Jump to content
SAU Community

who here as taken there boost restrictor out of the GTR?  

29 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

Umm, fragile 12-15years old ceramic wheeled turbos a good enough reason? ;)

yeah, i did...then i spent a few grand on a new set of turbos... :(

restrictor is good i thought coz it allows to run .7bar as a minimum instead of .9-1bar minimum...

post-12416-1127011475.jpg

Edited by oRiCLe
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88092-boost-restrictor/#findComment-1591013
Share on other sites

The problem is, its impossible to say (with any accuracy) if the ceramic wheels will definately let go or definately be fine once the boost restrictor is removed.

My 0.02c is don't remove it unless you are happy to run the risk of blowing one or both of your turbos. If they blow, your looking at about 2000-3000 in parts (for new items) plus installation. Of course if they blow and take out your engine, your up for double that.

That's a rather expensive risk to take in my books.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88092-boost-restrictor/#findComment-1592773
Share on other sites

when you say it like that its probably not worth it hey

i was thinking is it woth the effort of taking out the restrictor as to how much more power you will get lol.

1st gtr i took it out.. and it went fine and still gets around fine these days

2nd gtr - it was out when i got it.... the motor has now died however the issues arnt directly related

3rd gtr - its in and staying in as long as i have it

i guess i just mean, taking it out will give notable gains, i wasnt really concerned of the risks when i did it because i didnt add up the costs etc.. also in a HPI mag i saw a write up on how to get more power from a gtr, they did it to there gtr and the results sucked me in

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88092-boost-restrictor/#findComment-1592804
Share on other sites

can u put it back in if u remove it????

lol :lol:

i just had a huge argument with a couple of people about this sort of thing..

see thread> why was my GTR running so much boost. mainly the last page!! :P

ps. for temporary solution disconnecting the hose the the boost solenoid will result in running stock boost (if no boost controller is installed)

now i have started it here! :lol: sorry guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88092-boost-restrictor/#findComment-1602632
Share on other sites

my turbos have run over 40,000ks, a few track days at 1-1.1bar boost making 260rwkw. I'm back down to 0.7bar now for unrelated reasons, and its so slow!

But it is luck of the draw, some turbos may die at 1bar, some may last forever.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88092-boost-restrictor/#findComment-1602783
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it.  I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000.  My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+.  Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive
    • Ah yep. The main message I want to pass on is, try not to get scared of ghosts when thinking about knock/knock detection.  What I mean is, healthy engines make noise. Knock is also noise. Your knock sensor and ECU combo are trying to determine bad noise from good noise based on how loud the noise is. The factory knock sensors and ECU are not good at doing this.  Modern ECU's are pretty decent at it, however I'd still say that you would want to verify that if your ECU says it's knock, that you actually listen to it and confirm that it is correct.  Are you familiar with the plex knock monitor?  https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor-v3/ I expect you're the type of person that would be very keen to play with something like this. It is great knock detection and you can pop some headphones on and listen to what's going on.  Knock that you've deliberately induced in low load low RPM areas is not really putting anything at risk and is a great tuning/learning/verification tool.  I just thought this was worth mentioning based on the way you were talking about setting up a base map and the Haltech base map settings. There are better ways to spend your time then chasing ghosts and worrying about detonation in scenarios that it is crazy unlikely to encounter it.  I was also wondering, what ECU are you planning to get? Will it be long til you pick it up?
    • This came quicker than I thought. It ain't even 2025 yet.
    • I somehow quoted my post instead of editing it. I regret nothing.
    • STOP GOOGLING FAB9 MAKE BORG WARNER EFR KITS FOR THE NC. THEY PACKAGE AN EFR 6758. DO NOTHING ELSE. CAPS INTENTIONAL. THE BEST RESPONSIVE SETUP EXISTS FOR YOUR CAR, AND HAS BEEN PROVEN FOR QUITE SOME TIME NOW. IN B4 "BUT I WANT EVEN MORE RESPONSE, IN A SIMPLER, MORE RELIABLE PACKAGE" WHICH IS A LS.
×
×
  • Create New...