Jump to content
SAU Community

What Skyline For $20,000?


alphabeatsco
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

well for 20k,, there's heaps of r33 series 2 out there.

but wats da main things to look for? just briefly...

this is my first turbo car, and im kindda newbie to turbos.

i've heard turbos can have many many problems

so im worried that if i buy it, i'll need to spend thousands on top of it.

cos i've got no more to spend.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

well for 20k,, there's heaps of r33 series 2 out there.

but wats da main things to look for? just briefly...

this is my first turbo car, and im kindda newbie to turbos.

i've heard turbos can have many many problems

so im worried that if i buy it, i'll need to spend thousands on top of it.

cos i've got no more to spend.

if all u have is $20k, do not buy a $20k car

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have an R34 GTX 4Door Non Turbo, NEO6 Version for sale. Full features - Factory TV/NAV/Keyless Entry/Engine Start/Triptonic/Xenon Headlights plus more. No damage history at all.

Link can be found here: http://www.allblitz.com.au/cars/japcars/98gtx.html

Can do a good price for you - including registration, with some money left over to fill up petrol for the next month or 2 :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you buy an R32 GT-R you have no clue about the state of the engine and the probability is high that it was trashed in japan. Not to mention its way too old now lol

If you have no clue on the condition of an r32 gtr engine why would you know anything about the condition of an r33 gtst donk?

IMHO if you're after looks then its simply personal taste. If performance is your ticket then a gtr for the same $ may be older but there is no comparison between the vehicles. An r32 gtr is the real deal, a gtst is simply the shopping trolley version sharing very little mechanically. Look at the price of these cars when new and its quite clear where the value now lies.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Dude, it's pretty simple go skyline r33 series2. Newer. more features, new turbo , good power and yes with a few modes it goes pretty hard. Yes you can not put it next to gtr but by the time you get an r32 running %100 you could have built a gun of an r33. Dont be bothered with the fact that there are many r33 around. That's simply coz they are popular, good quality and pocket rockets plus all the extra space and luxury R32 is lacking. I am really unbias and have had almost every import such as: 300zx tt, r33 series 1, 180sx. Now i got r33 series 2 that cost me about 25gs, have done all the basics such as:suspension, wheels, exaust,body kit filter, cooler, boost Apexi Fc and car is going like a thunder. Have given a few good goes to r32 gtrs belive it or not. Hop-e this helps, anyway this is my 2 cent

Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

my vote would be to go for a s2 r33.

spend up to 18k on a decent mainly unmodded car, and remember you will need to budget for insurance/change in ownership etc.

if this is your first turbo car don't jump in the deep end and get a 32 gtr, possibly the worst thing you could do. even if the gtr is in top nick it will still require a great deal of maintenance to keep it that way.

having said that, any jap import you buy will not just be a get in, drive and forget about proposition. if you want that buy a new corolla :D

get the gtst, read a lot on here, and you will be happy with the decision.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Building a car for drift, on a budget... you'll probably be wanting the R32 GTS-t then, and for a touch of spice, you could try a 4-door, cefiro or laurel. If you are drifting it you will want to be spending a lot of time and money looking after your car because you will be treating you car a lot harsher than the average user, i'm not sure you are fully aware of just how much drifting actually costs, and that's before your first stack :D.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for the reply, So i've continued playing around, and fitted the injector adaptors onto the injector, the fuel rail is not able to be mounted now as the injectors sit a bit further out. I suppose the point of the adaptors is so that the injector nozzle isn't so deep into the intake? I suppose 1mm extra on the o-ring would do it but still can't mount the rail onto the intake haha. Waiting on a reply from Aeroflow I'm sure there's something stupid that I'm missing...
    • I have a radium fuel rail on my Greddy manifold and used the supplied radium fuel injector to manifold adapters (The round green things pictured). I did always wonder if you could just go ahead and use the second lower hole like you're doing... Wouldn't thicker o-rings solve your issue?    
    • From what I've seen and experienced first hand with those powder extinguishers, they're good to use to break a window and escape the car, and half the time then do f**k all to stop a fire. You just need much more than 1KG worth of powder. Not to mention, half the time it's an engine bay fire, and you can't easily, and do not want to completely open the bonnet, so you're left pretending to be an American Infantry... Spray and Pray baby!   And then 100% that shit is really destructive afterwards!   Realistically, those little ones at a race track might help you keep the fire from growing and give the fire marshal / truck a chance to actually get to you with their multiple large bottles.   For a road car, these days, prepare to deboard as quickly as humanly possible, and move to safety. Allow insurance to fix replace it (unless it's like a rare classic etc, then do nearly everything possible to save it!) Keep the little extinguisher with you to help protect other things around you from burning while you stand there singing "How can we sleep while our beds are burning?"   Secondly, powder extinguishers I freaking hate for indoor use, (this isn't really relevant to a car) as you will get a powder fog around you, and it can be disorientating.   When I did fire training when at BlueScope Steel, they have (had?) their own fire brigade on site. We did all the training, and at the end we were told, "If it's an indoor fire, and you need to use a powder extinguisher, we as the fire brigade would rather you just exit the building, you're more likely to get lost in the smoke and powder fog than do much help, so just GTFO" And pretty much that was what they said for most other fires too, grab extinguisher, if it's much more than paper in a bin fire, use extinguisher to get you and others out of the building to safety...   Part of me wishes when my Skyline caught alight many moons ago, I let insurance sort it out, instead of putting the fire out... part of me now says "But I've saved a classic before it was a classic!"
    • Hi all,  I have a older model of the Greddy Front facing intake on an RB25DET NEO Head. I've bought aeroflows fuel rail and injector kit (1000cc Bosche injectors) and I'm unsure if the fitment is correct. The injector o-rings fit in the intake hole but it's not snug. I can very easily rotate the injectors even when the fuel rail is mounted. The kit also came with multiple adaptors, they dont make it any more snug and using them raises the injectors up and i cant mount the fuel rail. I hope this makes sense I've asses a few photos.    Thanks so much guys. 
×
×
  • Create New...