Hicas

[Guest tkch55]

Hi guys

i've done a search on this but couldn't really find the answer to this.

for an R33 gts-t, if i disable hicas by just pulling the fuse out of the fuse box without fitting a lock bar, would the rear wheels have some freeplay?

logically i thought it shouldn't have any freeplay or otherwise nissan wouldn't even put it on (there'll be freeplay before hicas activates at speed <80km/h), but i guess i may be wrong or otherwise there's no point for people to make/buy lockbars

thanks

Edited September 4, 2005 by tkch55

[JCMarshall_Law]

No doubt, sydneykid will post a reply to this, but since I'm here I might as add my 2c.

The system is failsafe so your rear wheels are not going to flail around. I've taken the fuse out for a run at a track day with no serious effects. Although on my way home (fuse out) all od a sudden I needed 15degrees of steering to get the car to go straight which went away 100m down the road, so there must be some movement allowed there.

I'm going with one of GTRgeoff's lock bars, if you really want to remove the HICAS just spend the $150. Can't wait to get it Geoff!.

[Sydneykid]

Hi guys

i've done a search on this but couldn't really find the answer to this.

for an R33 gts-t, if i disable hicas by just pulling the fuse out of the fuse box without fitting a lock bar, would the rear wheels have some freeplay?

logically i thought it shouldn't have any freeplay or otherwise nissan wouldn't even put it on (there'll be freeplay before hicas activates at speed <80km/h), but i guess i may be wrong or otherwise there's no point for people to make/buy lockbars

thanks

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

JCML covered it pretty well, he has read some of the 100 or so posts on dissabling HICAS, that you would have found if you had done a search.

"Freeplay" implies thsat there is some slop in the system, when it's new there isn't. But that isn't the issue, as you would have found out if you had down a search.

The problem is movement, the rear rack can move under load without the HICAS connected, as you would have read in some other peoples posts if you had done a search.

The best solution by far is to totaly remove the HICAS, there is a "How to" guide on it As you would have ........well....you get the idea

cheers

PS; did I mention that you should do a search?

[Guest tkch55]

i have done a search and went through some threads, maybe i didn't go through this thorough enough, so my apologies for wasting the internet resources

however, what i was really after is if there's any potential danger if the fuse is taken out

here's the reason

my mate who i bought the car from had a stalling problem, so he took it to a workshop and their solution to the stalling problem was to pull the hicas fuse out.

they said the hicas in this car is fauty, and it is turning the wheel regardless of the speed of the car, giving the engine extra load and making it stall, so for safety reason as well as to prevent the engine from stalling they took the fuse out. (it did help to prevent the engine from stalling to a certain degree though)

i don't know whether this is true or not, and i'm a bit skeptical about it.

however, the vague feeling from the rear is still there whether i have the fuse in or not even at speed< 80k, even at a straight run

hence here i am trying to weight out whether or not i should put the fuse back in before the lockbar goes on.

thanks for your input guys, much appreciated

[Sydneykid]

i have done a search and went through some threads, maybe i didn't go through this thorough enough, so my apologies for wasting the internet resources

however, what i was really after is if there's any potential danger if the fuse is taken out

here's the reason

my mate who i bought the car from had a stalling problem, so he took it to a workshop and their solution to the stalling problem was to pull the hicas fuse out.

they said the hicas in this car is fauty, and it is turning the wheel regardless of the speed of the car, giving the engine extra load and making it stall, so for safety reason as well as to prevent the engine from stalling they took the fuse out. (it did help to prevent the engine from stalling to a certain degree though)

i don't know whether this is true or not, and i'm a bit skeptical about it.

however, the vague feeling from the rear is still there whether i have the fuse in or not even at speed< 80k, even at a straight run

hence here i am trying to weight out whether or not i should put the fuse back in before the lockbar goes on.

thanks for your input guys, much appreciated

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I am sorry I don't understand the question. Is it;

1. Will dissabling the HICAS fix a stalling problem? No, find out what the real problem is and fix that. The ECU has power steering load compensation, so increased power steering load from the HICAS should make no difference to the idle.

2. Is there any danger if the fuse is taken out? Yes, you have no hydraulic pressure holding the rear steering rack stable. Given enough load the rack will move. It might do it slowly and you will find yoursewlf driving down a straight road with the steering wheel turrned. Or it might do it suddenly and you will find what the scenery looks like in close up.

Both #1 and #2 are band aids, find out what the real problem is and fix it. In the case of HICAS, the best fix is to remove it.

cheers

Edited September 5, 2005 by Sydneykid

[Guest tkch55]

thanks for your help SK, sorry for not explaining everything clearly, (time of the night of that post!) but you've answered my questions.

i was more after #2, but you've also enlightened me by explaining #1.

greatly appreciated