Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gtst Whiteline & Bilstein Suspension


Sydneykid

Recommended Posts

Hi Gary,

Can you please advise the final cost of the complete kit sent to Brisbane please.

I am chasing the entire kit, need to replace my super-stiff and annoying Tein coilers front and rear the rest of the suspension is standard.

Will i need the bump stops?

Kind regards

Simon

Edited by Simonster
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Gary,

Can you please advise the final cost of the complete kit sent to Brisbane please.

I am chasing the entire kit, need to replace my super-stiff and annoying Tein coilers front and rear the rest of the suspension is standard.

Will i need the bump stops?

Kind regards

Simon

PM sent

:D cheers :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

shocks went in today and work great!!

car rides nicely and very smooth still - onyl slightly harder than stock, but definately handles better and sits 24mm lower than stock

for everyone's reference, i used the bilstean shocks on stock springs dropped down 3 circlip grooves...

i might get the rear guards rolled for precaution given that i'm running 9" rears with +40 offset

a question for everyone though:

when i picked the car up, they said that something else was also worn out. they pointed it out on the car, but i don't know what its called. it connects from the lower control arm to something under the engine. looks like a rod with a ball-shaped thing on the end

can anyone enlighten me as to what it is and whether or not it actually might need replacing?

oh, and i had the suspension fitted at Vitanza Tyres in Fortitude Valley, Brisbane. Highly recommended for tyres and suspension

cheers,

Warren

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeha from what ive been told they prevent movement of the control arm under accel and braking in order to prevent castor and camber changes in the steering geometry...But as i sed im unsure whether this is the part he means...need a pic to be 100% sure

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Theyre caster rod/radius rod bushes.

i just had mine replaced coz they were completely cracked

the group buy has them, KCA331.

otherwise theyre about $360 from nissan i think

the stock ones arent adjustable whereas the whiteline are.

I'd say thats the only difference....probably last longer too

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Anyone considering an R32GTST kit should move quickly as there is only 1 set of R32GTST rear shocks left in stock. No production is currently scheduled, so it may be many months before Bilstein do another production run.

There is no alternative shock available, R33 and R34 rear shocks are too long and R32GTR rear shocks have the fork at the bottom not the bush.

:wub: cheers :yes:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, as the manual says....assembly is the reverse of disassembly, no tricks worth mentioning Much better (for me)
    • In my case, the standard wheel I had was in good condition but the buttons had more wear, so I swapped them across from the original wheel from the car. The plastic rear cover is held on by 4 tabs, and once the wiring is removed you can get access to 2 screws on each side the hold the buttons in From there I just swapped the wiring over. What was interesting is the standard style wheel is 2.0kg but the carbon fibre one is 50% heavier at 2.9kg. It even has a weight inside the wheel at the top to make up for some sort of imbalance in the design. weird
    • Once the airbag is off, to remove the steering wheel.... Undo the 2 plugs into the clock spring, and the horn connector from it's clip. Hit the 19mm nut with a rattle gun (preferably) or if you don't' have one, you probably want an assistant to hold the wheel in place while you use a breaker bar to undo the nut Then, screw the nut back on 3 turns, and pull the wheel sharply towards you. If that doesn't work hit it medium force with a rubber mallet on either side, or possible behind if you can get there. If that all fails (it shouldn't!) you might need a steering wheel puller
    • So, to next task....the carbon fibre steering wheel was either an expensive factory option or a chinesium special. Either way, I don't like either the flat bottom or thick ring style, so it had to go So...to remove the steering wheel.... First, disconnect battery negative and stomp on the brake pedal for a few seconds. Then, remove the small circular covers on each side of the wheel's rear surround to uncover the airbag clips. You need to push something like a flat bladed screw driver through, to push the steel clip inwards and pull the side of the airbag forward. Once you've done the easy side, same on the centre console side. You can see the tab you are shooting for circled in red Then, disconnect the horn spade connector and for the yellow airbag plug you need to get something small under the black locking tab to pop it out, then the connector releases......airbag is off  
    • @99RS4just wondering if you ever took photos of the footwell lighting / how you bypassed the controller, im keen to haver footwell lighting come on when I open the doors too   
×
×
  • Create New...