Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

under the new scheme joe blogs cant bring in a car he has to get someone with the complince of the car he wants to bring it in in for him if it has slight damage it has to go straight to the panel shop before it can be complied once at the complience shop if it has any goodies they get taken off and the car gets complied as standed once complied the car can be sold as standard or with the the goddies BUT THE CAR HAS TO BE SOLD STANDED FIRST AND THE COMPLIENCER CANT PUT THE GODDIES ON IN THE SHOP THAT HE COMPLIED THE CAR.I allso heard that compliencing will start off at $4000 plus tyres.

Its all very up in the air for the next few months as to how it will work out.. nowhere have i seen a very definitive answer unfortunately. What is will do with amongst all the confusion is stop people importing, which to me is a large (hidden) reason for the changes. Too many powerful cars at too cheap a price, who would buy a local 2nd hand "local" car for over $10k these days? when most the time for the $ you get an import that is superior in nearly every respect? It kills the 2nd local hand market, so as you can see there would be a lot of pressure on government by various people in parts of the local industry to stamp that out.

Apparently as they ship quite a few cars to Australia (have no idea what it is in % terms of total).. you would think a few japanese workshops would move in to benefit the scheme...

1. Buy modded cars at auction or preauction.

2. Fit standard parts for $ which they can build huge stocks of locally.

3. Sell you the car at premium and ship you the extra parts for $ later, or sell separately.

4. They win and make good $ on every account

The japanese are good business people (as we all know).. and as their economy isn't going too great. Actually shit i just had a business idea (see you in japan :D ) What am i missing???

greygirl1976: hmm, not sure whether i follow that.

Originally posted by Diablo_2097

oh, and someone else said that you don't need compliancing for 15 year old cars now, is that true, or is it just that you can get them complianced with mods

It's not true to say that a 15+ car doesn't need 'compliance' - what it doesn't need is a compliance plate, BUT it still has to 'comply' with the ADR's that were applicable in the year the car was built. In Vic an engineers inspection and certificate is required (approx $500) on top of the mods needed (intrusion bars, unleaded filler, seat belts, child anchor points, etc). Also Vicroads will want to inspect the car for themselves - costs nothing they can demand more work if not satisfied. A car with lots of mods might be given a bit more scrutiny....

Originally posted by greygirl1976

under the new scheme joe blogs cant bring in a car he has to get someone with the complince of the car he wants to bring it in in for him if it has slight damage it has to go straight to the panel shop before it can be complied once at the complience shop if it has any goodies they get taken off and the car gets complied as standed once complied the car can be sold as standard or with the the goddies BUT THE CAR HAS TO BE SOLD STANDED FIRST AND THE COMPLIENCER CANT PUT THE GODDIES ON IN THE SHOP THAT HE COMPLIED THE CAR.I allso heard that compliencing will start off at $4000 plus tyres.

are you on drugs?

hers some facts for you guys.

im at theh 2nd stage of the 3 stage process.

i have passed stage 1 and stage 2 audit,so i am now virtually iso9001,im awaiting the inspection of my sample vehicle from the people in canberra and then we can start importing and complying.

vehicle must be standard,incl bodykits,exhaust etc,etc and have no history of damage.

when a import application is sent to canberra it has to have auction report and a signed declaration from the seller in japan listing non standard items and previous accident repairs.

under the previous cpa system,all cars were supposed to be standard also,but was never inforced,yet to be seen if this will be the case under the new system.

but we have been told random checks from canberra are likely.

costs will definately be higher,the labour and paperwork are considerably more,for instance new genuine brake pads $320,carbon cannister-$250 etc.

at this stage it looks like we may have to invest $15k on a epa type noise tester.

  • 9 months later...

Import Market is pretty much confusing for everyone at the moment

Some of you guys already mentioned that imports are killing the Local Second hand Market Which I Agree with, Also .Government to stop import Process I also Agree with that Partly

My Point of View is Imports will not %100 stop but they will be more expensive in near Future so if you really want one you pay the Price for it.

I Guess Government's Main Concern is Local $ getting Exported (not staying in the country) However They are Still Making Money from %10GST & %15Duty Altough registered importers can claim the GSt Back this is out of the question for private importers, also Don't Forget LCT extra cash for Government.

As Some of you may Already Know Yes the car has to go straight to complier out of the wharf, & Complier in case of Not Loosing his/her license will do the best they can & You will have to fork out for it, seriously importing modified cars unless 15years old is out of the question .

I Believe This is fair, Government had to come up with something to stop the backyarders, every tom dick & Harry were importing rust Buckets Halfcuts, Clocked Back crap etc (No Offence for Genuine Importers )

From Now on you hold on the what you got

Get a Genuine Car & Keep it

That's the way I See it

I Hope I don't offend anyone out there these are just my thoughts..

Thank you..

Way to go with digging an ancient thread..

My car was imported already modified by the previous owner.. thousands of dollars of stuff on there. If the option was ever available I'd prefer to bring in a modified car, but of course that isn't now possible. In fact, I probably wouldn't bother importing myself these days unless it was like a car that was fairly new anyhow (R34 GT-T, latter model R33 GTR) or something very specific I was after. Seeing as it has to be stock, it better be good in stock form.

Importing a stock R33 GTS-T for $18k isn't too attractive to me, and if I wanted to modify it another $10k to even get it handling and performing half decently. Now things such as 180sx, s13, R33, R32 and things just aren't worth importing if you ask me as there is too much locally at equivelent prices. You end up paying more to import basically so unless you're looking at around the $30k bracket hardly seems worthwhile. So the government has already done what it set to acheive, and and that is kill the demand.

Already specialist importers that were doing a booming trade before the RAWS scheme, and those dealers that were starting to offer a few imports in conjunction with their regular 2nd hand stock, seem to be less and less these days. So already they have helped destroy a few businesses (whether possibly shonky or otherwise).

Thing is government makes a hell of a lot more money on a 2nd hand import, compared to the sale of a local car.. but still they want to kill it.. stupid ****s :P

Just remember this come federal election time folks!

Given that the application of option 1 will probably have the opposit effect to that which DOTARS claims it wants to achieve you could assume that they are working to an agenda that they are not publishing. They will have the full support of the Major car companies and other interested parties. The opposition from the general public and majority of import car owners or wouldbe owners will be pathetic. The government and regulising bodies appear to be turning a blind eye to DOTARS blatent use of lies and misinformation.

I feel pretty sure that option 1 will be the one.

" Australia is a nation of sheep....and most of them live in cities around the coast"

51jay: I'd definitely agree with you there. In 10 years when young people are still driving 25 year old hotted up S13 around and they're still selling for $10k, then we'll have our lovely government to blame.

Well at least I know I did make an effort and sent in a submission.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
×
×
  • Create New...