Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey

I just finished work tonight, and on the way home, for about the first 10mins I dont boot it, and later on when I started to, I wasnt getting any boost... Insted I was getting a strange howling noise, kind of like a vacume cleaner when the turbos are suposed to make boost.... well it sounded like on to me...

My car sounded fine and drove fine apart from having no boost. And because this is my pirde and joy, I didnt want to push it. I was reving out to something like 3500rpm and changing gears.

There was no smoke, but slightly unusual back firing when I put it up a gear to slow down. I was keeping an eye on my oil presure and my temps. they where all fine.

I done a small search, but because of my lack of knowlege on searching (and spelling) I couldnt find much. however... The searches that i did, some people had a similar problems to me. Others sugested a split hose somewhere. Another sugested a blocked cat... :) And me not being a total rev head, I have no idear... thats why I ask.

My GT-R32 is stock... I have an exhaust, pods, boost controler-I think this might have something to do with it cause its prity much broken, I cant turn it down or up. I am also running 1 bar... With worn/broken oil seals on one or both the turbos.

I realy need to try and narow it down because its an absolute bummer. If any one has any idears on what could be causing the problem PLEASE post away.

thanks

JUSTIN.

sounds like exhaust wheel in cat disease, the exhaust wheels have died therefore turbos dont spin quickly therefore no boost. how come you were running 1 bar? just asking for trouble on 15year old stocker turbos

Hey.

My last tune was about 5 months ago, and i asked if it ws possible to tune it to about 90% of what it could handle, just to be on the safe side...

I wasnt expecting this to happen so soon. I have been saving for new turbos, now I have the mone for them, Ill be getting them (GT2860R) but I also wanted to get a PFC before I get the turbos put in... saves the headache, re-tuning, and more money spending...

If this is the case, then Ill leave the car in the back yard for another 2-4 weeks untill have the money... ;)

thanks mate.

JUSTIN

Hi,

If the car is truly 'running normal' apart from no boost, it's not likely to be a boost leak (i.e. you've

most likely broken something). But my R32 only starts making boost at around 3500 RPM; so

look for a leak in the pressurised part of the intake system (follow pipes off turbos, through

intercooler, into plenum checking for leaks all along). The joins are the places to check first.

Regards,

Saliya

Hey.

If there was a boost leak, then wouldnt the car go into LIMP mode? or does that only happen if somthing major is wrong? Ill still check the lines and pluming... well the stuff i can get to.

any more jugestions

Oh yeah. I forgot to add, i noticed that the revs had dropped about 200 a couple of times. if i have a vacume leak, then the revs would go higher right? what happens if you have a boost leak?

thanks

JUSTIN

The fact there is a howling noise suggests the turbos are doing SOMETHING, so maybe a leak. When my cat got hungry and started eating exhaust wheels, there was no difference between when the turbos should and should not have been making boost, cause it was just plain NA the whole time. Really gotta check the cooler pipes and stuff for a leak somewhere. Then again, besides the bit where you said makes a noise when should be on boost... everything else says the cat probably does have something in its belly....

Good luck with the new turbos...

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi.

I havent done much with my car in the last week or so. Ive been in SA, I bought some Garrett GT2860R while I was on holidays too. :)

The other day I took my air pods off and in the duckting on the last one there was a fair amount of oil, from my broken oil seals on the turbo. And I was wondering that mabe, just mabe, my air mass meeter might be cloged with oil and the boost (under load) is being let out the BOVs because it cant sence whats happening....

If this may sound right, let me know... If this also sounds like a heep of sh!t let me know too.

Thanks

JUSTIN

from what you said, oil seals going/oil in intake pipes means that your problem can definately be narrowed down to your turbos. imho from your description, their dead. like others have stated, check the cat for any bits and pieces.

just now when I started my car up to hear if there is any noise from a leak any where (and so the battery doesnt die), I put my palms over where the pods go to see if mabe one turbo was sucking more than the other (like what "psybic" said mabe the cat ate the exhaust wheal) and they both gave a prity good sucking feeling... :) But I will check the cat when I get off these stupid night shifts.

Im starting to think about leaving the car in the back yard, caving and then buying a Power FC and cam gears, putting the car on the back of a truck and putting it in at Racepace or ICE.

Why do these jap cars have to be so cool and be head ache at the same time...

1. Exhaust wheels in the cat, its new turbo time.

2. You've blown off an intercooler pipe somewhere

I had an intercooler pipe blow off before, then the car went into limp mode, that scared the hell out of me cause I only had the car for about 3 months - I fixed that a few days later when I had time. So I am starting to think that cant be it.

As for the exhaust wheel in the cat... I am going to have a look on thursday and see if there is anything in there.

This may sound a little stupid... But when I take out the cat, is it going to be realy obvious that was the problem? And Ill have huge pieces of ceramic exhaust wheel falling out? Or would it have all turn to dust with small chunks and have pieces of the cat stuffing missing?

...Or all of the above?

Also, while the cat is out, I have read about people gutting their cat with a pipe slamed straight through it. The pipe was then removed of course, but insted of having a massive # like pattern, there was a huge hole in it... Is this safe to do?

(Apparently there is alot less restriction from the exhaust, and sounds alot better too)

Thanks

JUSTIN

Obviously there would be less restriction but its also highly illegal.

If your going to do it I would suggest welding a pipe through the cat body (so as to make it straight through) and not get bigger, then smaller again. Keep the cat body there so that it at least looks like you have a cat :P

Well I took out the cat. Nothing... The exhaust and cat was as black as the back of my arse, but there wasnt any sign of exhaust wheel inside there. So now I am starting to think that I do have a split pipe or hose somehere. This is going to sh!t me to tears trying it.

Just a quick question, what happens if you turbo is ceased?

thanks

JUSTIN.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Also had a look at the Nissan JP website looks like the 400r has a slightly shorter ratio than than the regular V37 3.133 VS 2.937 which from a guy who has driven both 3.69 vs 4.11 ratios in the S15 is bugger all. Seems that the AUTO Z runs the same ratio as the 400R but can't find any info as to if its an open or LSD? More often than not the auto LSD is open
    • Do not replace the power steering lines with this stuff. If it's anything like the Chase Bays stuff it will leak and be worse than stock. The reason why the reservoir is on the LH/passenger side of the car is because that's just where the reservoir was most convenient to fit. Don't overthink this stuff. The intake/cold side of the engine is pretty busy on these cars. And again, the hardpipe is designed to be a janky power steering cooler. In theory you can replace it with a real power steering cooler but that's really only for track use where boiling the fluid is a distinct possibility. Start with the low pressure lines feeding the pump from the reservoir. Make sure there isn't a bunch of junk in the reservoir filter. Be careful to not get ATF all over the engine bay. I hate dealing with ATF spills, you can clean it up and the slightest crevice will still release more oil that can still drip over time. You also want to inspect for leaks before you make a mess and can't tell what happened. Most likely you have a leak somewhere that is allowing fluid out and air in. Failing that it's allowing air in but not fluid out. Only place I can really see that happening is on the low pressure side because the pump will pull a slight vacuum to draw fluid in. Everything after the pump is high pressure or lower pressure, approaching atmospheric by the time it returns to the reservoir.
    • I did a skidpan night at SMSP this week, it was much cheaper than $350. But yeah, you need to slap an LSD in that thing.  I put an OS Giken in the 370Z and it's f**king MARVELOUS even compared to Nissan's viscous LSD. So you're saying it's free now that it's a housing estate? 😂
    • Nah, the car seems to run exactly as it did prior, in saying this it does "seem" to be better down low, like more eager to rev, but that may be 100% placebo effect from intake noise But, I'm not worried about it at all, in the end it is a fairly low compression NA engine that has a well shrouded intake,  if it is getting hotter IAT I cannot notice anything negative performance wise from the seat of my pants thrashing it about on the street or sitting in traffic, so meh, car now now makes induction noise so I'm happy
    • Do you have an IAT sensor? It's worth checking it to see. You may be suprised how little gap you actually need to flood your engine with hot air. (I tape up my airbox for a reason) :p
×
×
  • Create New...