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Well you can get your discs machined for about $25 each, or you can get new discs for $200 or so. I know what i'd do...

Just keep getting them machined whenever they get ridges in them. You can keep getting them machined until they get too thin, then they will have to be replaced. You can find the minimum thickness allowed on the DBA website www.dba.com.au

  • 3 weeks later...

easy to remove disc

all you do is jack up car, take off wheel, unbolt caliper (2 bolts only) and then pull disk forward.

Rears can be hard to pull off because of drum brake, there are 2 screw holes in disk, you screw in appropriately sized bolts and it pushes against the hub to remove it easily.

anyway, there is a 5 or 6 page tutorial, but what i just wrote sums it up pretty good....

Is it really necessary to machine rotors when they have for example a 0.5-1mm groove in them?

When I got my new pads fitted I was sure I needed the rotors machined as I had a grove in them but the workshop said not to worry as the pads will wear them flat soon enough anyways and most places will tell you to machine them as to bring the thickness down fastwer to sell you some new rotors.

They mentioned that I would only need maching if they were out of round which they weren't. I was bamboozled they didnt machine them and charge me money as I mentioned I thought they needed it.

I don't know where your going with the groove thing.

People get em machined because they are warped, as in shudders on braking because the disc just isn't dead staright/flat anymore.

Come for a drive in my car and you'll know what i mean.

Feals similar to terrible wheel balance but only under braking.

My steering wheel shakes...

i'm thinking of upgrading to slotted too so might pass on the machining for a full replacement

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