will be able to accept credit card payment from 1st May.

:( cheers :D

The spring doesn't rotate, it's not a MacPherson strut, Skylines (R32/33/34) are double wishbone front and rear. Maybe worn radius rod bushes or upper control arm bushes.

I dont know much about suspension, but im guessing radius rod bushes and upper control arm bushes are different from:

Front Castor Kit, Camber Kit Front, Sub Frame Alignment and Stabaliser Bar sets you sell...

Are these tricky to replace? Am i best to take it somewhere and get them to supply and install new bushes?

PM reply sent, sorry for the delay, lots of PM's over the last couple of days, took me a while to catch up.

:) cheers :)

SK, I don't actually have a PM from you. Maybe you replied to someone else or didnt hit send?

Cheers

Lee

I dont know much about suspension, but im guessing radius rod bushes and upper control arm bushes are different from:

Front Castor Kit, Camber Kit Front, Sub Frame Alignment and Stabaliser Bar sets you sell...

Are these tricky to replace? Am i best to take it somewhere and get them to supply and install new bushes?

Radius rod bushes = Front Castor Kit

Front upper control arm bushes = Front Camber Kit

Rear upper control arm bushes = Rear Camber Kit

Rear Sub Frame Alignment Kit = Pineapples

Stabiliser Bar = anti roll bar = sway bar

The recommended suspension workshops are on page one of this thread.

You need a 10 tonnes press to remove the old, worn out, standard, fixed bushes and to replace them with the new, polyurethane, adjustable buhes. Except the Rear Sub Frame Alignment Kit and the Stabiliser Bars, they are DIY with normal home garage tools.

:domokun: Cheers :yes:

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jap premium will be 100 RON. You should use 98.
    • The exhaust gases are at their highest temperature as they leave the exhaust port and enter the manifold. They cool as they flow through the manifold because they transfer heat to the manifold and the manifold loses heat to the surrounding environment. Thus, inevitably, the exhaust gases are cooler as they enter the turbo compared to when they entered the exhaust manifold. So, yes, the exhaust manifold can easily get as hot as the turbine housing. Having said that, you will generally see the highest temperatures where the exhaust gases have to slow down or they are concentrated into one area - which is usually the collector on the manifold and in the turbine housing, because the gases slam into the metal at those places, increasing the convective heat transfer coefficient and transferring even more heat to the metal than they might just flowing past elsewhere. Exhaust manifold heat shields are a good idea - certainly for the stock manifold they are there from the factory. People seldom have anything like that on a tubular manifold because they are hard to achieve. Some might wrap a tube manifold with fibreglass tape - but this has a reputation of leading to cracked welds. The best case is generally to put ceramic coating onto the manifold to prevent it getting as hot (internal coating) and radiating/convecting heat into the bay (external coating). All the real heat from a turbo comes from the exhaust side. The gases entering are at ~800-900°C and the steel/iron gets nearly that hot. The compressor side is only going to heat the charge air up to <<200°C (typically not much more than 100°C). So that's nothing, by comparison. The compressor is not a significant source of engine bay heat.
    • Late to the party, specifically joined this forum as I just bought one of these and this thread has been a gold mine of info. If the OP is still around, mind if I ask what gas you been putting in yours? Mine has a Japanese sticker in the cap saying premium but it seems to get way worse mileage on premium (95) than 91. I always thought it was meant to be the other way round🤷 I do think Nissans claimed "6l/100km" is a bit fantastical 😂
    • Does exhaust manifold get hot as turno exhuast side? I have a turbo cover to managr heat in the engine bay but  nothing is covering the exhaust manifold before turbo   i know as turbo does compress air, the temp does go up however does that mean exhaust manifold would be as hot?
    • It's excellent but I'm still breaking it in so I'm not 100% sure where it'll end up. I would say it's about 15% heavier than stock and the smoothness of the slip zone is quite progressive but you need to be a little patient compared to stock or it'll bite hard and stall. Stock I got away with absolutely horrid clutch control. Like I said before I couldn't even tell where the clutch would grab when it was stock so releasing way too quickly without enough revs it would just slip and the revs would drop lower than ideal but that would be the end of it. Currently there's a bit of a nasty clutch judder if I don't apply enough revs + find the exact wrong point of the slip point in the clutch pedal but it feels like it's slowly resolving as I drive it more. I would not recommend the competition clutch unless you really need the extra clamp force. I think this clutch combined with the Nismo operating cylinder is going to be exactly what I want. Enough bite that you need to remember the release point to avoid stalling or rough shifts, but progressive enough that it's not hard to drive by any means and not heavy at all. I tried a "super single" clutch on my friend's 997.2 Turbo 6MT and that was absolutely horrid. It runs an electrohydraulic power steering pump for the clutch power boost so there's zero feedback in the clutch pedal and there was a horrific clutch shudder well after break-in due to the lack of marcel springs or hub springs in the friction disk. It felt like the slip zone was the thickness of a single toe twitch as well so it was almost impossible to avoid stalling it unless you gave it a ton of revs and just dumped the clutch instead of trying to be smooth with it. I was terrified of pulling out in front of traffic. I have also tried some kind of "super single" on an EK9 and that makes this twin plate Coppermix look like a stock clutch. Releasing the clutch pedal even slightly too quickly feels like you're getting rear-ended. The pedal is extremely heavy as well and there's no vacuum assist like the GTR.
×
×
  • Create New...