Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im using aluminium, buying a boxload off ebay from usa.... hhm, didnt even consider the rolling of the lip. Where can you get that sort of thing done?

Cheers, BW

I get my lipping done at GCG, takes about 10 seconds per lip. Mick's Metalcraft has one, as does Performance Metalcraft, so I guess all of the pipework fabricators would have one. So much easier than welding on a wire loop.

:P cheers :)

  • Replies 129
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Thanks very much.

I'll work out what pipes are needed, cut down to length, and then head off to a 'metalcraft' store here in Adelaide to get some lips done.

Cheers to you for all your informative posts!

Brendan

I am just getting my piping done at my local tuning shop. I prefer getting all my work done at the same place and they can only do steel (dont have an alloy welder)

I dont care about the extra what, 5-10kg. I have come to realisation that a fat bitch will stay fat, no point to try an shed some pounds.

I am getting my pipes made like Ska's

http://stagea.st.funpic.org/082105/stagea12.JPG

http://stagea.st.funpic.org/082105/stagea22.JPG

http://stagea.st.funpic.org/082105/stagea23.JPG

http://stagea.st.funpic.org/082105/stagea26.JPG

Ill post some photos when the car arrives back.

At the same time, ill start a new thread and post photos of my cooler setup without the front bar on. Also, ill post those above of Ska's as Ska's setup. Would be good for a IC thread as terminal and burns both have kits, but me and Ska have custom stuff, so people will be able to easily see the difference.

  • 2 weeks later...

Updating. Will repost in a few months time in the dynographs section.

Now the Apexi intercooler is on, I'll be going back to Graham West Workshops in around 2 weeks time for the installation of the following:

Bosch 040 fuel pump, sitting low in the tankm with direct feed to battery wiring @ 13.8v

high pressure fuel lines, as per SK's suggestions

Nismo adjustable fuel pressure regulator

Apexi Super Ignition Timing Converter

Nissan Z32 air flow meter

plus a retune of the Apexi SAFC at 10psi, with dual stage boost set up to 12psi for those 'quick sprints'

Saving up for the hiflow of my spare SII R33 turbo in 12months time - it was meant to be a R34 Neo unit, but it isnt... =(

Anyways, Im expecting mid 150's at the 4wheels at 10psi, and hopefully goes up a bit at 12psi.

Brendan

  • 2 weeks later...

Hiya all,

well the Stagea is now in the shop, the SITC is being installed as we speak as well.

query though: has anyone thought to use the 'emanage' piggyback rather than the SAFC / SITC / EBC combo? The tuners were surprised that I didnt go the E-manage route; admittedly I told them I knew nothing about the emanage until after I had the SAFC installed.

anyone thought of using the Emanage in their Stagea? if so, what sort of results have you got?

E-Manage has problems with the RB ignition systems. Quite a few R33GTST's and R34GTT's have blown ignitors/coils trying to tune via E-Manage. The E-Manage logic also has problems with the autotrans retard on gearchange. Plus they cost twice as much as they should for what they do. With the SAFC and the SITC you have the best system of piggy backs around.

:) cheers :D

Don't forget about the Unichip as an option for a piggyback computer. They also have EBC modules for them too :)

Worked fine on my old Stagea. Still had a slight dip in power (R&R) but I'm sure a tuner with experience with R33/R34's would be able to get a good tune out of it.

I pulled a tad under 170rwkw at 12psi with the Unichip with basic mods.

If you keep your eye out for one you can get them for about $350-400, and remember that they do both fuel and igntion maps and work fine with the auto's.

J

Thanks mate - I knew there was a 'reason' for you doing the SITC / DFA combo. Cool. Now at least I know more about the piggybacks and Rb engines than my tuner does! :)

Thank you very much for the information, not that I was going to change my route as such, just wanted to find out what the go was with e-Manage seeing my tuner brought it up.......

Will post up how it all goes.

Brendan

Cheers Jay....

Well its all happening now as we chat, so Im past the point of no return. Im sure the 2 Apexi units will work well together, and expect 155+ at 10psi and 165+ at 12psi.

Cheers for the note on the Unichip.

Hiyas all,

If you're intrested Ive had the car dynoed now, picking it up later this arvo, will post a dyno graph in the Stagea Dyno section later.

High pressure fuel lines were seen to be unneccesary, as the standard lines were in excellent condition and it may have been going backwards to replace the perfect condition jap items with Aussie spec stuff.

Bosch 040 fuel pump is done, SITC is installed, Nismo fuel pressure regulator is doing what its supposed to do and the injector duty cycle has come down a fair bit, & the Z32 afm is working and being read by the SAFC.

Apparently the tune is ok, for the budget parts Ive installed, a little up and down though. Have been reccommended that when I hiflow the turbo that I take off the FPR and use larger injectors, and take off the SITC, SAFC and EBC and replace it with an Autronic full computer.

Seems like a good idea, need 5k first! So I'll save for a year and a half and see what I can do there, but wont be worrying about all that for a fair while now. I'll be happy as it is for a fair while Im sure.

The Stagea is putting out 150kw....... up 7%.

Edited by bwilkeson

150 is pretty good.

Do you have a full exhaust? The std dump/front/cat's are pretty restrictive i would say and you should see a nice power increase.

I predict I am around 140awkw (or is that optimistic) with just full split/high flow cat/catback and fmic and 10psi?

140 is about right, thats what mine was on with those sort of mods. Maybe more due to the GTR cooler and the split dump pipe.

Ive got the full 3inch system with single dump pipe, best to see the South Australian section, titled "My Beasts", for details on the stagea and the fireblade.

  • 3 months later...
  • 2 months later...

had a look thru this thread and just need to know a few things guys. i have a series 2 (neo engine) would a turbo from a vl crumpledore be suitable as it will bolt straight on? as they are relatively thick on the ground, would it be a suitable swap as they are a bit higher flow rate as stock aren't they? or would it be better to get a completely different unit. if so any reccomendations within reason cost wise.

i dont want to go silly on the horsepower side of things but i want it to be a bit more responsive etc. without having to modify the engine internals at all.

i have a turbosmart e-boost2 fitted and am geting the exhaust done shortly, want to get a fmic as well in readiness for if i need to upgrade the huffer, but not sure which path to take?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Very nice - I also have a 92 GTST and hardly see any others around these days
    • When I need something else to edit, I use Movavi. A friend who does video editing on a daily basis recommended me) it's an easy video cutter to use for beginners
    • I need to edit some videos for work but I'm not good at all this. Which video editor can you recommend?
    • I think you're really missing the point. The spec is just the minimum spec that the fuel has to meet. The additive packages can, and do, go above that minimum if the fuel brand feels they need/want to. And so you get BP Ultimate or Shell Ultra (or whatever they call it) making promises to clean your engine better than the standard stuff....simply because they do actually put better additive packages in there. They do not waste special sauce on the plebian fuel if they can avoid it. I didn't say "energy density". I just said "density". That's right, the specific gravity (if you want to use a really shit old imperial description for mass per unit volume). The density being higher indicates a number of things, from reduces oxygen content, to increased numbers of double bonds or cyclic components. That then just happens to flow on to the calorific value on a volume basis being correspondingly higher. The calorific value on a mass basis barely changes, because almost all hydrocarbon materials have a very similar CV per kg. But whatever - the end result is that you do get a bit more energy per litre, which helps to offset some of the sting of the massive price bump over 91. I can go you one better than "I used to work at a fuel station". I had uni lecturers who worked at the Pt Stanvac refinery (at the time they were lecturing, as industry specialist lecturers) who were quite candid about the business. And granted, that was 30+ years ago, and you might note that I have stated above that I think the industry has since collected together near the bottom (quite like ISPs, when you think about it). Oh, did I mention that I am quite literally a combustion engineer? I'm designing (well, actually, trying to avoid designing and trying to make the junior engineer do it) a heavy fuel oil firing system for a cement plant in fricking Iraq, this week. Last week it was natural gas fired this-that. The week before it was LPG fired anode furnaces for a copper smelter (well, the burners for them, not the actual furnaces, which are just big dumb steel). I'm kinda all over fuels.
    • Well my freshly rebuilt RB25DET Neo went bang 1000kms in, completely fried big end bearing in cylinder 1 so bad my engine seized. No knocking or oil pressure issue prior to this happening, all happened within less than a second. Had Nitto oil pump, 8L baffled sump, head drain, oil restrictors, the lot put in to prevent me spinning a bearing like i did to need the rebuild. Mechanic that looked after the works has no idea what caused it. Reckoned it may have been bearing clearance wrong in cylinder 1 we have no idea. Machinist who did the work reckoned it was something on the mechanic. Anyway thats between them, i had no part in it, just paid the money Curiosity question, does the oil system on RB’s go sump > oil pump > filter > around engine? If so, if you had a leak on an oil filter relocation plate, say sump > oil pump > filter > LEAK > around engine would this cause a low oil pressure reading if the sensors was before the filter?   TIA
×
×
  • Create New...