Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Wiring is easy in a S2 skyline due to the built in ignightor.....

But location of the coil packs will be more interesting as i have that much crap under the bonnet....

I dont want to run huge leads either due to vd (voltage drop) but yeah i have ordered the parts and will try....

Well its a different kettle of fish as you have ignightor pack at the rear of your tappet cover.... But still easily do able.... You just need coils to suit.... On the down side the non-ignightor coils are more dollars....

Ill let you know how i go

  • 4 weeks later...

I read the whole website... Looks like a great money spinner for him as he has a number of project cars.... Good on him..... However its not an upgrade is just a replacement alternative....

Also the coil packs he uses need an ignightor so wont souit S2 skyline with out extras....

So not suitable for me personally....

Good luck with the remote set up Col.

Personally, I am throwing mine in the bin and getting some splitfires.

Mine is on an RB20 so seperate ignitors but its been nothing but grief all the same. The coils used were three doubles I beleive are standard fitment on the VN holden with some Bosch ignitors.

No word of a lie it has failed on me minimum 8 times and the car is sitting in the garage now with yet another melted coil pack. First two times I thought it was the tuner but it has been looked at by other mechanics , auto elecs ( rewired twice) and reps for Autronic and it just keeps on melting. Also spoke to somebody in NSW with identical engine and setup who had the identical problem and also threw it away.

At the end of the day it might still be a problem that nobody has picked up on or it might just be the coil packs themselves are hopeless but I just have had enough.

I honestly hope you can get yours to run without hiccup and if I can share any advice it would be to be wary of mounting position in relation to heat. Also dont get the whiz bang leads first up, get cheap ones that are longer than you need and use zip ties to mount the coils as you will find you will probably move them around.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
×
×
  • Create New...