Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well as ur turbo is made up of different materials, its good to let it cool with a turbo timer, to keep oil / water flowing thru, since even under actual boost your turbo still spins at quite a few thousand rpm, tho nothing compared to the 40,000 plus rpm of boost..

Turbo's tend to not start making boost until they are spinning at 20,000rpms..

main use for the turbo timer is if you've been driving on boost for a long duration of time, the heat generated by the turbo is huge..

if you than pull up.. stop the car.. turn it off and walk away it has to disipate the heat somehow.. it's meant to stop the oil from sitting in the turbo and causing some side effects, not exactly sure what they are but when your driving you constantly have a cool air flow going past the turbo.. Think it's heat soak in the oil - can have bad sideeffects..

As for legalities - they are not legal in N.S.W. - main reason for this is a) it's illegal to leave a car running while you are not within the vehicle and B) in the case of an accident, if you have a turbo timer when the car crashes the engine/power will not shut off straight away which could either keep the engine running or the power which could cause further injury.

Before you complain - I have a turbo timer in my car which doubles as a boost gauge.. quite useful..

also - to answer your question - most turbo timers that automatically pick a duration to stay on go on how long you've been on boost for.. if it's >0 vacuum it will start adding time to the count.. mine frequently gets up to 20+secs which really would only matter if I turned off the car then and there..

  • 3 weeks later...

I went tru pit twice with HKS BOV and Turbo time...and passed...of course I disconnect the BOV so when the pit guys drive does muted sound...I think Turbo timers are Legal in W.A. ....the pit guys did not give any comment on it...

...that would be because race tracks are private property and you dont have to obey the same rules that you do on the road.... otherwise there would be a policeman up the end of each straight with a hair dryer :D

Unless you're planning on doing trackwork, timers are mostly used for wank factor.

I mean, think about it, if there was a real need for one, manufacturers would have taken that into consideration.

The temperatures achieved with normal or even "spirited" street driving aren't dangerous enough to cause any damage to the turbo. (Unless you have cooling issues)

....but this isn't the case here, so back on topic  :D

There is a thread covering this topic in NA performance which can be found here

Also be made aware that turbo timers are not legal in all states.  B)

That's not always the case.....

Manufacturers don't include turbo timers in the cars to save costs. Anyone that's owned a WRX would know this.... Manufacturers always put a warning in inside the cabin to say that if the car has been driven hard or done alot of freeway driving, to let it idle for 30 sec ~ 2 mins to let the car cool down before shutting it off. WRX's have them as a sticker near the drivers door latch. My MR2 had it written on the underside of the sun visor along with other warnings.

The temperatures achieved with normal or even "spirited" street driving aren't dangerous enough to cause any damage to the turbo. (Unless you have cooling issues)

Therefore this statement isnt necessarily correct. The temperatures achieved ARE dangerous enough to cause damage to the turbo and hence why there is a warning inside the car to tell you to cool it down.

Turbo Timers are essentially a little convenience IMHO. It lets the car cool down while you can lock it and go on about your business, negating the need for you to sit in the car while it idles for a couple of minutes (which can seem like an eternity when you're in a hurry).

Having said that, Subaru in particular (and I'm sure other manufacturers) have developed a system to cool the turbo down properly when the car is shut off. It keeps pumping water and oil through the turbo to sufficiently cool it down before completely shutting off. This was first introduced on the Liberty B4 and allows you to shut the car off immediately without fear of damaging your turbo and without the need to install a turbo timer in the vehicle.

Hope this has helped :O

Having said that, Subaru in particular (and I'm sure other manufacturers) have developed a system to cool the turbo down properly when the car is shut off. It keeps pumping water and oil through the turbo to sufficiently cool it down before completely shutting off. This was first introduced on the Liberty B4 and allows you to shut the car off immediately without fear of damaging your turbo and without the need to install a turbo timer in the vehicle.

Hope this has helped :D

You would think that other car companies would or should be using technology similar to this. Sounds like the perfect invention to look after your turbo and also keep the car legal.

If Subaru put this in the B4 then why didn't they put it in the WRX? Is it in the STi?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Given by the sheer number of questions about offset, absolutely not. If you had the information formatted this way: Space from R34 GTT hub to outer arch = 100mm Space from R34 GTT inner hub to nearest suspension arm = 90mm. (making this up) Buying a wheel that was advertised as Enkei RPZ5 Diameter 18in Width 9 Distance to arch = 84mm Distance to suspension arm = 76mm 100% of people would know instantly if it fits. They would absolutely also know instantly how close it fits too, and no questions would need to be asked. You would know you would have 16mm from the guard and 14mm from the suspension arm.
    • Ah ok, for example for the apexi ecu I heard that it's pretty limited with the information it can give you. Also not sure why Nissan used the consult port over the obd2, what the idea there was.
    • Diagnosing with and without is mostly the same. You need to know, as Duncan asked, and what conditions. Car hot, cold, idling, driving, if while driving what rpms, is when you're varying, or is it when held constant.   From there it's understanding what can be causing it. Starting with pretending all of the sensors are correct. Which means if it's going rich, why would it be thinking more air is going in than it is, and under what conditions. So things like if only when under boost, it could be be a loose intake piping joint. It's just understanding the system, and understanding when/how the problem occurs, and then if it's only occuring in specific scenarios, what can be causing it.   ECU specifically, if it's aftermarket, it'll have software you can use, for the Skylines on factory ECU, there is Nissan Consult you can use. Most ECUs have a way to get data from them.
    • How do you go about diagnosing ecu's that don't have data logging, is it more experience at that point and just trying out things that you think will fix the issue?
    • Stock O2 are basically useless beyond anything at stoich. Any misfire will also be seen as lean. The stock O2 also read a collective exhaust gas volume, not each cylinder. Sputtering and missing means not each cycle is firing, and some are. Which means even if rich, as shit, on cylinders as they miss, they'll read lean, but the cylinders that did fire will read rich, and combined, well, they can read anything from rich to lean.   Start with the basics before even going looking at sensor values.   Edit: I say the above, and that's coming from the guy with a few thousand dollars worth of scan tools sitting right beside me right now that I use frequently for my job.
×
×
  • Create New...