Jump to content
SAU Community

Bridgestone Re55 Prices From Donnellans Box Hill.


Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Mark Donnellan has asked me to update the discounted prices for Bridgestone RE55's. The price has increased slightly for some sizes. If the size you want is not listed below, contact Mark to enquire and mention Skylines Australia.

Since the other thread was closed I've started a new one with the current prices. DO NOT WHORE THIS THREAD.

Details:

Contact Person: Mark Donnellan

Donnellan's Box Hill (Bridgestone Tyre Centre)

837 Whitehorse Road, Box Hill

Ph: (03) 9898 9591

Melway Ref: Page 47 B9

UBD map ref: Page 256 N14

Prices:

[ 18" tyres ]

Bridgestone RE55 225/40/18 . . . . . . . $376 per tyre

Bridgestone RE55 245/40/18 . . . . . . . $383 per tyre

Bridgestone RE55 265/35/18 . . . . . . . $418 per tyre

[ 17" tyres ]

Bridgestone RE55 235/45/17 . . . . . . . $348 per tyre

Bridgestone RE55 235/40/17 . . . . . . . $351 per tyre

Bridgestone RE55 255/40/17 . . . . . . . $375 per tyre

Comparison of tread pattern between older Bridgestone 540s and current Bridgestone RE55:

bridgestone.jpg

Enjoy B)

Cheers.

Mate I don't think you can really compare the Direzza DZ101's to the RE55's.

If we're comparing road tyres, I'd put the DZ101's against Bridgestone S03's, and I'd still prefer the bridgestones because they're damn good tyres!

But if we're talking R compound semi-slick race tyres, I prefer the RE55's over Yokohama's or any other brand.

oh derr im a retard i didnt realise the Re55s were like semi clicks. my bad sorry i thought they were one of the sports range tyres. jeez i feel like a retard haha

Please don't hide this away. I had terrible trouble finding the old thread last time I went looking.

It's cheaper for me to use your connections and ship them to sydney than it is to buy them here with a club discount from a club sponsor, let alone from any other shop up here.

It depends - but not ages.

Put it this way - I usually do say 10 track days a year and go a for a number of spirited drives but otherwise rarely use my car and I still go through 2 sets of these a year.

But without track days I'm guessing 10,000-15,000km's only.

I've had them for 1.5 track days and around 6,000 kms total road use.

I wouldn't expect them to last any more than 3,000 kms of road use plus a track day.

Oh and they're a very noisy, tramlining, irritating road tyre. If your car doesn't hit the track then I would spend a few more bucks and get a good road tyre (say ContiSport Contact 2s or Michelin Pilot Sports) that are simply awesome on the road and will last 30,000kms

thanks matt do you know how the compare against the dz101's

Sorry ot get off topic paul i don't know what rims size you hav but Dz101's in 225 50 16 and 235 or 245 35 r17 have been discontinued so this means the 16" version have dropped to $220 ish from $300 mark but if you go to a beaurepairs or anyone with big dunlop dealership you can get them for a good price :cheers:

but yest can't compare to re55's

  • 4 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Meanwhile, 20+ years ago, I pulled out the 105mm hole saw and went straight down through the inner guard in front of the airbox to get my stormwater pipe cold air intake in. Right behind the two stock holes for the intercooler pipes. Those have no reinforcement (apart from a couple of robust pieces of steel pipe through them!). I feel that the Australian vehicle standards crews put way too much emphasis on "maintaining the crash performance" of cars and not enough consideration of "any crash is a new and wonderful experiment with a random selection of parameters and you will never be able to tell if an extra 80mm hole through some sheet metal caused a significant difference...but if you close your eyes and squint at the whole structure, engage your engineering brain and have a good think about it, you'd have to expect that it would do jack all."
    • You guys are focussing on the wrong part of this post and have headed off on an irrelevant tangent!  Clearly I'm not going to put my most prized physical possession (well it will be once I'm finished it...) on a piece of shit contraption that might fail and crush me or my car!  At no point was that even implied I was trying to buy a butchered P.O.S that some shonky clown had thrown together with a gasless MIG....  Either way I would love to see the build quality of a rotisserie that has failed.  Actually I'd love to see a photo of one that has failed full stop.  Google fails to deliver.  Never happened?? I'll either make one that won't fail or will buy one that wouldn't fail! End Post.....
    • Yeah, if you can't breathe for more than about 2 minutes, you're cooked.
    • Well, all the power should be getting dissipated across the starter motor. Therefore, ideally, the voltage drop across the earth lead should be convincingly close to zero. Certainly you'd want it to be only a volt or so at max, because otherwise that volt doesn't turn up at the starter to do what is required. A car can probably survive a bad enough earth to crank and start with only 9V or so at the starter motor, maybe even a bit less. But you're seeing only 8V at the battery terminals when cranking, so there can't even be that much available over at the starter, which simply won't do. I would have thought that you couldn't pull enough current (with a healthy starter) to make the battery drop to 8V locally. But I was ignoring the possibility that the starter is in fact crook. If it has shorted windings (or maybe the solenoid is borked and shorting to earth) then I guess it could pull a stack of current and not even look like wanting to turn over. So follow the other boys' reccos too. Because they are just as likely at this point.  
    • Depending where the whole gets drilled, and what country/state you're talking about, quite likely not.   Under ole vehicle mod rules in NSW, VSI06 allowed for drilling of holes in "non structural" areas. So you could drill a hole through the inner guard, and not need engineering. You couldn't drill over seams, and it was advised to add extra reinforcing around the hole, as well as something to protect from sharp edges.   Again, it's all about finding the documentation for where the mod is to be done, AND then being able to explain the situation, with the documentation as to why you don't need engineering, with a positive attitude, to any one of the likes eg, police, vehicle inspector, etc.
×
×
  • Create New...