Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i just got a front pair of these shocks revalved for stiffer springs etc, and they are AMAZING.

ive had japanese coilovers (tanabe) before, ive borrowed my mates cheap and nasty HSDs and now ive got bilsteins, they are so much better than anything else ive had.

both more comfortable and handle heaps better

cant wait to take em out to the track!

Edited by salad

if this group buy is still on can i check the availability of the front Hduty swaybar - BNF28 and the rear XHduty swaybar - BNR26X

is there a kit which includes the bushes and links aswell?

if this group buy is still on can i check the availability of the front Hduty swaybar - BNF28 and the rear XHduty swaybar - BNR26X

is there a kit which includes the bushes and links aswell?

PM sent

:no: cheers :D

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi sydneykid

im interested in these and can i have sum prices inc shipping to melbourne PM me..

-Front & Rear Springs (im looking to lower my car only 25mm front and rear coz i have 19inch" rims and any lower it will rub. so would u supply lower 25mm springs?)

-Front Bilstein & Rear Bilstein Shocks

cheers

bill

SK i have lowered my car quiet abit...

Center of rim to gaurd on both front and rear is 295mm, and im not exaggerating at all lol

I am goin to grab a few bits off you to go with some whiteline stuff i have (mainly after some traction so adjustin the camber as much as i can), is bein that low going to damage anythin (apart from my kit and exhaust.. hahaha)??? I noticed better handlin when it was 10-15mm higher but i prefer the low look.

SK i have lowered my car quiet abit...

Center of rim to gaurd on both front and rear is 295mm, and im not exaggerating at all lol

I am goin to grab a few bits off you to go with some whiteline stuff i have (mainly after some traction so adjustin the camber as much as i can), is bein that low going to damage anythin (apart from my kit and exhaust.. hahaha)??? I noticed better handlin when it was 10-15mm higher but i prefer the low look.

Shoot, where to start............just a short list of stuf that your are risking;

1. Drive shaft breakage is possible

2. CV joints will wear very fast (they are also soaking up extra power due to the extreme angles)

3. Steering tie rods (front and rear) are under extreme loads

4. Every single bush in the front and rear suspension will wear out excessively fast

5. The strut towers will eventually crack (both front and rear) due to the lack of bump absortion

6. The rear cradle will crack around the upper and lower control arm joints also due to the lack of bump absorbtion

7. You will suffer poor traction, so it won't stop or accelerate anywhere near its potential

8. The front and rear windscreens are stressed members, so they will eventually crack as well

9. Every electronic component is being subject to higher than its design levels of NVH, so they will eventually start to fail one by one

10. Your chiropractor will make a small fortune fixing your lower back problems

That's pretty much the major items, there are quite a few minor ones of course, but I think you get the drift.

:D cheers :(

Edited by Sydneykid
Alright Gary... whats the lowest i can be without stressing the suspension etc too much?? :O Dont tell me 330mm coz thats heaps hahaha

I use camber correction as the first measuring stick as to how much a car can be lowered. When the camber gets grossly excessive, then you know you have lowered it too far. This is what is usually needed for each height increment, note that all measurements are centre of wheel to guard;

Standard (new) height is 380 mm front and 370 mm rear

360/350 mm needs only the standard rear camber adjusters

350/340 mm needs 1 front camber kit and 1 rear camber kit

340/330 mm needs I front camber kit and 2 rear camber kits

Using that rule of thumb, 340 mm front and 330 mm rear is a low as I would go, keeping in mind that they handle best at around 350/340. So even at 340/330 you are sacrificing handling for looks.

:thumbsup: cheers :no:

Edited by Sydneykid

SK,

will the shocks work on standard gtst springs? and just to confirm that they are height adjustable? what's the advantage of going to the whiteline springs also?

i want something that i can adjust about 20mm lower, but put back to standard if i need to

but i also want the ride to be comfortable as this car probably won't ever see track work

and finally, just confirming that the price is for a pair? so a set of 4 shocks will be around $1140?

thanks,

Warren

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • We will review wtf is going on, but if you made any donations let me know and i will follow it up with the admins
    • See, that button sounds like perfection Duncan! My eyes really don't like light shining at them from a dash when I'm driving. Being part red colourblind, I've found for most cars that I can change colours on, I set everything to red, so my eyes see the elast amount of colour! I miss normal gauges in cars
    • bro, knowing the Japanese in  the 90's, i wouldn't be surprised if they shared components across their model lineup.
    • Maaaan so many "little" things  i rly hope my old RB20 would be "ok" and not too bad. I try to learn what and what not do i need. I look at crossmember at it looks different...even parts numbers are different. Wiring and all that i rly do not know...yeah someone mentioned the speedo thing. On that yoke clip. I rly do not know what can and cant be done "custom" so that is why iam asking to know and not be suprised 🙂  I know what it looks like  
    • Oh, there's also the gearbox crossmember which will probably be different between the small box and the big box, and the wiring loom will probably need to be modified, because the plugs for the switches etc, will probably be different. And I think the speedo on the small box R34s is from somwhere stupid, like the diff, possibly, so you'd need to work out what needs to be done about that (assuming it is different). I think the thing you need to realise is that the front end of that yoke is a large hollow tube with splines on the inside that mates with the splines on the box's output shaft. It is a dedicated thing - not available "aftermarket". They were made to suit that box, by the car's OEM.
×
×
  • Create New...