Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So if N1 Pumps are no good in street driven cars is this because they are prone to low revs cavitation?I was under the impression that they were made especially to not cavitate???

Does anyone else know of a larger pulley to put on the stock water pump to slow it down.

If anyone knows of what to use and where to get it from can they let me know.

So if N1 Pumps are no good in street driven cars is this because they are prone to low revs cavitation?I was under the impression that they were made especially to not cavitate???

Does anyone else know of a larger pulley to put on the stock water pump to slow it down.

If anyone knows of what to use and where to get it from can they let me know.

Straight from the horse's mouth:

Maybe I am the only one who has compared them, but the spec sheet confirms it. The N1 water pump is specifically designed for continuous high rpm use, so it doesn't cavitate. This means it pumps less water around at lower rpm. So if you use your RB26 a lot (only) on the track, an N1 water pump is maybe worthwhile. But driving around the street it will be a handicap, maybe on hot days with the aircon on, in traffic. The RB30 pump is much better for this as it was designed for lower (average) rpm.

Per the post above, the RB30 pump is a better way to go, it has less blades than the standard pump but its not as bad as the N1 pump.

Plus they are super cheap to get since they are from a local engine :D

Super Cheap Auto have them $80.

All RB engines use the same pump.IE RB30 Pump bolts to any RB engine.

I just want to use a larger pulley to slow it down so it wont cavitate up around 7-8000 revs.

Super Cheap Auto have them $80.
So do Bursons. And I guess Nissan would have them (Doh!), and also Holden dealers (VL Commodore).
All RB engines use the same pump.IE RB30 Pump bolts to any RB engine.

Not quite. I had to get one for a RB25 DET, and it turned out that there is a small (6mm) bolt that is in a slightly different location (about 1cm to one side). I had to get a pump from Nissan that has a slotted hole to accommodate either bolt position.

Nope, the rb30 pump flows less than the standard pump, and the n1 pump flows less again...which is why the n1 pump may not be so great in traffic (although Ive never had trouble with the race car)

Nope, the rb30 pump flows less than the standard pump, and the n1 pump flows less again...which is why the n1 pump may not be so great in traffic (although Ive never had trouble with the race car)

So if the RB30 pump flows less then what pump is recommended?

For what its worth, I have had an N1 water pump on my R33 GTR for 2 years now and never once had an issue - The car is a daily driven streeter.

I have another brand new one ready to go on in a few weeks time when my engine is done.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...