Jump to content
SAU Community

Whoretown WA


skyzerr33
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 103.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • GTS-t VSPEC

    20904

  • Nizmo

    13582

  • SHUTO-BOY

    6636

  • skyzerr33

    5353

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You've given zero info about your setup. Step 1: make sure all the standard equipment are working as they should. If they're not, go investigate why. Step 2: Make sure all your wiring is done properly. Know which RB20 you have, most likely "silvertop" a.k.a R32/A31 anything after 1989. Step 3: make sure your ECU is tuned properly. Standard will barely run in this situation.
    • Depending on your use case, prop valve will almost always be a better choice.
    • I think... in the US, Silvermax is the equivalent of BC Racing, i.e. cheap Taiwanese built suspension that gets turned for "local" conditions. Back in the day in Australia, you could get MCA street for about $1300 and they were awesome. Don't know about now... In saying that, my real world TEIN experience: I got some street basis z for my old Liberty (BR9), and they were awesome ($800-odd delivered from demon-tweeks in the UK). so Don't discount TEIN
    • yeah my RedBull X2010 on Grand Valley is only good enough for bronze... I can't hit silver arrgh.
    • 100% this. Long ago, I had a guy from the R31 club who set my BNR32 up (adjustable arms all round). He did an awesome job, was an after-work kinda thing where I had to bring a slab of beer. My car never drove better, and I stupidly got a random tyre shop to check the toe angles when I changed tyres, and they ruined the alignment. tl:dr- it takes a lot of skill to set up your car lowered from factory properly, and is worth paying the $200+ it takes.
×
×
  • Create New...