Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Originally posted by Micko

Ken - my car is making 264rwhp (2wd) on steve's dyno before it hits the speed cut at around 6900rpm.

Basically as gav said he hasn't picked up much more power with the PFC he is using now - but I'm sure that will change.

I got 220 at all 4 with 1 bar on Hendos and 260 at 1.2 bar ( I think). That was on std puter and it ran fine.

So the reason it makes more power in the Mines is the lack of speed cut allows a higher rev ?

To see if there is any advantage , see what it gets at 6900rpm.

Cheers

Ken

  • Replies 103.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • GTS-t VSPEC

    20904

  • Nizmo

    13582

  • SHUTO-BOY

    6636

  • skyzerr33

    5353

Originally posted by Micko

Ken - wtf is 1.5 or 2 way - I'm sure I should know, but can ya tell me anyway:)

Not 100% but 1.5 supposedly locks under power and unlocks on coast ( ie lifting off around a corner. )

2 way locks on power and coast and opens at neutral throttle.

Cheers

Ken

Nice...diffs sound good.

I am going to plug the puter into my car & test it out. The deal atm is $200 exchange with my standard one. It's gotta be better I would think, but I will make sure.

Even though I don't know gav very well, I feel confident that if things weren't right he wouldn't hang me out to dry.

Originally posted by Micko

Nice...diffs sound good.

I am going to plug the puter into my car & test it out. The deal atm is $200 exchange with my standard one. It's gotta be better I would think, but I will make sure.

Even though I don't know gav very well, I feel confident that if things weren't right he wouldn't hang me out to dry.

Nah , would be cool .

Cheaper than paying for a speed cut but be aware that some of the Jap chips are a bit aggressive with the timing and our third world octane fuel.

Cheers

Ken

Ken - if youre still there...

A mate is gonna make me some front pipes on sat. Gonna cost me for the stainless piping (should get change from $100) & a bottle of the sphincter of the universe. Making 2.5" to 3". Interesting to see if there is any improvement, but for that price it's gotta be good value:uh-huh:

Originally posted by Micko

Ken - if youre sttill there...

A mate is gonna make me some front pipes on sat. Gonna cost me for the stainless piping (should get change from $100) & a bottle of the sphincter of the universe. Making 2.5" to 3". Interesting to see if there is any improvement, but for that price it's gotta be good value:uh-huh:

Me thinks without the dumps , it's gonna be very marginal.

Make sure you give him the the sphincter of the universe AFTER the job.:D

Btw , R33 GTR dumps are bigger and flow better than R32 GTR dumps.

useless fact 1

Cheers

Ken

Originally posted by Micko

BTW Ken - what turbos were you running at 1 bar or higher?

Thought you said that was too much for the standard jobbies?

Gav is running 1 bar at the moment - I wouldn't mind doing the same.

Hendo was doing his usual more is better.

I said that now you have had a play , turn the wick down cos they is only std.

Cheers

ken

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They are what I will be installing. 640s for me.
    • Hmm... From my experience you get about 0.25° camber change per mm of RUCA length change. So, to correct from -2.5 up to less than -1° (or, more than -1° if you look at the world as a mathematician does) then you'd be making 6-8mm of length change on the RUCA. From a stock length of 308mm, that's 2-2.5% difference in RUCA length. My RUCAs are currently very close to stock length - certainly only 2-3mm different from stock. I had to adjust my tension arms by 6mm to minimise the bump steer. That's 6mm out of 210, which is 2.8%. That's a 2.8% change on those, compared to a <1% change on the RUCAs. So the stock geometry already has worse bump steer than is possible - you can improve it even if you don't change the RUCA length. If you lengthen the RUCAs at all, then you will definitely be adding bump steer. Again, with my car, I recently had an unpleasant amount of bump steer, stemming from a number of things that happened one after another without me having an opportunity to correct for them. I only had to change the tension arm lengths by 1mm to minimise the resulting bump steer. (Granted, I also had to dial out a lot of extra toe-in in the rear, and excessive rear toe-in will make bump steer behaviour worse). Relatively tiny little adjustments having been made - the car is now completely different. Was horrifying how much it wanted to steer from the rear on any significant single wheel bump/dip. And it was even bad on expansion joints on long sweepers on freeway entry/exits, which are notionally hitting both rear wheels at the same time. My point is, the crappy Nissan multilink is quite sensitive to these things (unlike the very nice Toyota suspension!). And I think 99.75% of Skyline owners are blissfully ignorant of what they are driving around on. Sadly, it is a non-trivial exercise to set up to measure and correct bump steer. I am happy to show my rig, which involves nasty chunks of wood bolted to the hub, mirrors, lasers, graph paper targets and other horrors. Just in case anyone wants to see how it is done. I'll just have to set it up to take the photos.
    • What do you have in that bad boy ? Ill go with the 725cc since I'll be going with Nistune ( would definitely like more engine protection but Haltech is too far out of reach at the moment... plus, Ill probably have a pretty safe tune as its a daily, not gonna be chasing peak power 24/7 ahahah ). Are Xspurt a safe choice?  Pete's great. He didnt mention anything about traction arm length so I reckon it may be good. When I get some new wheels/tire later down the road I'll ask him about it and get his opinion on em. I heard from Gary that you've got the bilsteins too, are you running the sway bars too? and what other suspension goodies do you have installed or would recommend?
    • In true Gregging style...  
×
×
  • Create New...