Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK. First up, I've searched but didn't find what I'm after.

Now, my car is an R32 GTR. It has cat-back 3.5 or 4inch exhaust I think, HKS pods, HKS cooler pipes, EBC, plus a HKS turbo timer and Apexi multi checker(PFC yet to go in). I think thats all the performance mods. (I know TT & checker aren't perf.) I only have a Greddy boost guage that reads in kg/cm2.

Turbos are believed to be standard, but I really have bugger all idea if they are or not; I can see Garrett on one of them though, thats it.

At what revs should I be getting boost? And when should I have full boost?

Currently I start getting positive pressure around 3500ish, then about 0.5kg/cm2(7psi/0.49bar) at 4000rpm. I think its at full boost or almost by about 5000rpm. Full boost I think is about 1.1kg/cm2 (15.5psi/1.079bar). I

Is this normal? I think its a bit laggy, but this is my first GTR and first turbo so I dont know....

As I said above I have PFC sitting at home to go in, and I'll probably get new front pipes+dumps+hiflo cat put on when I get PFC in, so that should spool it up a bit earlier I hope.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/86003-gtr-turbo-spool-up/
Share on other sites

on my GTR with stock IC, stock dumps, stock front pipes and just 3 inch cat back system. my car hits 14psi at around 3700 or 3800. it was higher than that but a little fiddling with the boost controller and with the cam gear timing it spools up much earlier.

full boost at 5000rpm is way to high for a stock GTR. they do feel a bit laggy compared to other standard turbo cars though.

Thanks Richard.

Thats what I thought. It might not be 5000rpm, but its almost that high.

Anyone have any ideas what'd make it boost up late?

I don't really. It hasn't had a tune yet, so I'm hoping it'll get sorted out when I get the PFC in and tuned, and new front pipes and dumps.

Anyone else have any input?

When I got my GTR it was very slow to climb onto boost. It has 2510s, HKS dumps, MINES ECU, standard modified airbox, and had a 3.5' exh. I added front pipes and gutted the cat, and it made a major difference, makes full boost about 1000rpm earlier now...... GUT THAT CAT!!!!!!

Thanks guys.

There doesnt seem to be any big dents in the exhaust, but I'll get under her tomorrow and have a better look. I know sweet bugger all about how the EBC works, and little about cam wheel settings, but I'll try to look into them.

I'll try to take her out for a drive tomorrow (I'm at work now, without GTR), and plot revs vs boost level properly. For reference, I was in second or third when I was testing, not first, it revs out too quickly.

I'm thinking its just the timing is out, but I don't know. It could have aftermarket turbos for all I know; I have no reference point as to what it SHOULD be doing.(except you guys)

OK, I didnt have much time to test her out, but it is actually WORSE than I thought.

I really need someone else in the car to help me tell what boost at what revs(that should happen tomorrow), but I did a few runs using the shift alarm on my multi checker. In second gear mostly, and third a couple of times.

At 4000 its making about 0.4kg/cm2. At 5000 its making about 0.8kg/cm2. At 6000 its making nearly full boost, just under 1.1kg/cm2.

I know there is something wrong now. Any sugestions as to what would make it do this? Bad turbo/s? Timing way out? Cracked hoses?(had one earlier)

One of the truckies at work said it sounds like it is missing on one cylinder, but he is the only one who has said this, and the car has been around many people in the know(mechanic friends, compliance guys etc). I suppose it could be; I'm an ex Subaru guy, so I'm used to a bit of a burble.

We'll check that out tomorrow too, just to make sure it isnt that.

whoa, .4 at 4000rpm...should be spoolin faster than that i think...meybe a vaccuum leak? wastegates jammed open? turbo missing bits to make compression (like wheels):P? check the hoses would be a first, stock should spool from 2000ish, well mine did when they worked, have gt2530s now and even they hit full boost about 3700-4000rpm?

gl finding the problem!

Its an old school HKS 'Electronic Valve Controller'. It has three buttons that you can press for 'low', 'high', or 'manu', and a dial on the right hand side, for the manual setting, that goes from min-max. I have no idea what this is actually set at.

When I was testing I had it on 'manu', and the dial turned to 'max'. Max boost is estimated at 15psi

Tomorrow I'll try to test it on 'low', 'high' and a few different levels of the 'manu' setting, just to see if that makes any difference.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is it a dog or synchro box? I guess either way, if it is new and crunching in one gear only, it has to come out and go back to the shop to check/measure as there is either an assembly or manufacturing issue
    • These are small points I should actually add to my original post. GKtech makes an extended slave line for this conversion. It's what I use, and it works well. You'll also need a CD009 slave cylinder.  S/R Chassis Z33/Z34 Conversion braided clutch line As for transmission sensors, you'll need to both extend the wiring and replace the connectors. I can't recall which is which, but one is your neutral switch and the other the reverse switch. As they are just switches, just test for continuity with your transmission in neutral or reverse to figure out which is which. Connectors:  VQ35 neutral Switch Connector | Wiring Specialties VQ35 Reverse Switch Connector | Wiring Specialties 
    • I’ll try and see it could be the release bearing. As for the 4th gear grind maybe clutch doesn’t disengage properly cause it is slightly like very slightly hard to go into first could be due to the slab cylinder pin being short uni clutch is a twin plate.   Ive attached some assembly photos hopefully you can open the link and see maybe detect what’s wrong https://share.icloud.com/photos/0dc2YvW__Hl6jl-l2_0jejjpg https://share.icloud.com/photos/09e0jkWOK-vP48c1cfY6u3ViA https://share.icloud.com/photos/0b4rDmh5R7pK7fb1VtND73a3g https://share.icloud.com/photos/05eeUi_6dC4DVi80jOUYDgb0g https://share.icloud.com/photos/06335TgY1XxyIJal_wkdQLhzw
    • Yeah for sure that is peddle adjustment 
    • What are your thoughts on this after having it for a while, worth getting?
×
×
  • Create New...