Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i just got a front pair of these shocks revalved for stiffer springs etc, and they are AMAZING.

ive had japanese coilovers (tanabe) before, ive borrowed my mates cheap and nasty HSDs and now ive got bilsteins, they are so much better than anything else ive had.

both more comfortable and handle heaps better

cant wait to take em out to the track!

Edited by salad

if this group buy is still on can i check the availability of the front Hduty swaybar - BNF28 and the rear XHduty swaybar - BNR26X

is there a kit which includes the bushes and links aswell?

if this group buy is still on can i check the availability of the front Hduty swaybar - BNF28 and the rear XHduty swaybar - BNR26X

is there a kit which includes the bushes and links aswell?

PM sent

:no: cheers :D

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi sydneykid

im interested in these and can i have sum prices inc shipping to melbourne PM me..

-Front & Rear Springs (im looking to lower my car only 25mm front and rear coz i have 19inch" rims and any lower it will rub. so would u supply lower 25mm springs?)

-Front Bilstein & Rear Bilstein Shocks

cheers

bill

SK i have lowered my car quiet abit...

Center of rim to gaurd on both front and rear is 295mm, and im not exaggerating at all lol

I am goin to grab a few bits off you to go with some whiteline stuff i have (mainly after some traction so adjustin the camber as much as i can), is bein that low going to damage anythin (apart from my kit and exhaust.. hahaha)??? I noticed better handlin when it was 10-15mm higher but i prefer the low look.

SK i have lowered my car quiet abit...

Center of rim to gaurd on both front and rear is 295mm, and im not exaggerating at all lol

I am goin to grab a few bits off you to go with some whiteline stuff i have (mainly after some traction so adjustin the camber as much as i can), is bein that low going to damage anythin (apart from my kit and exhaust.. hahaha)??? I noticed better handlin when it was 10-15mm higher but i prefer the low look.

Shoot, where to start............just a short list of stuf that your are risking;

1. Drive shaft breakage is possible

2. CV joints will wear very fast (they are also soaking up extra power due to the extreme angles)

3. Steering tie rods (front and rear) are under extreme loads

4. Every single bush in the front and rear suspension will wear out excessively fast

5. The strut towers will eventually crack (both front and rear) due to the lack of bump absortion

6. The rear cradle will crack around the upper and lower control arm joints also due to the lack of bump absorbtion

7. You will suffer poor traction, so it won't stop or accelerate anywhere near its potential

8. The front and rear windscreens are stressed members, so they will eventually crack as well

9. Every electronic component is being subject to higher than its design levels of NVH, so they will eventually start to fail one by one

10. Your chiropractor will make a small fortune fixing your lower back problems

That's pretty much the major items, there are quite a few minor ones of course, but I think you get the drift.

:D cheers :(

Edited by Sydneykid
Alright Gary... whats the lowest i can be without stressing the suspension etc too much?? :O Dont tell me 330mm coz thats heaps hahaha

I use camber correction as the first measuring stick as to how much a car can be lowered. When the camber gets grossly excessive, then you know you have lowered it too far. This is what is usually needed for each height increment, note that all measurements are centre of wheel to guard;

Standard (new) height is 380 mm front and 370 mm rear

360/350 mm needs only the standard rear camber adjusters

350/340 mm needs 1 front camber kit and 1 rear camber kit

340/330 mm needs I front camber kit and 2 rear camber kits

Using that rule of thumb, 340 mm front and 330 mm rear is a low as I would go, keeping in mind that they handle best at around 350/340. So even at 340/330 you are sacrificing handling for looks.

:thumbsup: cheers :no:

Edited by Sydneykid

SK,

will the shocks work on standard gtst springs? and just to confirm that they are height adjustable? what's the advantage of going to the whiteline springs also?

i want something that i can adjust about 20mm lower, but put back to standard if i need to

but i also want the ride to be comfortable as this car probably won't ever see track work

and finally, just confirming that the price is for a pair? so a set of 4 shocks will be around $1140?

thanks,

Warren

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Out here E90s are the cheapest way into a sporty-ish car because everyone knows just how expensive the repairs can get. 8-10k USD for an automatic 335i. 
    • Noted. Have noticed BMW are more 'high maintenance' for sure. They've attracted my attention as I think the used car prices seem reasonable vs other options, and the extra quality overall vs a commodore / camry / corolla or similar of the same vintage is appealing, especially the interior, and they are more on the sporty side whereas the others mentioned can be more cruising or economical A-to-B only.
    • Haha yeah I know, this is SAU after all, why are we talking about BMW's of all things!? I hear you on the 'don't have to worry about it' side of things. Having been fortunate enough to be have been able to buy a brand new motorbike or two...never really enjoyed them as much as I'd have liked as you worry so much about where you park it, will it get scratched, stolen, attempted theft, knocked over, etc...and yes dirty. Older less valuable bikes you can just go where you want and park it wherever and not really worry that much in comparison. And who cares if it gets dirty! Never owned a V8, and have had my eyes on VE / VF commodores for years but with their prices climbing so high, the M3 has come into focus more as prices are much closer than I've ever seen...is it a potential contender now?...of course need to factor in the S65 'maintenance' especially and like you said general M car 'tax'. One can dream anyway. But more on the reality front - did read the whole 330i thread as well and was a great read too, both threads enlightening as I've never even driven one of these cars! I do recall 330i didn't seem to have the same amount of issues for almost the same car (turbos and related differences notwithstanding)...perhaps down to getting it earlier in it's life so looked after better than the 335i? Perhaps so as your 130i has been good and quite similar, so finding a car that's been looked after well is the especially-crucial-BMW-first-step.
    • Nice. Dont worry about the time of not running. My current skyline hasn't run since I bought it. About 8 years ago.
    • It's also worth noting that I am heavily and unconditionally biased. I've had a lot of cars including some GTRs a fair while ago. I love my BMW's now a lot. They make no sense a lot of the time and the guys on here remind me regularly that I could get something else that does what I want better and cheaper. If you're going to take on an older BMW it's definitely a commitment. If you bail on it early you'll lose money and also the ability for it to put a smile on your face. Stick with it and it just gets better.  f**k I should get into advertising.  
×
×
  • Create New...