Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 103.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • GTS-t VSPEC

    20904

  • Nizmo

    13582

  • SHUTO-BOY

    6636

  • skyzerr33

    5353

Originally posted by gen180

hah! must be an ex Trev. a bit like the skylines with monster tacho's and shift lights and the only mod is an exhaust

Yeah bit like 180's where their only mod is a giant blow off valve :D

sorry just had a few teeny boppers in here lately that are more interested in rice than performance .... it gets annoying with all the questions about neons and gauges and paint jobs :D

Since 1912 the spark ignition internal combustion engine's compression ratio had been constrained by the unwanted "knock" that could rapidly destroy engines. "Knocking" is a very good description of the sound heard from an engine using fuel of too low octane.

^maybe Adrians knocking sound is from dirty fuel?

To obtain the maximum energy from the gasoline, the compressed fuel-air mixture inside the combustion chamber needs to burn evenly, propagating out from the spark plug until all the fuel is consumed. This would deliver an optimum power stroke. In real life, a series of pre-flame reactions will occur in the unburnt "end gases" in the combustion chamber before the flame front arrives. If these reactions form molecules or species that can autoignite before the flame front arrives, knock will occur [21,22].

Not if you are meeting the octane requirement of the engine. If you are not meeting the octane requirement, the engine will rapidly suffer major damage due to knock. You must not use fuels that produce sustained audible knock, as engine damage will occur. If the octane is just sufficient, the engine management system will move settings to a less optimal position, and the only major penalty will be increased costs due to poor fuel economy. Whenever possible, engines should be operated at the optimum position for long-term reliability. Engine wear is mainly related to design, manufacturing, maintenance and lubrication factors.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you are fine with China turbos, Maxpeedingrods makes a bolt on turbo. Ive had mine for two summers now and it seems to be holding up ok. 
    • Howdy all Im in a little predicament and wondering what everyone’s thoughts are? I’ve had my long block rebuilt and am in the market for a turbo due to my old one having metal shavings from crank bearings (cause of rebuild) go throughout the turbos oil lines and there wheel has a little play. I’m not really aiming for any power, just trying to keep it as oem as possible, but I can’t find a turbo that’s built for the stock ecu or find something that would be a standard replacement. Anyone have any ideas or suggestions 
    • How's everyone going? Just a shout-out introducing myself. I'm James, I live on the north side of Brisbane. I bought an R33 that had been left to rot in someone's front yard for 14 years. Apparently, it has immobiliser/fuel issues. Long story short, it's suffering from a seized engine, plus whatever else turns up once it runs. The car is pretty good considering it sat for so long. It pretty much died after being imported. It has a bunch of Jap parts and a full Top Secret body kit. It's painted Fiat Turchese Festival, or aqua blue if you're not French. Another project to throw money at!
    • So the clockspring is responsible for the indicators cancelling on their own? I thought that was the function of that white thing in the center (any idea what it's called?)
    • Can you log IAT? Whilst WTA coolers have their place, doing any sort of sustained run is not one of them There are fixes that slow down the heat soak, like ice boxes, which don't last that long, and interchillers, which are fairly expensive, up grades to the WTA cooling radiator, which may require a bigger pump, and upgrades to the reservoir size,  and upgrades to the cooling fans, but, it all still heat soaks, and takes ages to come down in hot weather  For a turbo, that isn't locked into WTA like my PD blower is, can you not possibly swap to a nice air to air intercooler????, it would be better for sustained runs then, and have alot less things that could go wrong in my opinion 
×
×
  • Create New...