Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ah theyre always good fun

GTR owners bitching about GTRs :)

Kind of reminds me a bit of the fast fours forums. Just kiddin guys !!!!

Damn, after tonight i can say 1.3 bar really hurts your chest :P

hey mate, so how much did u turn the ratio up to get a steady 1.3bar?

also last night the boost was most definetly turned UP not down, it must have been for some other reason (like wrxhoons car) that it was not running full boost... :P

  • Replies 288
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hey mate, so how much did u turn the ratio up to get a steady 1.3bar?

also last night the boost was most definetly turned UP not down, it must have been for some other reason (like wrxhoons car) that it was not running  full boost... :D

Hey mate,

George was right about my gain being WAY too high.

I think my gain at the moment is about 15 or so. I played around with the ratio, while i had the gain set to 0 to determine the maximum boost it would hit. Once i got about 1.28-1.29 bar i stopped and then set the gain to about 15. It overboosts to about 1.32-1.33 bar, and settles on about 1.29-1.3 bar as intended :P

I think i will be at the drags again next week. Feels a LOT quicker. I was probably running no more than 1.2 bar that night, even on the quickest run ! But we will see :P

Mmmmmmmmmmmm drags :)

Hey mate,

George was right about my gain being WAY too high.

I think my gain at the moment is about 15 or so. I played around with the ratio, while i had the gain set to 0 to determine the maximum boost it would hit. Once i got about 1.28-1.29 bar i stopped and then set the gain to about 15. It overboosts to about 1.32-1.33 bar, and settles on about 1.29-1.3 bar as intended :)

I think i will be at the drags again next week. Feels a LOT quicker. I was probably running no more than 1.2 bar that night, even on the quickest run ! But we will see :)

Mmmmmmmmmmmm drags :)

awesome, at least u got it sorted quickly!

do yourself a favour & buy a decent boost controller so that u can monitor your boost levels in every gear - this is the most important insurance for your powerplant

this reminds me of the days i had my vl turbo/exa turbo/datsun 1600...back then i would run a mechanical boost gauge with a bleed valve located under the dash - NUTS :)

Good question

I'm not actually sure anymore

Gut feeling says anywhere between 4600 and 4800

Reaches actuator pressure at around 4200 - 4400 i'd say

Will double check on saturday when i take it out on the freeway

well in that case u have the best controller on the market - dual solenoid is very stable

Marko

i have a dsbc spec R

While the recall button is cool, it only shows peak boost

yep! the club "spec R" is growing I am sure..... if only they could make the settings a little more user friendly!

marko and tommy when do you make 1 BAR? rpm?

I get 1 BAR at 2900rpm

I have a feeling both of you will make 1 BAR at similar RPM while the GTRS make more top end....

MUCH more top end... I smell 430kw marko :cheers:

Good question

I'm not actually sure anymore

Gut feeling says anywhere between 4600 and 4800

Reaches actuator pressure at around 4200 - 4400 i'd say

Will double check on saturday when i take it out on the freeway

WilliamsF1: considering this post, i'd assume actuator pressure is about 0.9-1bar? So sounds like tommy may be making 1Bar around 4,000rpm, not 3,000 like you?

What differnce does a 'built' engine make? forged pistons, upgraded oil pump and all that, thats more for saftey... I think most of the performance mods tommy and williamsf1 are on par, cams, turbos, inj etc... just different choices.

I doubt kebab makes 24 psi at 3k :D and I also doubt he makes 1 BAR at 3k .... he hasn't got cam yet (or should I say again )

but yes you are correct in the fact that DART built both of our engines, as is Marko as is Blitz... :)

but I would add that having a "built" motor does fark all for making more power in this case (setup I have) it just lets you sleep better at night knowing it was put together with some lovin'.....

Marko will make a shed load more power than all of us, but we are talking top end now, and that is a different game :P

TommyK will you give it a power run somewhere shortly for all of us to see? and did you notice much of a fix with the better boost control?

I'm guessing you ended up getting the Jim Berry clutch too? like???

Ben - power run is something i need to think about. I think im at the point where i dont want to spend any more money on this damn thing. But maybe i will be convinced to get a power run done at DART ? how much will they charge for a power run?

Boost controller only seems to fix spooling past 1 bar.

I ended up going for a different clutch. A nice little 9 puk ceramic that feels like stock, from UAS. Holds all the power i throw at it, and the girlfriend has no troubles driving it.

Tested mine to produce 0.5-0.6 bar ~ 7-9 psi @ 3300-3500 rpm in 3rd gear tonight. Not game to try 4th by any chance. not during double demerits! :P

Errrrr TommyK you own a GTR right ;) hmmmm = wife & 3 kids, or thats what my bank account shows I am supporting!

(and no I am in no way, shape, or form married with any rug rats!)

A power run at DART? I'm sure Jim would be more than willing to help you out there :P he is a top guy, and there are more than a few here to vouch for the work of the shop, all I say is drop in and say hi, all the guys are very clued up, and will be willing to have a chat :D

( 19 Belmore rd punchbowl )

the good thing about the dynolog is the acurate torque figure, and that is what really makes a fast car, not a nancy boy KW number :):)

.5 BAR at 3300? hmmm that does seem very low?

I know you have the SBC spec R, so how about setting the alarm on it to 1 BAR and then eyes on the road and the tacho gas it till it rings.... then you will be able to check your 1 BAR a little easier, and safer!!!

I wonder what PNBLGHT gets?

:P Heh, yeh tell me about it. GTR = way too much money. Yesterday i was at justjap trying to decide whether i should spend the $90 on a catch can, and i just couldnt bring myself to do it. Dont wanna spend anymore. My poor girlfriend gets nothing ;)

I will try and pop down to DART one day when i have time. Ben @ bel mentioned he would be happy to pop down and tune the car on the dyno for me :)

Ben - I'm pretty convinced i will not get spoolup any quicker. if you check out petes dyno graph (pnblight) you will notice that the turbos seem very laggy also

check his dyno graph out - makes very little power under 4k

4923scan00011.jpg

I think these turbos are probably a bit mismatched. He has the cam gears etc. But bear in mind, these turbos are probably a fair bit bigger than the hks ss turbos. Places like GCG quote these turbos to be 350hp ? Because garrett still hasnt released any compressor or turbine maps, we still cant tell where the turbos are most efficient :D

Actually - just adding to that - GT2860R - 707160 - 7 is a lot smaller than the GT2860R - 707160 - 5 model. But they are both rated at 320hp. That cant be right. The - 7 is comparable in spec to the hks gt-ss and the -5 is comparable to the 2530. I think there is no point in comparing your SS's to my 'similar to 2530 spec' garrett turbos. Mine should make more power than yours seeing as they are bigger :)

Knowing what is the fastest possible boost build for the engine/turbo combination is very important. Otherwise I can't tell if the boost controller is doing its job properly ie, isn't leaking boost to the wastegate actuator before the target boost is reached.

What I do is a quick power run on the dyno with the vacuum hoses to the wastegate actuators removed. I limit the rpm climb so that the boost doesn't get too far past my target level. The logged boost curve is then the target for tuning the boost controller. It doesn't mattter what brand or style of boost controller, the fastest boost build possible is one achieved without any wategate opening.

If I am doing it without the dyno, I use a video camera pointed at the gauges. It's the poor man's data logger, just play it back in slow motion. The Datalogit works great as well, if you have one.

:D cheers :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can you log IAT? Whilst WTA coolers have their place, doing any sort of sustained run is not one of them There are fixes that slow down the heat soak, like ice boxes, which don't last that long, and interchillers, which are fairly expensive, up grades to the WTA cooling radiator, which may require a bigger pump, and upgrades to the reservoir size,  and upgrades to the cooling fans, but, it all still heat soaks, and takes ages to come down in hot weather  For a turbo, that isn't locked into WTA like my PD blower is, can you not possibly swap to a nice air to air intercooler????, it would be better for sustained runs then, and have alot less things that could go wrong in my opinion 
    • So, the other thing I've sorted is a baseline dyno run up at Unigroup's new location. The auto trans was a little unco-operative by both shifting down when the throttle was floored on the dyno (so Mark had to ramp it up more slowly than in a manual) and also by shifting up at 6,000 even in sports mode instead of the indicated redline of 7,000 Still, on a hot day it made 240rwkw at 16psi which seems about right for 300kw (400hp) through an auto at the wheels.  The shape of the curve is not quite right because it was not full throttle to about 4,500 to stop it kicking down, but until I can get a tune on the auto trans control this was the best we could do.....full boost will be well below 5,000 once that is sorted, I'll get some data logs when I can to confirm For comparison, the R32 made 255 at 12psi (at 4,500) on the same dyno with tune, n1 turbos, cam gears, big exhaust but otherwise all standard so the v37 is likely a little better out of the box. One thing that is very clear is that the standard water to air intercoolers are not up to sustained use at full throttle in warm ambient temps. After about 5 runs (so only a few minutes full throttle), it was pulling boost and timing and dropping 10-15% power. Unfortunately I didn't get that printout and the Unigroup guys are away at the moment, will try and get hold of it on their return. So, looks like a healthy engine to start modifying and the only real area of concern is the w2a heat exchangers which the aftermarket has plenty of solutions for    
    • I maintain it actually looked really nice in person. So much so that I thought "No, this is illegal" but there it was, clear as day. I think we can easily call the wing and wheels/height to be transformative. Not saying it's better than the GR Whatever, or the 86, or the WRX STI or anything of that sort (the internet says it all bolts up so you can buy best of all worlds?) but it's still at least a thing and not nearly AS bad as people say.
    • That's less offensive than the previous gen.....except for all that ugly black tupperware around the edges. Blerck!
    • I leant out the window recently and took a picture of this new WRX. It looked real damn fine in person. It's faster around a track (stock) than a (stock) GR Yaris. It's much more practical despite being heavier. It's significantly cheaper. This gen tunes really well, much better than others. .... I think they're probably a lot better than people expect.
×
×
  • Create New...