Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

God I hate it too! It's only the drivers door, if you've noticed? I guess it's for obvious reasons, as it beeps to let you know that the keys are still in the ignition. With such a fancy hookup, I recken clipping the wire to the piezzo buzzer might be the go... now we've just gotta find the fooker!

Knowing my luck .... ill disconnect that beep .... then ill lock my keys in the car

u'd only do that how? i mean u can only lock the doors with the key, or the remote, right? ;)

OK, if anyone finds which wire it is, let me know ;)

Its good sometimes, as it tells you when your lights are on. Like if you have lights on during a tunnel and forget to turn them off..

Take off the plastic panel and put keys in ignition and open door, then find where the sound is coming from and cut the mother if u really want to. :P

Look under the dash near the fuseholder. Theres a speaker in a yellow or green (cant remember) plastic cube with a nissan logo on it the sort of looks like a Relay, and a cable going into it. Unplug the cable.

Ps don't pull out the buzzer on an R33 - it stops the windows from working!

I had my car serviced recently and they pulled out the buzzer cos it was annoying, low and behold my windows didn't work!

Plugged the buzzer back in, and all is fine!

Ps don't pull out the buzzer on an R33 - it stops the windows from working!

I had my car serviced recently and they pulled out the buzzer cos it was annoying, low and behold my windows didn't work!

Plugged the buzzer back in, and all is fine!

who you kidding they have done something wrong, i have had mine unplugged for ages now (r33 gtst) the only prob is leaving damn lights on

Ps don't pull out the buzzer on an R33 - it stops the windows from working!

I had my car serviced recently and they pulled out the buzzer cos it was annoying, low and behold my windows didn't work!

Plugged the buzzer back in, and all is fine!

They unplugged the wrong thing. In my r33 there are 2 devices under the dash, on the left hand side of the steering column. Unplugging one of them took out the beeper, but also took out the windows, etc.. The other one is just the beeper and should be able to be unplugged with no hassles. Its view is obscured by the first device, but you shouldn't have to remove any panels to get to it.

yeah ^^^^

thats right

its up under the steering wheel collumn closer to the left then the right..

i belive its right next to the flasher can.. just ope your door, locate t by sound or touch and then unplug the mofo

just dont try and remove the unit...

i sliced my hand up really good .. was pretty bad, i should have had stiches, lol coz now i have a screwed up scar lol

-Ruffels

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As an ex-skyline owner Going off how these things are now "modern classics", I would keep the twins and just "refresh" bits that are required for reliable power and have a car you can take out for a cruise whenever you get the itch As a idiot who cannot leave things alone Going deep into the "rabbit hole" is a easy thing to do, as previously mentioned, once you start it becomes a slippery slope, wirh lots of supporting mods, and possibly rebuilds, and unless you have a bottomless pit of funds, the car can spend most of its life sitting in the garage,  broken, waiting for parts, or building more funds For a classic like a R32 GTR Basically, a reliable OEM+ refresh, that isn't a broken garage queen, is alot better than a car that you build, then break, then fix, then break again And it isn't just the engine you need to worry about, these beasties are getting on in age, and all parts are getting, and have got, expensive, the days of picking up cheap replacement engines and other driveline parts are well and truly over The funds not spent on going a single with quality parts, and with all the other other bits required to make it happen, could be spent on refreshing alot of other parts A wise man once said "If you cannot afford 2 GTR's, you cannot afford 1", I also believe he said this about 20 years ago when you could pick up a clean R32 GTR up for around $20k My advice for a R32 GTR (the one and only true Godzilla in my mind) is to think holistically about the whole car, the body, the power train, the suspension, the brakes, and the driveline SAU is a wealth of knowledge with decades of Skyline experience,  from stock, to OEM+, to modified to varying degrees, to full on or weekend or dedicated racecars, as well as full on money pits that rarely leave their garage Treat the old girl nice and give her what she deserves, you are a lucky man to own such a classic car  
    • For that price you could buy the hypergear turbo (big fan as I run one) and the Haltech ECU..
    • +1 for the Elite 2500. Get some new knock sensors while you are at it (pretty cheap), look up the TAARKS Nissan knock sensor kit. You may also want to get new coils (R35gtr) while your at it (assuming your on stock ones), as they are a liability. Mine started right up and idled fine on the base map. Also go MAP over MAF, as said above, Haltech make this super simple right out the box. Another fanboy of DBW here, Outsider Garage from your neck of the woods make some nice conversion gear for the R33 (that’s where I got some of my gear from).
    • Nvm ignore this I read it wrong
×
×
  • Create New...