Just Bought An Auto R33 Gts-t - Heaps Of Questions

[benro2]

Hi guys,

I've been reading these forums for a long time, before I bought my Skyline, and was waiting and waiting for the day to come when I finally owned one. Well, a couple of weeks ago I finally got an R33 GTS-T auto, '96 Series II. Totally stock, (supposedly) genuine ~50,000 km's (according to the mechanic who checked it out). Just got a few questions in a lot of different areas - thanks in advance for your help! Oh yeah, and apologies for the really long post...

1. After reading a lot of threads on the auto boxes, some people think they shift slowly. I'm wondering if mine is still stock, as my changes are quite fast (as fast as a quick manual change), and are really smooth, and this is in Normal mode. I was actually quite surprised when I test drove the car. No rough changes from 1st to 2nd. Always seems to shift @ 6,500 rpm whether in Normal or Sport modes. Does this sound like a stocker? Is there any way to get it to change @ 7,000 rpm or higher?

2. I got a RhinoCo 3-point immobiliser/alarm installed about a week after purchasing the car, and up until that time I had never seen the HICAS light come on at any speed. However, after the installation, the light seems to come on after I've been driving the car for a few mins and only above 100-110 km/h. I don't have an aftermarket steering wheel and the steering weighting stays the same at speed and while parking. No weird movements from the back while driving either. So what does this mean? Is the HICAS system still working and is it likely that the guy who installed the alarm caused the problem?

3. What are the proper tyre sizes for the rears? The rear tyres only had about 15-20% tread left on them when I bought the car so I'll be going for some new ones very soon. There is a tyre placard that appears to be stuck on by the dealer in the RH door and it says that the fronts are 205/55R16 and the rears are 225/50R16. I've seen people here saying that the rears are just 205's. Can (and should) I fit 225's to the rears, and for that matter, the fronts as well, on the stock wheels? What's the best width combo front/rear? 205/205, 205/225 or 225/225?

4. There is a really annoying rattle that seems to be coming from the glovebox/LHS dash/LH driver's door - can't really tell where. Has anyone else experienced this? Any ideas on what it is and how to fix it?

5. What's a good idea of the stock rwkW for an auto? Also, 0-100 km/h times and quarter miles? I've seen people get straight 15's on here with a stock auto, but I believe Nissan officially quotes 15.5. What's the deal here? Another thing I've been wondering about, the official power figures for the manual are something like 186kW and 286Nm, but the auto's are 180kW and 276Nm. What's the reason for this difference? Is it simply less boost? I assume everything like the turbo / intercooler are all the same?

6. I want to try and get a few more kW's on the cheap (for now) Like, $200-$300 for the time being. I found a post for that 5 min boost cut mod - the one that gives you 8psi around the rev range rather than just over 4,000rpm. I told the dealer about this and he reckons there is no solenoid that limits boost under 4,000rpm. Are the autos and different to the manuals here? I saw a post about a Turbotec (?) boost controller for something like $40. If I get one of these, can I just wind on a couple more psi and expect more power or do I need an aftermarket air filter, etc. as well? I don't have an aftermarket boost gauge though. Should I go to a tuner and get them to install the boost controller? Will they be able to put the car on the dyno and see the highest level of boost I can run with maybe an aftermarket air filter? Also, will I get more low rpm boost if I just buy the boost controller, install it myself, but leave the boost as stock?

7. It seems that one of the best mods for power is an aftermarket exhaust. However, one big problem I have with this is that I just don't like the sound of an auto with a loud exhaust. Maybe it's just me (is it?), but I much prefer a manual with a loud exhaust to an auto. It just doesn't sound "right" with an auto Anyway, is it possible to get, say, a 3" full exhaust that is (almost) as quiet as the stock one, but still as free-flowing as a loud one? I actually really like the sound of the stock exhaust, but I want the flow properties of a free-flowing 3". Am I expecting the impossible?

I've actually got heaps more questions but I'm sensing that half of you have already fallen asleep reading this ridculously long post Oh well, I'll save them for another time...

Thanks again for all your help,

Ben

Edit: this is the actual car that I bought (for $19k):

http://japlinkmotors.com.au/?i=c&n=233

Edited September 15, 2005 by benro2

[Sumo]

Well most of these topics have been done to death but I would not

Increase boost and leave the stock exhaust there, your only putting pressure on other components with no real gains. A 3 inch turbo back exhaust will give you a great boost in power, it will free the engine up so to speak. As the old saying goes you cant put more in then comes out.

Cheers

Sumo

[FLRTY2]

Hey mate, as sumo said already dont go increasing boost just yet. If you have to leave it stock for a few more weeks til you can afford a decent 3 inch exhaust and filter then so be it. Id say the auto is just shifting at 6,500 because the ecu is determining this to be the most appropriate engine speed to shift and remain in the power curve. My auto is stock and will shift at 7,200- 7,300 if the gas is held open but the shifts are noticeably smoother at about 6,500 6,700 so I wouldnt be worrying about that too much. As far as the tyres are concerned mine is wearing 225's on the front and 235's on the rear, I dont think you'll be getting too much traction with 205's on the rear even with the car in stock condition. Hope this helps and hope you enjoy the new ride.

Take it easy,

Ryan

[BL01]

For Question 4, the rattling noise could be from the window. You might want to check that out. If it comes on only on highspeeds then i'm right.

Summer's coming, save up and get yourself a FMIC then you can up boost.

[benro2]

For Question 4, the rattling noise could be from the window. You might want to check that out. If it comes on only on highspeeds then i'm right.

Summer's coming, save up and get yourself a FMIC then you can up boost.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Hmmm...it could be the window, but it only appears to rattle when I go over bumps (say, 60km/h) and sometimes at certain idle rpm (for example, like when the A/C comes on and idle revs drop).

Just out of interest, has anyone tried a water-air IC? I was wondering if it was possible to convert the standard IC to water and then get a reasonably sized oil cooler for the charge air? This would shorten the charge air length (should reduce lag) and would possibly give better cooling performance because it's using water and at low speeds, the cooler water should be better than the small amounts of air that will find their way to the standard air cooler. Will this work, or is it a waste of time and/or money? Just an idea...

Oh yeah, does putting a huge FMIC decrease A/C performance? I know, I know, it's a "granny" type of question, but I've always wondered about that. What about engine coolant temps? Are they affected also?

[foznice]

for the hicas... check your powersteering fluid, and all the power steering lines to see if they are leeking.. it's a common occurance on r32's anyway, so it *might* be the same for r33's.. congrats on the purchase.

[skylinecouple]

Hey Ben,

Welcome to pleasure and pain of skyline ownership.I currently own a R33GTST.Being a little older than most I know there is only one way to do it.......Do it right the first time.An intercooler is the first thing you need as every mod you do after that will be maximized by this one change.There are plenty of good ones out there right now for around $6oo.You will be amazed at the extra torque and general crisp feel to the car.Got some good news for you,it is possible to have a quiet exhaust and have a 3" system.No secret, simply pop down to parts importer and get a cat back exhaust with the biggest mufler and resonator.Second hand about $6oo.Then go to mufler shop and add a hotdog and hey presto! Super quiet.The rattle? Put someone in the passenger seat. If rattle stops, you have the dredded skyline rattling seat.If so, then keep an inflatable babe in the glovebox and use her when needed.Could also be the plastic trim covering the seatbelt.Sometimes not replaced properly when complyancing.Be careful about going to big with tyres as steering will feel vague on direction changes.Also back end will float around a little.Suggest 205 front and 215 rear.Oh and by the way, boost will increase with new zorst and cooler.

[benro2]

for the hicas... check your powersteering fluid, and all the power steering lines to see if they are leeking.. it's a common occurance on r32's anyway, so it *might* be the same for r33's.. congrats on the purchase.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Thanks for the info foznice, will check that when I get the chance.

Also skylinecouple, nice post! I will definitely be looking into that 3" cat-back with hotdog and FMIC ASAP. Only problem is, I need new tyres, possibly need the brake discs done, need the front windows tinted, among other small things. So that's really gonna set me flat broke The car is under 3 months' warranty as well, so I'm not supposed to do any mods during that time. Kinda good though, as it gives me a chance to save up for the FMIC and exhaust...

So, after I've added the FMIC and exhaust, I recall some posts about people saying the stock ECU will be limiting power because it's running rich. In the manuals, you can get a PowerFC(?) but it appears that with the autos it's not that easy, as they stuff up the shift quality. Is it possible to just get a piggyback computer or just tune the existing one? I assume this would have (almost) the same benefits of a full replacement ECU but retain shift quality (and maybe be cheaper)? But is it really necessary, or worth the extra cash, to get an ECU retune? I don't really want to spend *too* much money on this car, as I really want a GTR So ATM I'm leaning towards some decent, relatively inexpensive mods, but who knows...I bet I'll end up spending thousands on mods in the end...

Oh yeah, with the rattle, I'm quite certain that it's not the seat or the seatbelt. I'm pretty sure it was rattling with someone in the seat, and it seems to be coming from the front LHS of the car, like within the glovebox or in the LHS door or something. I've tried hitting various panels but it doesn't make a difference

[skylinecouple]

HI Ben,

You might want to get those tyres first thats for sure.Do not do disks without pads to.Try bendix advance for every day driving or ultimates for track days.Beware, ultimates wear quickly but stop you every time and they are cheap.Window tinting will be ok under warranty.For the moment I doubt you will need a piggy back as you have yet to explore electronic boost control.12lb of boost will give you a woody, trust me.Contact gR33dy when your ready, he may be able to help.

I`m confused,you want a GTR but you buy an auto,hmmm......

Honestly,two of everything will cost you dearly.Have you ever changed a GTR gear box?Exxxxxxxpensive.They are great cars,don`t get me wrong,but for the every day street driver you should appreciate what you have.Be honest,after you spend 30-40 thou` on your GTR will you really use it the way it is meant to be used?Personally I would rather have a nicely modded GTST and not cry like a baby when I blow it up.(if).99% of the time you will be in the traffic with a nice fast comfortable car laughing at guys like me in stiffly suspended heavy clutched manuals.

[benro2]

I`m confused,you want a GTR but you buy an auto,hmmm......

Hehe, there are two very good reasons for this:

1. My granny and mum will have to drive my car (against my wishes ) occasionally, and they can't drive manuals, and have no hope of learning either...

2. Of all the many ads that I looked at, the autos were all a few thousand cheaper than the manuals, and I just couldn't afford that extra amount. There were a few other financial things as well, but basically, it just wasn't feasible to get a manual.

Trust me, I would have *definitely* gotten the manual if I could have, but it just wasn't possible. I also live in an area where traffic's mostly not too bad, so a manual would have been OK as well. Dammit!

What I'm *hoping* to do is to keep this car *and* get the GTR later on. I'm talking a long while off though Hopefully I will be able to sell it to my parents or something so I don't have to see it go (I'm pretty sure my dad likes my car ). But yeah, I'd say I will definitely use the GTR for what it's made for. I'd really like to get into some track days and I don't really think an auto is suitable for that. It might be OK, but it's just not the same as a manual, you know? I have heard that guys who own both GTS-T's and GTR's prefer the GTS-T's for everyday driving, but I guess that's just something I'm gonna have to put up with...

Edit: thanks for the tips. The dealer already changed the brake pads for me but didn't do the discs, so I may need new pads again when I get the discs done. I think I'll just go for the Advances

Edited September 18, 2005 by benro2

[CNR33]

*Pictures a granny fanging around in a turbo r33 with a massive FMIC*

That's awesome!!! haha B)

Well done mate, enjoy the car, i'll agree with the others, but i think tyres would be a good first *mod*

Enjoy!