Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i was just wondering with the east bear r34 gtr look alike front bar for gt-t do you need the east bear bonnet as well for it to fit? i was told that a standard r34 gtr bonnet will line up correctly in a physical sense however the bolts and hinges wont, does anyone know of any cases where someone has fitted an east bear front bar with just a standard r34 gtr bonnet, the reason i ask is that i like the front bar but would much rather the nismo style bonnet, thanks peoples!

post-15913-1126660639.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/87693-r34-east-bear-kit/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 65
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

im guessing the east bear r34 kit would be made for the non-gtr models, so yeah, the east bear gtr bonnet should go on however i think the gtr front bumper doesn't require it as it looks asthough you can attach apiece on top of the exsisting stock bumper to cover the gap at th etop. are you going fo the whole bumper or just the gtr style lower skirt attachment?

im guessing the east bear r34 kit would be made for the non-gtr models, so yeah, the east bear gtr bonnet should go on however i think the gtr front bumper doesn't require it as it looks asthough you can attach apiece on top of the exsisting stock bumper to cover the gap at th etop.  are you going fo the whole bumper or just the gtr style lower skirt attachment?

I am going for the whole east bear bumper but dont want to use the east bear bonnet as in the pic above because i want to use a nismo gtr style replica but was told that the bolts and hinges on a non east bear bonnet wont match up to the front bar, basically trying to clarify if this is correct or not

Should be ok with a GTR bonnet.

You might need the GTR hinges and the bonnet latch as the GTR bonnet

sits higher due to the top of the front bar sitting higher.

But having said that, the East Bear front bar might not sit as high as the GTR (the top of the grill) so you might not need the hinge and latch.

The photo you've posted is actually an add on to the stock front bars.

http://www.east-bear.co.jp/aeroparts/m-piece/R34tp.html

This is a complete new front bar

http://www.east-bear.co.jp/aeroparts/m-piece/R34gts-r.html

You might be better off to get a genuine GTR front bar + the nismo bonnet you want with GTR hinges and bonnet latch.

NB: If you use the genuine GTR front bar it will extend a few mm's past the wheel arch. Not out but back, like towards the tyres if you know what I mean.

Edited by ed

powerplay's a little expensive though ($3500 and its not a genuine piece). Just Jap are selling a genuine used GTR front bumper for $995, try fitting a genuine bumper instead - alot cheaper :( . your going to need a gtr style bonnet as well, go for the carmate.com stuff as they sell carbon-fiber gtr bonnets in all the styles; they also have a gtr rear wing in carbon fiber to match the hood :unsure:

Edited by RyanN

The GTR bonnet will physically fit a GT-T however, the mounting hinges on the car do not align. I suppose you could go to the trouble to have the mounting hinges relocated if you really wanted to although I certainly wouldn't recommend it. We have tried for other customers to fit the GTR Bonnet to a GTT and it was not possible. We have used GTR front bumpers $550 and used GTR bonnets $680 in stock and yes this is a cheap option but if you fit the GTR parts what about the front guards, are you going to change them also or are these going to be adapted too?

The East Bear GTR style body kit to fit the GT-T is manufactured from plastic injection moulding (not fibreglass) and it is a genuine East Bear product. Also, for the record a customer was quoted $2,500 for the front bumper, front bumper lower lip spoiler, carbon fibre bonnet and front indicators. Personally, I don't think this is expensive for top quality products however if compared to fibreglass copies then I suppose you could say it is.

Jo Ann

Powerplay Imports

Also a few clarifications regarding East Bear Sports products.

The GTR style front bumper is designed for use with the East Bear Bonnet as the GTR style bumper bar incorporates the grille that extends to the top of the Headlights.

R34mp50.jpg

The Top Mole is designed for use with the East Bear Bonnet and a STANDARD NISSAN bumper bar. As you know the STD Nissan Bonnet has a lip on the front of it that covers the space between the top of the grille and the top of the headlights. The East Bear Sports bonnet does not have this lip and hence why the Top Mole was produced to fill in the gap.

R34nom-tp01.jpg

R34nom-top1.jpg

Tosh

We quoted $2500 for the Full Bumper Bar, Lip, Carbon Fibre Bonnet and Indicators

The lower lip for the normal Nissan bumper bar is $550 at the moment on special until the stock is sold. Normal price is $650

The lower lip for the factory aero bar is $690

And no I don't know anywhere that sells them cheaper. We are the sole distributors for East Bear products on the East Coast of Australia.

And if you think $550 is expensive, ring Nissan for a price on factory body parts.

SW20-GT, how much was the lower lip that you said someone was quoted, do you know a place that sells them cheaper?

so if you buy the top lip for standard nissan bar you need to buy the carbon bonnet as well? if so how much is the carbon bonnet and do you stcok the gts-r side skirts and/or rear bar?

Hey Tosh,

I've got the stock bar at the moment (non aero) and would like to consider the lower lip...

Can you please confirm just what this comprises of? In the photos; the lip seems to be in two bits (one bit matches the body colour; the other bit is in black). Is this correct? Or is it just the bottom black bit?

How long does your special go for @ $550 a pop?

so if you buy the top lip for standard nissan bar you need to buy the carbon bonnet as well? if so how much is the carbon bonnet and do you stcok the gts-r side skirts and/or rear bar?

the stock GT-T bumper would need the top gap filler part the i guess attaches to the stock bumper to cover the grap the GTR bonnet would create. However with that bumper you wouldn't need a GTR style bonnet since its made to fit with the stock GTT hood.

satanic, from the pics it seems as though there is a GTR style lower lip made for the non-areo stock bumper, is this the one your talking about? we need to see about trying to group buy this piece since there seems to be a few people that want it only to be turned off by the price, ouch! <_<

Edited by RyanN

Stan,

On an R34 GTR V Spec, you have a lower lip then the underbody tray (which comprises the 2nd lowest Lip). So the GTR's are 2 piece from the bumper down. East bear replicate these exact 2 lips however all in 1 piece to fit the GT-T.

East Bear just painted to top half of it and left the bottom half black.

I only have 1 left in stock, so once that goes the special is over.

We can definatley fit it for you. We can leave it black as it is now or if you want the top half painted (like in the picture), I can arrange that as well.

Cheers,

What I was referring to is the lower lip...

The photo shows a lip that is distinctively in two sections... the top half of it is painted to match the body, the bottom half has been left in black. I want to find out if what I am saying is correct or if the lip is only made up of the black bit.

A group buy to drive the price down would be AWESOME :wub:

post-19974-1126752339.jpg

See the above attachment.

I am assuming that everything under the red line is the LIP... see how there is a painted section between the RED and BLUE line? And then there is a black section under the BLUE line?

This is all one piece yeah?

$550 will get you all that correct?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When's the rear mounted turbo kit coming? Needs dose and V8 chop idle lol.
    • I was very unimpressed with how the car came up from the A pillar forward, before I hit things (twice). It all has to go. It had to go, but now it has to go... more. So we finally found the very first Shennanigans with the entirely perfectly setup engine that had no problems being pulled apart to improve on 'was perfectly fine'. Cam bearings looked a bit... stock. Which isn't entirely bad given they were stock and this is a ~20 year old engine. So new cam bearings are on the way because it's somewhat difficult to get to this stage to do it later, and it will trash the block. It was quite unusual that it wasn't done when the perfectly new-looking VCM cam was originally installed by [unknown] What IS unusual is the cam that was installed there was advanced SIX degrees. As to why there is no way to know.. however it could have been @Dose Pipe Sutututu's mate who wanted a larger cam sound but also wanted it to come on earlier to be more usable. This is my dyno sheet with the previous setup - This cam is not supposed to peak until 7000+ RPM, according to VCM. This is what lead me down the whole 'my heads/intake setup is running out of puff and can't support the cam' line of thinking to begin with. Anyway too late now - New cam is in! It could be rather funny if this smaller cam acts like a larger cam because it isn't advanced six degrees. In the spirit of everything is working amazingly - the COMP cam required no dialling in whatsoever. It was about 0.5 degrees advanced, which seems pretty bang on. Any adjustment either way would be further out. I'm told as a chain breaks in it ends up regarding back about 0.5 a degree as the chain breaks in, making it bang on. In the spirit of everything was previously working amazingly - The timing gear that was taken out turned out to be was an N-Motion double timing chain kit, with adjustable cam gear (which is how it was 6 degrees advanced) and all looks entirely perfectly new. It also had a Torrington bearing, which was one of the reasons I ended up getting the Cloyes kit which they used in the C5R 24 hour racecar - Because I couldn't confirm what was in the engine when talking to Tony Mamo. I did believe however it was a Double chain kit of some kind... but found no supporting documentation or evidence for it.
    • I recently did this to my R33 with the full set from Car Mats Direct, they can't do the vinyl anymore that's advertised on the website due to a supplier issue so I ended up with the Black Loop Pile which looks great. I went all out with rubber sound deadening sheets from Repco and also added the sound deadening foam layer option with the carpet. Makes a world of difference and got rid of all the weird smells in the 29 year old interior. It was a bit of work but I'd 100% recommend it, Car Mats Direct had awesome customer service and quick postage. Replaced my seats with some sporty ones from Autotechnia while I was at it, feels like a new car.
    • Got the motor out and torn down. I'll be dropping off the block Monday. Luckily the scoring on Cyl6 is much less pronounced then the pictures made it out to seem. It can barely be felt. If you pass your finger over it 10x you'll barely notice it. Hopefully by some chance it will only require a honing. I'm not in the mood to buy one size larger pistons or another block. Oddly enough my 6th cylinder with the scoring has extremely clean intake valves compared to my other 5 cylinders. I'm worried the scoring was caused by too much fuel or Water/Methanol washing the cylinder. I'll review some old logs to confirm.  This was also the first time I pull an engine with the transmission still attached. It went much better then expected. I was worried my CD009 wouldn't make it easy due to its sheer size but it was much easier this way. 
×
×
  • Create New...