Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

After talking to Garage-13 I wanted to know, how many people would be interested a 260rs bodykit. B)

I have some prices for you - (these are if we can get 5 people interested in the part)

260rs Front Bar :D $420

260rs Rear Bar :) $400

260rs Side Skirts :) $220

Post any comments or suggestions here :D

Do you think that is a fair price? :huh:

*UPDATE*

Im getting more quotes from different places. Post up your bodykit suggestions.

Edited by Stagea RS-Four

What about the wing? I already have one but just for other peoples sake can you get a price on those?

Also, are there series 2 versions available for those of us with NEO power :huh:

I'm hopeing to get some interest in the front bar as well. Thats the part I'm after. :D But for this group buy to work (in regards to the wing) we need to get at least 5 interested. Then we come to the exciting delema of loaning a genuine wing to base the mould on. If you can help with this, please post here. :huh:

The wing for sure!! :huh:

I think thats the only thing my car needs, as l like its current kit.

Where as we move to something plain...such as mine <_< lol, I like your Stag very much NRGIZD. Very nice :D

After talking to Garage-13 I wanted to know, how many people would be interested a 260rs bodykit. B)

I have some prices for you - (these are if we can get 5 people interested in the part)

260rs Front Bar  :)  $420

260rs Rear Bar  :)  $400

260rs Side Skirts :) $220

Post any comments or suggestions here :)

Do you think that is a fair price? :)

*UPDATE*

Im getting more quotes from different places. Post up your bodykit suggestions.

hey mate im after side skirts, do u have any good pics of the 260rs ones close up ?

dont want em too chunky and outrageous :D

ta

Brad

Who on here owns a 260rs? Could you please take some pics of the front bar, side skirts and rear bar?

Anyone have any idea how we would go about getting the Genuine kit ofr the moulds?

I can get someone to mould them for us.

Not sure on prices but he is a good mate

www.topstage.com

Can get CF, FRP, Plastic, whatever we want... i prefer plastic (doesnt crack/break in crashes/bottomings out)

Could you get some quotes for us lad? :)

  • 1 month later...

Yes, we just need the part to mould... i cant really quote anything until there is a front bar for moulding, so someone would have to buy the kit first and then we could go ahead and get quote

I gaurentee though, that the price wouldnt be high or anything.

Ill try and speak with freddy early next week (i start uni then, and he is close to uni.. soo ill see)

Gotta speak about bonnets too

Ok,

I went today. Currently there is a shortage of CF (he buys from japan) and he will have a batch in soon. The prices i asked for are as follows

Fibreglass bonnet, OEM - $550-600

Fibreglass structure, CF top layers, OEM - ~$750

Id like everyone who wants one to speak up, because if we go ahead, i would have to leave my bonnet with him for ~4 days to make the mould, so i am not going to do that for only a couple of people (i drive a lot, couldnt loose car for too long unless its a must)

The body kits i will send him pictures of and he will quote from there, i just hope the front bar is a single peice, makes things a lot cheaper.

Naturally, the more people we get interested, the cheaper and cheaper everything gets.

I test fitted a R33 GTST sideskirt, and it fit no problems. Infact, was a TINY bit too long. Just make sure the rear door can open.

Once i get prices for the front/side/back, we could all probably chip in for the kit from japan and then just get it replicated. Also, are the prices from Alex (G13) from yahoo japan? Or is it a plastic kit like std?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They are what I will be installing. 640s for me.
    • Hmm... From my experience you get about 0.25° camber change per mm of RUCA length change. So, to correct from -2.5 up to less than -1° (or, more than -1° if you look at the world as a mathematician does) then you'd be making 6-8mm of length change on the RUCA. From a stock length of 308mm, that's 2-2.5% difference in RUCA length. My RUCAs are currently very close to stock length - certainly only 2-3mm different from stock. I had to adjust my tension arms by 6mm to minimise the bump steer. That's 6mm out of 210, which is 2.8%. That's a 2.8% change on those, compared to a <1% change on the RUCAs. So the stock geometry already has worse bump steer than is possible - you can improve it even if you don't change the RUCA length. If you lengthen the RUCAs at all, then you will definitely be adding bump steer. Again, with my car, I recently had an unpleasant amount of bump steer, stemming from a number of things that happened one after another without me having an opportunity to correct for them. I only had to change the tension arm lengths by 1mm to minimise the resulting bump steer. (Granted, I also had to dial out a lot of extra toe-in in the rear, and excessive rear toe-in will make bump steer behaviour worse). Relatively tiny little adjustments having been made - the car is now completely different. Was horrifying how much it wanted to steer from the rear on any significant single wheel bump/dip. And it was even bad on expansion joints on long sweepers on freeway entry/exits, which are notionally hitting both rear wheels at the same time. My point is, the crappy Nissan multilink is quite sensitive to these things (unlike the very nice Toyota suspension!). And I think 99.75% of Skyline owners are blissfully ignorant of what they are driving around on. Sadly, it is a non-trivial exercise to set up to measure and correct bump steer. I am happy to show my rig, which involves nasty chunks of wood bolted to the hub, mirrors, lasers, graph paper targets and other horrors. Just in case anyone wants to see how it is done. I'll just have to set it up to take the photos.
    • What do you have in that bad boy ? Ill go with the 725cc since I'll be going with Nistune ( would definitely like more engine protection but Haltech is too far out of reach at the moment... plus, Ill probably have a pretty safe tune as its a daily, not gonna be chasing peak power 24/7 ahahah ). Are Xspurt a safe choice?  Pete's great. He didnt mention anything about traction arm length so I reckon it may be good. When I get some new wheels/tire later down the road I'll ask him about it and get his opinion on em. I heard from Gary that you've got the bilsteins too, are you running the sway bars too? and what other suspension goodies do you have installed or would recommend?
    • In true Gregging style...  
×
×
  • Create New...