Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i know step1 cams can install without any head work, but do not know does it need to adjustable or just put in is ok??

If its a GTR you will need too (ok, well you dont need to, but its adviseable to) remove the shims from the head and measure them up for wear. Most of them will be worn and you will probably need to replace them with a new set. 24 new shims is around $240 - $250.

If its a GTR you will need too (ok, well you dont need to, but its adviseable to) remove the shims from the head and measure them up for wear. Most of them will be worn and you will probably need to replace them with a new set. 24 new shims is around $240 - $250.

Why would you need to do that? The HKS step 1 cams run a std base circle and if anything, the old cams would be a little worn, so the valve clearances will actually get smaller with the new cams.

Why would you need to do that? The HKS step 1 cams run a std base circle and if anything, the old cams would be a little worn, so the valve clearances will actually get smaller with the new cams.

In theory they should "bolt in" same as the poncams. I put a set of poncams in mine and because of shim wear, things wernt 100%.

As I said in my post, you dont -need- to but many engine builders and mechanics I have spoken to have said it is adviseable too do it.

thanks for information, can i replace hks step 1 cams  by myself??

what other things i should take care??

Make sure you don't brake them when you are instaling them , check the clearances and if not within specs you have to reset them ( very slow and expensive exersize for you ) but they should be right .

I take it you are talking about and rb 26 and you have some experience , if you dont be very careful and follow the workshop manual .

I did my cams with Tomei POncans......almost all the shims needed changing. Takes ages to do as you have to measure all the clearances, then remove the cams, measure the shims, calculate the new shim size thru simple mathmatics, get new shims and install under buckets, reinstall cams and check clearances again and hope they are all within spec. Assemble rest of engine.

Results , once the adj gears where set up, was dramatic with an extra 25rwkw and a 15% increase in midrange torque and boost arriving at 14psi at 3400rpm.....500rpm earlier! Figures off my own dyno dynamics dyno at the workshop so no creative dyno figures, I'd only be cheating myself!

Sure you don't have to redo the shims if the clearences are within spec and 'hey', we all live in a perfect world eh? :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok, can confirm.  if you use it like a normal human being in the real world, it works fine.  it only starts crossing wires if I keep using the fob over and over again in a very short period. So if I just chill the f**k out, it works 😂😂  
    • Im about to run a e30 mix of e85 and 98ron but i read that australian fuels specifically 98ron doesnt contain ethanol so on the calculator when it says pump ethanol percentage do i just put 0 or is this statement even true? And if it is true i assume i dont need to test any 98ron pumps.
    • So... the fob I had for my Skyline always had this issue where the "Unlock" button worked with no issues but the "Lock" button did nothing (and I always had to lock with the key) I thought I'd try resetting and pairing the key to the car today to see if that fixes the issue. I did the standard steps to program a key but realised my central locking was doing its own thing from time to time. 1st time: The driver-side doors would not lock or unlock when using the fob. No issues with the key. I figured it was the right time to change the battery in the fob so decided to go get one. When I went to the shop all doors locked and unlocked with the fob (while it had the old battery 🙃)   2nd time: When I locked the car, it would lock itself and immediately unlock. If I unlocked it, it would unlock and immediately lock.   3rd time:  After a bit of cursing and praying, that weird bug stopped. But then the rear passenger door started being a pain. It wouldn't really follow what the fob was asking it to do. Sometimes even using the key would not do what I wanted. So I'd lock the car with the key and all doors would lock, but the rear passenger lock didn't do anything at all. And then after a few moments, it would work again.   Is there a fuse that I should be looking at? or, is this one of those things where the door card needs to come off and some unit needs to be replaced? It just seems to happen from time to time and if I give her some space and come back later, there are no issues  🤦‍♂️ Also, should I try to program the fob again to the car just to see if that solves it?
    • One would assume a turbo is somewhere in its future down the line given they slap turbos on pretty much everything that arrives   
    • I’m guess it’ll end up with a turbo 
×
×
  • Create New...