Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Fatz,

I will call you either on Friday or early next week next time I'm in the office. I'm certainly interested in finding out what you get for $7000.00 when it comes to complying one of these cars.

Bluke.

blukie,

I've been interested in an R34 4 door for a while now too. I've done a little reaserch on them and found that compliance is a bit less. ( according to the person I spoke to ). The below is what I recieved back from a broker after asking for a mint condition car.

"its really hard to find a 4 door gtt with any mods at all.

we can still find u a nice black gtt 4 door landed and complied for approx

$32000.but i would suggest it would be a standard car.

$32k includes compliance of $6500."

PM me if you want more details.

Hi all, I managed to go and see an R34 sedan over the weekend at Gary Bloggs. They've got 2, a Silver non-turbo and a pearl white turbo. Although the R34 is bigger than a 33 in length, the 34 has less leg room in the rear I found which is an important factor for me. I'm 6 foot and when I position the driver's seat for myself in my 33, there's about 4-5 inches of legroom behind me and I can actually fit in the back (bit squashy though). In the 34 when I adjust the driver's seat for myself, I can't even get my legs in the back. I reckon there would only be 2 inches of legroom.

Going to have a 2nd look this weekend, hopefully the lack of legroom in the 34 was just an optical illusion.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As GTS mentioned, it takes a bit of faffing, some fiddling and a little modifying.  With the strainers, you can buy different styles. Some sit flat on the pump, some angle down.  Here are some photos of mine, ignore the ugly welds lol. 
    • The smart thing is to actually locate the pump at the right point down the hanger, so that the strainer can stay sticking out at a right angle, but near the bottom. This is the perpetual hassle with retrofitting any different pump to the factory hanger. Some just go where you need it to, some need fiddling and faffing, and modifying of stuff.
    • Some updates. After a lot of praying and some inspecting of crank threads, we've found that they were both kinda munted but nothing seemed terminal. The other option was drilling and helicoiling the crank. That is obviously the last option so we decided to at least try to get a OEM GM bolt in to GM Specs. So after honing/linishing the balancer from it's .002" interference fit to a .0018" to .0015" to .0013" it eventually slotted on to the crank. ATI state the interference is nominally 0.0007-0.0009... so it's still snugger than ATI reckon and explains the issues we had to fit the thing to begin with. New GM bolt went in at 37 ft/lb then torqued 140 degrees after which was EXTREMELY   but it tightened up to 140 degrees and it was a lot of force. So all things considered, the balancer is secured to the exact specs that GM want with the OEM Stretch bolt, (that ATI say you can use..) and the balancer itself is seated and snug AF. So WOO. Engine is now back in the car with lots of swearing. Bellhousing bolts done up, driver side manifold is on, AC Compressor and hard lines are back on the car. Next step will be to connect various engine bits/wiring/intake/radiator etc. Then oil and coolant and ... test start it? And of course, looking into this issue... which actually doesn't look so bad - It looks like it can be twisted back into shape with a set of multigrips. Anyone wanna buy my bonnet? Boy it looks good over there and sunk cost sucks.
    • Also this may be a stupid question, but how would you recommend getting the strainer on a downwards angle ? as they tend to obviously clip to the bottom of the pump which usually sits level 🥴
×
×
  • Create New...