Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HI all,

I am trying a different tact this time as my last thread started a fuel price discussion lol.

A 94-96 R33 Manual in good nick inside and out

Stock as Stock can be

reasonable k's 80 -100

How much would you pay?

Where would you buy from local or OS?

Private or Dealership?

Recommendations on all of the above, i am in Townsville QLD so home state is preferable for rego etc

THanks Stink

  stink said:
HI all,

I am trying a different tact this time as my last thread started a fuel price discussion lol.

A 94-96 R33 Manual in good nick inside and out

Stock as Stock can be

reasonable k's 80 -100

How much would you pay?

Where would you buy from local or OS?

Private or Dealership?

Recommendations on all of the above, i am in Townsville QLD so home state is preferable for rego etc

THanks Stink

Japan: 14.5 - 15 K drive away with rego.

You can get a stocker R33 grade 3-4 for about 450, 000 - 500, 000 YEN

Dealership : 18K

Private : 17K

  Kennedy said:
Japan: 14.5 - 15 K drive away with rego.

You can get a stocker R33 grade 3-4 for about 450, 000 - 500, 000 YEN

Dealership : 18K

Private : 17K

$15k drive away with rego etc...as if!

ive been looking at imports and they're more than that...you might get 1 in good condition with low kms for that price before rego, tyres etc!

if you know of some for the price you said, point me in the right direction and ill buy 1!

Hi, how's it going? I'm ex tsv myself and wanted to help you out. if you can get down to brisbane, there are heaps of car yards there that stock good cars. some of these cars can be a little over priced as they know how desirable these cars are.

I was on christmas leave, wandering around, having a look at some car yards when I found my Impul R33R, a complete tuning shop car (a genuine collector's car) and they didn't even know what they had! I'm just saying there are bargains out there.

If you want to go with a private importer, you can save a lot of money, IF you can put up with the wait for the car to arrive. You can also get boned by some dodgy bastards.

I'm just saying do your research, get lots of photos and a hard copy list of all aftermarket parts on the car BEFORE it leaves japan and again as soon as possible after it lands. I say this because some of my friends imported, got absolute bargains for thier cars, only to have some f**k steal some guages and the stereo during shipping. :)

Also, don't be wowed by stickers and other useless stuff, they can hide cracks/dents etc. :(

Hope you find something great!!! :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...