Jump to content
SAU Community

94 180sx Big Power, Looks, Featured @ Autosalon


ABTO
 Share

Recommended Posts

For sale: 1994 Nissan 180sx

Kilometer's: 120,000 but new engen with 80,000km

Manual or Automatic transmission: Manual

Engine Type: SR20DET 2.0 RED TOP ***

Crash History: No Accident History - Inspection Welcome

Contact detail's Pm me or Email [email protected]

The car has been serviced at regular intervals. I have heaps of receipts of work done to it. Including rebuilt gearbox, new heavy duty clutch etc.

Now has colour coded mirrors Gray not Black! Body is mint. Drivetrain is mint

Ineteror:Kenwood Double din MD/CD, JL audio 6" speakers in the doors with tweaters and cross overs all properly custom fitted as the origional speaker holes were to small. Coustom Red and cream suede and coustom speaker holes.

Interior: Digital climate control, Aircond, Power steering, White Gauges, Boost Gauge, Grex Gear Knob, Central locking and 3 point immobliser by "Code Alarm" made in the USA.

Exterior: Darkest legal tint metal film, Vertex rear bar, vertex side skirts, C West front bar, Sun roof, 17inch Advantek Chrome Alloys called "Blade" has lock nuts, 2 new front goodyear eagle F1's and Proper rear semi-track tyres by Kumho, Clear front parkers and vx clear side indicators, Type X wing.

Mods: Large 550 by 300 Front mount intercooler, Garrett 25/35 rollerbearing turbo, Stainless steel extractors been Ceramic Coated, Stainless 3 inch dump pipe and front pipe with a high flow cat and then goes to 4inch stainless into Apexi cannon muffler. All exhaust system is mandrel bent. Nismo 555cc injectors, 500hp internal fuel pump, KN airfilter where old factory intercooler was. So it dosent suck in hot enginebay heat. Unchip piggyback ECU with boost module so can use factory boost solenoid. Autometer Boost gauge. Blitz power meter, Code alarm. Quick shift been fitted to gearbox. HKS SSQV blow off valve. Oil Catch Can with Level gauge not vented into atmosphere so its not illegal. Cusco handbrake button

Stanless steal manifolde from Drift motor sport. Strut Brace++++ lots more just dont have time to list every thing.

Have Dyno sheet for 236kws or 320hp at rear wheels but have now had it taken down to 180rwk.

Drives nicely brakes, steering, clutch are excellent.

I have all recipts of work done and have compliance papers

Car was enterd in Melbourne Auto salon 2005

Also have a spare Garret GT25 roller bearing turbo which has been highflowed which i might be willing to chuck in.

Pictures:

Front- http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...e=post&id=15252

interior1- http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...e=post&id=15249

interior2- http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...e=post&id=15250

Autosalon- http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...e=post&id=15762

Rear- http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...e=post&id=15834

PRICE DROP!!!! $16,000

Edited by ABTO
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What makes you say CD009 boxes are not as strong as you would think? I've always been told the last revision (CD00A) is good for 1000whp and I have no issue's believing it when comparing one side by side with an RB25 box. Makes them look tiny. 
    • I picked up an open Center with shafts. I was told the Open shafts will fit a mechanical LSD and looking at them. I think they will work. Will update 
    • The manual says a lot about the different ratios requiring different shafts. all the Centers are the same but depending on the ratio, this determines the shafts because different ratios need the center to be offset more or less or right to left.
    • those 2 sets of shafts will not interchange and if you’re lucky you haven’t damaged anything with all your pressing and bashing you said you’ve done 
    • Freshly built stroked RB25/28. Motor runs great but consumes a lot more oil then It should. This summer with the heat I was consuming roughly a quart per 1800-2000kms. Now with the cold weather coming in, I'm consuming a quart per 1000kms which is no bueno. I had originally chalked this out to break in taking a little longer then it should, but I'm now around 4000km's on this engine. I think it's fair to say something isn't quite right. Here's the kicker, can't find what's causing it. I've also spoken to my engine builder and Precision Turbo and can't figure it out. Here's my train of thought on possible causes and what I've done.  Precision Turbo - I originally started thinking my oil pressure might be a tad too high for my 6466 Gen2. I took the center cartridge out, and while yes there's signs of oil on the turbine heatshield, it's very moderate. There's also very minor in/out play that concerns me. I sent pictures and videos to precision and they said the residue and in/out play is minimal and they doubt this is the issue. For piece of mind, I went ahead and installed a Turbosmart OPR V2 to bring oil pressure down. Made no difference. Precision is willing to take it in on RMA for an inspection and I'll probably take them up on that offer for peace of mind. BTW. Is it just me or does the turbines inducer's look clipped and not even between each other? I just noticed this now while posting and looking at the picture zoomed in. Might just be the picture...  Rings - Hot compression test and leak down test look good. Compression is 160 +-2psi across the board. I leak down at 16% on cyl 1,2,3,5,6 and 18% on cyl4. Keep in mind I have a snap on leak down tester and they read high (I.E, 15% on my wifes 2018 Sentra with 70000kms). Sparkplugs show minimal oil (Only #4 seems to have a tad). At a quart per 1000km's though, I would be expecting them to be wet. Here's the kicker, I run WMI. I'm thinking what if my compression rings are great, but I have an oil control ring issue on cyl4 and my WMI is steam cleaning the pistons and sparkplugs? I can still see the "Spool" logo on top of my CP pistons. The only time I see smoke out of the exhaust is in the high rpm/load range. So far, this is my main culprit. I'll probably turn off my WMI and go out with the car at spring pressure tomorrow and repull the plugs. Other thing that's strange though is that I have never seen any oil in my catch can. Thing is still dry after 4000kms. Cyl1 - Left, Cyl6 - Right. Valve seals - They're new and I would expect oil consumption on idle, first cold start or during decel. None of which is happening.  Crankcase pressure - I have 2x 10an valve cover lines to a vented catch can. Head drain and opened up internal oil drain paths. I also don't run E85. I've never seen any oil in my catch can. Doubtful this is causing any issues.  Rear main seal - I have no visible leaks, but figured maybe it was my rear main seal. After now having added 2-3 quarts, I would expect oil to leak out the bottom drain channel and/or my clutch to be slipping.  Let me know your thoughts. With winter coming and taking the car off the road until spring, I'm fine with pulling the motor apart but I would hate to take it all apart and the turbo was the issue in the end.   
×
×
  • Create New...