Ghostrider Posted October 7, 2005 Share Posted October 7, 2005 that just sounds like a lot of hassle to me. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> George, This is what Disco means, same as what RSX has done to his in this pic. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/85767-my-radiator-finally-has-a-crack-in-it/page/2/#findComment-1628243 Share on other sites More sharing options...
discopotato03 Posted October 7, 2005 Share Posted October 7, 2005 (edited) Thanks Dennis , it looks like a major engineering feat dosen't it ............ Seriously though for about 1/4 - 1/3 of the weight of a DR30 radiator the R32 GTR one offers probaby 40% more cooling capacity , remember those cars made nearly 280Hp standard in a mild state of tune and do not overheat . Recently some mental giant wanted to argue the toss over copper vs aluminium as a heat sink medium for radiators , I will agree that copper has the legs on ally but remember this important fact . Copper radiators ares stuck together with solder which has a high lead content and you guessed it - lead is a very POOR conductor of heat energy . Most would say "so what , the tanks are soldered on the core end plates" . They would be right but how do they think the gills are stuck to the tubes ? right again with our poor contucting solder . You could say this fin to tube insulation is a great way to drop heat sink efficiency - but it was a cheap way to manufacture radiators for a long time . Aluminium rad cores are furnace brazed and transfer heat in the water tubes to the gills much more quickly and efficiently , there is less resistance to airflow through these later cores so its a win win situation . Cheers A . Edited October 8, 2005 by discopotato03 Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/85767-my-radiator-finally-has-a-crack-in-it/page/2/#findComment-1628515 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghostrider Posted October 8, 2005 Share Posted October 8, 2005 Thanks Dennis , it looks like a major engineering feat dosen't it ............Seriously though for about 1/4 - 1/3 of the weight of a DR30 radiator the R32 GTR one offers probaby 40% more cooling capacity , remember those cars made nearly 280Hp standard in a mild state of tune and do not overheat . Recently some mental giant wanted to argue the toss over copper vs aluminium as a heat sink medium for radiators , I will agree that copper has the legs on ally but remember this important fact . Copper radiators ares stuck together with solder which has a high lead content and you guessed it - lead is a very POOR conductor of heat energy . Most would say "so what , the tanks are soldered on the core end plates" . They would be right but how do they think the gills are stuck to the tubes ? right again with our poor contucting solder . You could say this fin to tube insulation is a great way to drop heat sink efficiency - but it was a cheap way to manufacture radiators for a long time . Aluminium rad cores are furnace brazed and transfer heat in the water tubes to the gills much more quickly and efficiently , there is less resistance to airflow through these later cores so its a win win situation . Cheers A . <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Mate, You got me, I'm going to buy a BRAND NEWIE for my PNV, as I have the DR thermo fans I'm going to mount them on the back and dispose of the motor driven fan mounted on the water pump. For a few minutes of stuffing around, I'm gunna have the best. Gotta mean somethin in the power gain dept. To quote an old friend that used to race Toyota Celicas when he found the all metal GT bumpers vs Ozzy LT rubber/metal were 5kg lighter "It's gotta mean somethin" Cheers, Dennis Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/85767-my-radiator-finally-has-a-crack-in-it/page/2/#findComment-1628834 Share on other sites More sharing options...
george.bryant Posted October 8, 2005 Author Share Posted October 8, 2005 English please.... Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/85767-my-radiator-finally-has-a-crack-in-it/page/2/#findComment-1628873 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghostrider Posted October 8, 2005 Share Posted October 8, 2005 English please.... <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Sorry George, I forgot you were in KIWI land. Remind me one day to explain the meaning of that word. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/85767-my-radiator-finally-has-a-crack-in-it/page/2/#findComment-1628932 Share on other sites More sharing options...
discopotato03 Posted October 8, 2005 Share Posted October 8, 2005 (edited) My Bluebird also used the DR30 fans and shroud but it was not by choise . I would never remove a viscous hub engine driven fan particularly on a turbo car . These fans force feed air through the engine bay keeping the underbonnet temps down which is important with red hot hair dryers lurking within . All thermo fans do is dump hot air in the bay when the water temp is already a bit high . They'll never move as much air as the conventional one can . Incidentally the viscous hub takes the load off the engine when things are nice and cool . With thermos the water thermostat is not the only temperature control device and it should be , as I said the fans only come on when EVERYTHING is hot . If you still think the power loss is significant use a larger water pump pulley ie L20B or FJ20, if its running constant high revs the water pump will be cavitating anyway so kill two with one . Cheers A . P.S All RB powered Skylines use an engine driven fan , the GTR fan itself would be better than the 22 yr old L series wind mill - RB26's red line at 8000 , nuf said . Cheers again . Edited October 8, 2005 by discopotato03 Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/85767-my-radiator-finally-has-a-crack-in-it/page/2/#findComment-1628936 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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