Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 103.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • GTS-t VSPEC

    20904

  • Nizmo

    13582

  • SHUTO-BOY

    6636

  • skyzerr33

    5353

ok - as pm'ed to Sydneykid:

Firstly, I will describe my car:

Series1 R33 GTS25t

Mods:

HKS EVC4

3" Turbo back zorst

CAI pod filter

NGK coppers @ 0.788gap

Cleaned induction system - AFM, TB etc.....

Ok, when boosting at 3000rpm/0.82bar i get a slight ping, only audible between those concrete barriers on the highway. I turned it down to 0.76bar and its ok. Whats causing the ping at low rpm? I've done a search on SAU and can't really find any specific info applicable to me. The problems i can think of are:

1. Dirty injector(s)

2. Tired fuel pump

(dont think it the first two coz it seems to be ok up high @ 0.76bar)

3. Turbo is getting hot at those low rpms (fix with FMIC)

4. Just bad fueling/timing coz of stock ECU (temp. patch with adjusting the CAS or get an SAFC as a temp. fix)

5. Blow by gasses leaning it out?

6. Try a colder plug (what do you reccomend for my application)

Could I just reset the ECU so it will learn the increased air flows?

Ross, Are you 100% it's a ping? I run BCP7ES plugs, there a heat range colder than the 6's, gapped to 0.7mm. Stock pump could be going, but you'd expect it to happen under full-load. Might be worth getting injetors flow-tested. Blow-by is more likely to happen at high-rpm.

I'd get it on a dyno, and make sure that it is a ping, then look at the AFR's there the most likely indicators:D

Thats the only time it audible - when the sound bounced off a wall. What else could it be? I think your suggestion for a dyno si the best, that way I can see EXACTLY what the problem is. Hate to buy an FMIC and find out it was just a dirty injector eh.....

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dort sounds above 3k rpm are dorty 🤣 I might krinkle black the alloy 🤔
    • It makes you wonder, all these people starting to make a billet replacement head, I wonder if any have thought about trying to adapt tech from newer engines into them. You're already at the full design stage to make a billet head... Why not really spice it up and had some more modern tech into the mix too...
    • Connect all the plumbing up properly. The actual worst part about having the turbo unable to actually build boost, is you can and likely would over soon the turbo if you drove the car (free rev while stationary isnt likely to manage it).   If you do have an air leak as Duncan suggested, you'll have a bad time as the AFM will be saying different to reality.   As you have had the engine out, I'd go over all electrical connections again. If you have a consult cable, plug it in, and see what the ECU thinks is going on. Did you touch the timing belt? If so, double check your timing on the gears is correct AND put a timing light on it while it's idling and see what ignition setting you have. Is the AFM you've installed the one that was in the car previously? You said you replaced seals, what seals exactly? What have you had apart?   From memory when I had my RB25DET with factory throttle, there was two plugs the TPS plug on the loom could go to. One would leave the car running like shit, the other made it work, I think one plug on the TPS area was for something else (an option). It's too many years since I saw that part of the loom to remember properly though.   Is the car idling smooth (as smooth as an RB can)? Does it smell fuelled up?   I have a feeling either timing in timing belt is off, or a sensor isn't right.
    • Theres still skid pan and motokhana days up in QLD at least that are $100 or less. The ones that are ran as "driver training" less so, they're expensive, but just normal skid pan days like SAU ran are still low cost. And thats one of the places I learned to be a lariken, purely by asking for passenger rides, and how people were doing crazy things. Reese gave me plenty of pointers back in the day for skid pan! And yes Duncan, I will never forget your pointers for track work. Especially after Neil got out saying "I am NEVER getting in the car with him again!" 😛
    • 49719 is the cooler loop. Right at the front, LHS of that diagram. Return line from rack (LP side) goes to cooler loop on RHS front of car, then back under engine and returns to bottom of tank. 49717M is feed from tank to pump. HP line out of pump is thick rubber, followed by the hard line that runs down to crossmember and runs in parallel (but opposite flow direction) to the LP return line. Nothing goes anywhere near the firewall or interior of car. The closest they get to that is the connections on the rack.
×
×
  • Create New...