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true - just get fustrated when the govt takes $120 of my pay every week!!

I dont like to be part of catfights - actually never been part of a catfight. Just like to watch haha

Weekend was brillant Zanda - best ive had in a while!!

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    • Ohh even easier.   Go dial up 700rpm on the hand controller. Rip off the TPS plug, wait till the idle drops and then adjust the IACV screw so it's just a tad below the target on the hand controller (say 650rpm), plug the TPS back in and idle will climb back to target. Done.
    • Hey Sleepergm, I love your inlet piping, do u mind sharing who did the work, please? cheers, Ian
    • Yeah, you want the IACV to be running at around 30 "units", variously called "steps" or "duty cycle" depending on the person. That gives it room to go lower if need be and higher ditto.
    • Ah right that makes sense.
    • The RPM is just a target, the ECU will adjust things to try and hit that target but it's by no means guaranteed. If the IACV duty cycle is 0 or something like that and it's actually closing up fully then the idle is as low as it can physically go without reducing ignition timing. The problem can be something like the cold start valve in the IACV not closing fully, worn throttle shaft seals, torn rubber diaphragm in the brake booster allowing unmetered air, etc. 
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