Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I’m in the process of building up an rb30 twin cam turbo engine using all the na rb30 gear and the na non vvt rb25 head! I have had the bottom end already fully rebuilt and have just purchased the head! What i basically need doing is:

1) Pulley’s relocated, drilled and tapped

2) Check the cylinder head itself and reseat the valves and machine the head if necessary

3) Bolt head to bottom end with head gasket

4) Put timing belt on and torque to around 20kg’s

5) I’m hoping for a compression ratio of around 8.2:1, was hoping you could check if possible

6) I’m also hoping for a squish (quench) Deck height + head gasket thickness of 1mm to 1.37mm.

What i'm basically after is a workshop/engine builder you guys would recommend i take this to get done?

Edited by mr_rbman
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/86478-rb30-twin-cam/
Share on other sites

2) Check the cylinder head itself and reseat the valves and machine the head if necessary

i remeber joel's head job cost him $1000, which is recondition his head plus some port job

ye i know, not lookin for any porting as i know thats where most of the money goes!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/86478-rb30-twin-cam/#findComment-1566372
Share on other sites

i remeber joel's head job cost him $1000, which is recondition his head plus some port job

That was an expensive head job, and didn't even come with a full service.

Still... the recondition was worth every penny. :P

Edited by Cubes
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/86478-rb30-twin-cam/#findComment-1567624
Share on other sites

To reseat the valves they have to pull the head apart and reassemble. This is what costs the $$. :huh:

I could have a quick look at the head and suggest if it needs shimming due to lack of seat tension.

Hopefully it doesn't.

Drilling the tensioner locater is easy, don't worry if it goes in to the water galley behind, throw some plumbers tape on the thread when you screw it in.

The bloke that did my motor doesn't work at City Dismantlers any more, he went and bought him self some earth moving equipment.

He does however build motors from home, I have his number, They arn't half arsed jobs, he knows his theory and has been in the game since a young kid. BUT.. he builds motors, not bolt heads on to motors. :(

To simply bolt the head on, drill tap tensioner, fit cam belt, check valve/piston clearances he charged $200.

Obviously to rip a head apart and assemble you are looking at $300-$400 even before you touch it. Almost makes it worth while to smooth out the lumps in the exhaust ports and clean everything up. But where does it end. :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/86478-rb30-twin-cam/#findComment-1567647
Share on other sites

thanks for the help guys, is it best to get the vrs gasket kit from a nissan dealer or is there somewhere that sells them a little cheaper? Also should i just use gasket glue for putting the sump back on?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/86478-rb30-twin-cam/#findComment-1568673
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sharing results from recent Liberty Walk R35 GTR, since they are still considered as somesort of a V36 Skyline. We do them turbos too. This are high flowed SS-1 models with ball bearing conversion done.  Car have managed to pull 485awkws @ 20Psi so far pushing limitations of factory built engine. The build list for R35 GTR enthusiasts as follow : HyperGear high flowed stock turbos in SS1 (G25-660 specs) Custom titanium intake pipes. Vspec performance titanium front pipes. Vspec performance 4" titanium exhaust. Upgrade fuel pumps. 1200cc injectors. Ignition coilpacks Hks intake plenum. Hks intercooler piping. Greddy intercooler. Greddy bovs. Top-secret coolant reservoir. Emtron ecu. Straight E85. Built gear box.  
    • Nah no bearings, just slip fit.  Would be a reasonably challenging but not impossible job to modify it to run bearings but I'm hoping that's not necessary as I may have well built one myself if I end up spending hours modifying it!
    • Brumbys with good shells are bloody expensive, I've looked at 2 "cheaper" cars, and walked away from both,  plus after some research spare parts are fairly sparce I'm starting to think that I missed the boat on finding a clean one that is straight (ish) and without alot rust I'm starting to think about a old Hilux as panels and other parts are much more available as they sold tens of thousands of them I use to be indecisive but now I'm not sure
    • A Brumby would probably fit a big metal toolbox in the back... this is how it begins  
    • Picked up a new OEM boot seal for the MX5 today as the old one got ripped a bit by me being a idiot by seeing if I could fit a large metal tool box in it, it didn't fit, and ripped the seal with the corner of the tool box I am still waiting on time to get the cams and new balancer installed, as well as the repairs to the boot Time will not be an issue soon though
×
×
  • Create New...