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Gees , finally catch up and everyone shoots thru.

Ohh well , will be back on later and yes Paul , I could prolly put the Race R in the salon thingy but I will be driving it , not you or shuto boy. Hehehe.

Hopefully will have the AP 6 spots on by then and will definitely have the Autronics and 581's on .

Btw , will be patchy with posting over the next week cos am doing funeral arrangements.

Niz , is your car any better or worse or the same ?

Cheers

Ken

ken car is better - there is still a problem but its not shuddering as much in idle now - just seems slightly more of a slug thats all - but its cool will tide me over til next service which is due middle of this month anyway. :P thanks heaps for ur help

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  • Latest Posts

    • Ah right that makes sense.
    • The RPM is just a target, the ECU will adjust things to try and hit that target but it's by no means guaranteed. If the IACV duty cycle is 0 or something like that and it's actually closing up fully then the idle is as low as it can physically go without reducing ignition timing. The problem can be something like the cold start valve in the IACV not closing fully, worn throttle shaft seals, torn rubber diaphragm in the brake booster allowing unmetered air, etc. 
    • Apexi, though I'm not comfortable with setting the idle, knowing me I'll f**k it up lol.
    • What ECU is on your car @silviaz? You can just change the idle target table yourself and the IACV duty cycle. Noting that if you play around with the screw you'll also need to revisit the idle base duty table as you will end up offsetting the lot. Another reason why DBW is superior, there's less mucking about.
    • Yep. Saw that on the image above but, wonder if it makes more sense to clean out the iacv because let's say in theory mine is dirty and if I clean it the rpm will drop. If I first go to my tuner to drop the rpm and then go to clean my iacv won't it drop further or is the rpm a fixed number?
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