Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  Hotwire said:
SK, I don't actually have a PM from you. Maybe you replied to someone else or didnt hit send?

Cheers

Lee

Hi Lee, I get 30 to 40 PM's a day, no space to keep my responses either, the PM box fills up too quick. Sorry, but I don't remember every PM. If you have not yet received a reply, then please try resending the PM.

:domokun: Cheers :yes:

  • Replies 714
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Hi Gary,

Why would my car suspension "rattle" over bumps, small or large. It did it with my old Tein HA's, and kept doing it with my Bilstein setup. Is it normal for skylines with lowered suspension to experience this? Or is it worn bushes, etc?

Thanks mate

Gary, you have PM regarding the R33 setup :)

Also, for a 345mm wctg height, will 1 or 2 of the KCA347 kits be needed to sort the rear alignment?

With the coilovers I have now it sits at a height of 345, and the tyrewear is horrible on the rear, only getting 1/2 a tyres worth on the outer edge. It appears to be about -2.5/3.0 degrees now, so would it need 2 kits?

Cheers

Edited by Hotwire

Hey gary, i posted in the spring thread about the spring rates on my R31 for the kings but really mainly after the rears, thats all kewl and am eagerly awaiting the news, but my next Q is i have now read the group buy section and was wondering what you can do for the rear of my skyline. Now i know i can fit S13 shocks in, so that might help, but is there a replacement for the 31 and is it worth me actually changing over to bilstiens?? I drive the car to and from work every day(costs me a fortune) and also drag race it. I'm looking to lower the spring rate in the rear to give a better ride comfort and squat in the rear but still give that sporty feel. Is it worth goign to east coast suspensions(round the corner) or can you help me out. The chassis feels a little underdeveloped(compared to the rest of the car) and would like to see what i can do with it.

Cheers

Robb

P.s. tried Pming you and your box is full. thanks

Hi Gary, still waiting on an R33 front camber kit to arrive at DTS, Belco ACT. Sent two PMs, no reply. 10 days ago you said shipping was delayed due to a company merge and that you would have a shipping number/con note that night or the next day - no response since then. Can you PM me or something so I know what's going on? Thanks.

Hi mate,

Just had my car serviced and I need to replace my front castor rod bushes and lower control arm bushes.

Was wondering if you could give us a quote for these for a r33 gtst?

Do they come as as set for front and rear or are they separate?

Hi guys, my inbox is filling up faster than I can respond to the PM’s. I usually get 30 to 40 PM’s a day. With the current delay in delivery, that has increased to 40 to 50 per day and I just can’t keep up with that sort of volume. Particularly as some of the more technical PM’s take 10 to 15 minutes each to reply to and my available time has decreased dramatically for reasons which will become obvious shortly.

I feel that I need to “broadcast” a Group Buy update until I can clear the backlog of PM’s. Here is the current situation;

1. A little back ground first. As you may be aware Redranger and Whiteline merged a couple of months ago. The first step was a merger of Sales, Marketing and Distribution functions and Whiteline’s Minto premises were simply not large enough to accommodate this. So the premises adjacent to Redranger at Somersby were acquired and that was utilised for the larger, merged entity. Some people have taken this as a sign that Redranger “took over” Whiteline, when that is in fact not the case, it is a true merger.

The Whiteline manufacturing premises at Minto remain. More news on that shortly.

2. How this affects the Group Buys. Many of the products that I specified for the Group Buy Kits are unique, it is what makes the kits “work” better than any other Skyline suspension update. This uniqueness has been possible because of my knowledge of the systems within Whiteline (plus Bilstein, of course). The Redranger merger has disrupted that system and the “unique” (to the Group Buy) parts have not been flowing through as they had previously.

3. The good news. I have been working 14 hours a day, every day, for the last week, including yesterday (Saturday) helping to clear that backlog of orders. As a result, all of the Group Buy orders should be delivered this week. At this point I can’t tell you what day your individual order will be delivered. But as they flow through the system I will inform you of the con note numbers as soon as they are issued (the normal system).

In conclusion, I know you probably don’t care about the reasons, you just want your stuff and that is totally understandable. But I felt I had to give some background and let you know that I am working on clearing the backlog (personally as it happens) so that we can return to our previous prompt responses. Please hang off on the PM’s, I promise you that I haven’t skipped off to Brazil with your money. That your stuff will be delivered very shortly.

:) Cheers :(

PS; the fact that I am posting this at 5.55 am on a Sunday morning should give you some indication of the work load right now.

  Trav33 said:
Hi Gary,

Why would my car suspension "rattle" over bumps, small or large. It did it with my old Tein HA's, and kept doing it with my Bilstein setup. Is it normal for skylines with lowered suspension to experience this? Or is it worn bushes, etc?

Thanks mate

It is most certainly not "normal". Something is worn, loose or broken, so you need to carefully inspect all the suspension components that you didn't replace with the Group Buy kit. Start with anything aftermarket that has spherical bearings, they are the most likely candidate.

:) cheers :(

  Hotwire said:
Gary, you have PM regarding the R33 setup :)

Also, for a 345mm wctg height, will 1 or 2 of the KCA347 kits be needed to sort the rear alignment?

With the coilovers I have now it sits at a height of 345, and the tyrewear is horrible on the rear, only getting 1/2 a tyres worth on the outer edge. It appears to be about -2.5/3.0 degrees now, so would it need 2 kits?

Cheers

Every car is different. For camber kits this is what is usually needed for each height increment, note that all measurements are centre of wheel to guard;

Standard (new) height is 380 mm front and 370 mm rear

360/350 mm needs only the standard rear camber adjusters

350/340 mm needs 1 front camber kit and 1 rear camber kit

340/330 mm needs I front camber kit and 2 rear camber kits

Since your 345 mm rear falls in the 2nd group, I would suggest that 1 kit will be enough. Since it is much easier (cheaper) to fit the first kit, they go in the upper arms, I would suggest that you do that first and see what the result is. Fitting a second kit, they go in the uprights (hubs), and so the time (cost) to fit is much higher.

:) cheers :(

  Midg3t said:
hey sk. i would like to get two pairs of springs and two pairs of sgock absorbers. price should be round 1280 mark

Close, $1240 is the cost (freight is free for orders over $500).

:) cheers :(

Hi Gary, you said to let you know if I don't have the kit by now but also that PMs won't get through to you, so I'm posting here as well - I don't have the kit yet.

  sl33py said:
Hi Gary, you said to let you know if I don't have the kit by now but also that PMs won't get through to you, so I'm posting here as well - I don't have the kit yet.

I have cleared 50 or so PM's this morning, so the inbox has a litte space.

You camber kit was delivered on the 30th April, PM sent with details.

:) Cheers :(

FAR OUT. #(*%(*%& I wonder if it's just sitting there - I told them to ring me when it came. I'll find out Monday morning when they open, thanks man. I know you've done a lot of hard work for everyone here :) I'll let you know what happened either way. Cheers Gary.

Hiya SK

When you get a chance could you please give me a quote on front and rear sway bars, and set of pineapples for a r33 gts-t coupe. Appreciate the help.

Cheers

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...